Thread Tools
Oct 13, 2019, 08:44 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Got up my nerve and started covering the stab.To start with, I set the iron on 1.25. That's pointed right at the screw head. When it's warmed up for about 5 min. it sticks solartex with minimum shrinking.
First I lay the covering in place and since it's undercambered, I start off by tacking it down at each end of the spar. Then I slide the iron from the spar towards the LE, then TE making sure it's pressed firmly to the ribs. Then I move the heat up to 1.75 and press the covering to the ribs again, this time getting some shrinkage. Finally I go around the edges and then trim away the excess.
After about half an hour of cooling, I tap on the covering from the top to make sure it's stuck to the ribs well.
As the last pic shows, it's kind of lumpy but seem appropriate for this era.

Covering the top may get interesting...
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Oct 14, 2019, 08:40 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
First I cut two square pieces of covering and ironed them to the planking in front of and back of the horn assy as I was pretty sure there were going to be gaps.
Then.
I laid the covering over the top of the stab and marked where the control horn touched it.
then I cut a letter H shaped slot to fit over the horn assy.
Then.
I made a slit over each of the brace bearing tubes.
I tacked down the covering at the ends of the spar and then the four corners.
Then I ironed down the covering around the horn and tubes.
It went pretty well.
Finally, I went around the edges, then shrunk it all down.
Cut around the edges, checked for warps and re-sealed the edges.
Done!
Oct 15, 2019, 07:39 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Glued my zombie pilot to his freshly painted mount with switch.
(he's been painted 3 times since 1988 and shows it)

Rudder's not too hard to cover if you start with the top edge then trailing edge before tackling the curvy edge.

Oct 16, 2019, 10:30 AM
Registered User
I too have a zombie pilot. He even has a 1980's style mullet. Your Bleriot is coming along nicely.
Oct 16, 2019, 01:32 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
after drilling the 1/8" holes for the rigging tabs,
Applied the covering to the wing bottoms in a similar fashion as the stab.
Propped up, the light shows the curve and inevitable bumpiness.
Then I punch thru the rigging holes so I can find them after doing the top
Oct 18, 2019, 07:29 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Despite a raging head cold, I covered the top wings and fitted the rigging screws.

Pic two, all the flying surfaces are covered now.
Next up, finishing the fuselage.
Oct 19, 2019, 02:36 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Got some nice Birchwood/Casey stain and did the fuselage.
As Arup mentioned, it's better to stain the stock before building or else it'll look like pic two.
But if you're a hacker like me, you'll know what to do with the brown and black paint....
Oct 20, 2019, 10:02 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by taildragger1589
Got some nice Birchwood/Casey stain and did the fuselage.
As Arup mentioned, it's better to stain the stock before building or else it'll look like pic two.
But if you're a hacker like me, you'll know what to do with the brown and black paint....
You could tint some clear dope to make a transparent toner.
Oct 20, 2019, 06:41 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
I've always used brown testors tinted with a little black to cover light spots.
Since I always use walnut, I already have the right shade on hand.
but seriously, I'd always used oil based stain before, obviously you can't stain then glue it together.
So I came up with this method.
Now that I know about water based stain, I'll be trying the new way (to me) on the next oldie.

Pic one, light spots covered with brown enamel, gussets covered with black. I'll let them dry for a week, then brush on the spar varnish.

Pic two, fuselage sides covered with solartex.
I didn't cover back as far as most Bleriot builders (two formers aft) because I found some full size Bleriots that only covered to the former just past the wing's TE and liked it better

A note to the real scale builders.
I'm building this kit as a remembrance to the seventies with the semi crude (by today's standards) kits and designs.Not to mention the 10 oz. 3 channel airborne pack, as opposed to a quality scale model.
The original Bleriot did not have gussets per se. just bolts and angles so I just went with what I liked.

more to come.
Oct 21, 2019, 01:30 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Now for the belly rigging posts...
the plans show the post as two "V" shaped wires joined at the apex.
For the life of me, I couldn't think of an efficient way to attach the rigging wires to such an arrangement.
So...
Pics one and two, I bent four wires at the base to go into the holes in the longerons at an angle so that the four crossed tops like a teepee.
If you use this method, it's easier to pre-tin the tops before wrapping with copper wire and soldering.
Anyway, this way the rigging wire can be stretched from one wing to the posts, make a vertical loop arount the crossed tops and on to the other wing. I use nylon coated fishing leader which can be fused after making the loop by holding a lighter under it for a few seconds.

Pics three shows the bottom of the fuselage after a thin coat of slow epoxy to seal/fuel proof the edge of the covering and the landing gear struts re-attached after the epoxy was almost cured.

Oct 22, 2019, 02:47 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Well, now that I have the bottom side details done, I can roll her over and do the top rigging mast.
Pic one shows the three I bent with the K&S wire bender.
Makes it real easy.
The kit had an extra wire in it so I bent three so as to choose the two best ones.

Pic two shows the best two plugged into their sockets that were measured and drilled using the wires as rulers.

Pic three and four show the 3 /16" dowel in place.
First CA'd in place, then wrapped with thread and CA'd again.
Very solid.

Now I'll take the assembly off, won't epoxy it on until after hooking up the servo rods and wires
Last edited by taildragger1589; Oct 22, 2019 at 02:55 PM.
Oct 23, 2019, 01:51 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by taildragger1589
The kit had an extra wire in it so I bent three so as to choose the two best ones.
....and next week, you'll find what that 'extra wire' was actually meant to be for..... and you'll have [email protected] it up
Oct 23, 2019, 01:09 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Murphy's law.
It was the resonation lever for the activation of the sleuthifier.
Oct 24, 2019, 01:20 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
And I thought it would be the flail arm for aligning the treadle....
Oct 24, 2019, 04:12 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
taildragger1589's Avatar
Thread OP
Just goes to show ya how disorientating the amalgam can phosporate.

Now, back to business.
Pic one.
With much trepidation, I applied 30 minute epoxy to the stab mount blocks and set it on the blocked up fuselage.
the white paper is to make it easier to see the wing rods while keeping the stab aligned.
I was also using a thread pinned to the center of the fuselage at the landing gear rear, to make sure the distance at both ends of the spar was equal.

Pic two.
Flipped her over and lay the pushrod in place.
Tied only to the bottom of the tailwheel former at this time.

Pic three.
Tried to wrap the blocks and longerons with thread, but it kept slipping off of the blocks
should have made the blocks longer and maybe roughed them up more.
So, I got out that handy 6" drill bit I used on the motor mount and drilled the stab mount for pinning with epoxy and toothpicks.

Pic four.
cut the four toothpicks off flush with the top of the longeron.
cut a piece of bamboo skewer to length and tied the end of the pushrod sleeve to it, then epoxied the whole thing in place.

Pic five.
secured the pushrod sleeve with thread at the bottom of the fuselage formers.



Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help! Bleriot Royal Kit 1/6 Scale - NEW VIDEO! Flying Great! jodini Glow to Electric Conversions 74 Jun 08, 2015 05:30 PM
Discussion Royal Products 1910 Bleriot Kit 4Pedalsfly Glow to Electric Conversions 2 Feb 05, 2013 05:10 PM
Discussion Royal Bleriot williame3590 Scale Fuel Planes 13 Jan 26, 2010 11:35 AM
Question Royal Products Bleriot bandvhartford Scale Kit/Scratch Built 4 May 17, 2008 12:15 PM
Help! Royal Products Bleriot bandvhartford Glow to Electric Conversions 0 May 09, 2008 12:26 PM