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This thread is privately moderated by VicT, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Aug 27, 2019, 11:51 PM
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Removing a jammed nut and collet

I like my new EC1500 but do not want to lose the 5 bladed prop and spinner in flight. The loss of control and crash into someone/something concerns me. Last week the right prop , spinner, and collet departed the motor shaft while I was applying full power on 4 S while on the ground. I had about 10 minutes of scale like flying two days before with no problems. Apparently that 10 minutes was enough to reduce the grip between the aluminum collet and steel motor shaft. I remounted the undamaged prop and re tightened the nut a little more than what I usually tighten and put a 4S and then a 3S flight in. On the post flight I found I could tighten the nut a little more so I did but then I felt less resistance. I tried to unscrew the nut but it had jammed on the aluminum collet threads. I made a slot on the end of the collet and with a screw driver was able to keep the shaft from turning while freeing the jammed nut. After the nut was removed I was able to remove the prop. I have not flown the EC 1500 since as I am waiting for collets (not Horizon/Eflite) that are bigger like the Timber, SR22 and other Eflite collet adapters. Horizon sent me some Zap Z-42 thread locker however I still do not know how much torque to apply without jamming the nut. I could measure with a torque wrench the foot pounds required to jam and damage the threads on a new collet and nut and use that for a reference or go to a different collet that has more surface area like the Timber and SR 22 collet adapters. To remove the prop Horizon recommends using a soldering iron to heat up the nut and threads to break the thread locker bond. Here is what I will be using:

I removed the plastic nacelle to see what could be used to restrain the motor and its shaft and found that the front cooling openings can be used with a tool inserted. The windings are not touched. The bottom of the plastic nacelle must be relieved for the tool to be inserted into the motor cooling slot. Initially I used a 1/8 inch thick piece of hard wood. This was better than using one finger on the motor thru the nacelle opening. But the wood was not strong enough. I looked around for some 1/8 thick metal and found an old aluminum motor mount that fit perfectly. I cut the two arms off that were not needed and now have a tool to use. A steel tool would be stronger and better. A 6 inch long bar with a slight bend would be ideal. See pics
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