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Feb 02, 2020, 09:51 PM
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Aeromister's Avatar
Great building thread. I have admired OSM kits since I saw them at Toledo. I caught the Javelin YouTube video and just had to have one . I bought a kit to build this winter. just as soon as I finish up a Telemaster 40. I plan on building mine for glow but I really appreciate the insight and all the pictures. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with us - it's obvious you are a very good builder. The thread is appreciated.
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Feb 02, 2020, 11:59 PM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP
Thanks. I really enjoy doing this. Building is great stress reliever for me. The effort involved focuses my attention and helps me relax.

Today, I spent my modeling time getting the shop organized and converting my work bench from building to covering.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeromister
Great building thread. I have admired OSM kits since I saw them at Toledo. I caught the Javelin YouTube video and just had to have one . I bought a kit to build this winter. just as soon as I finish up a Telemaster 40. I plan on building mine for glow but I really appreciate the insight and all the pictures. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with us - it's obvious you are a very good builder. The thread is appreciated.
Feb 09, 2020, 01:35 AM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP

Covering Time


Some amount of thought should go into covering. Iím using Monokote, my preferred shrink film. I find it usually works best going from bottom to top. Also, for the build, Iím following my usual practice of covering the fuselage and stabilizers separately. Itís just easier.

Since the bottom of the plane will be primarily Orange, so the starting effort is with Orange. It will be Orange to Yellow to Blue.

I like a couple of good books. Tomís Techniques, from Harry Higley, and There Are No Secrets, by Faye Stilley (many time Toledo Weak Signals show champion). Worth getting if you can find one, or both, of them.
Feb 09, 2020, 01:51 PM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP
A Monokote consideration: The books reference the idea that you should shrink the covering over solid surfaces with a heat gun, only permanently attaching at the edges. You need to consider the environment you fly in. Here in Texas, the summers, May - October, are hot. The shrink, don’t adhere approach doesn’t stand up very well.
Feb 09, 2020, 11:45 PM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP

Bottom of Wing


Todayís effort was covering the bottom of the wing.

I measure Monokote for my ease. I donít try to get the most from every roll. Maybe I should butÖ

I show you hemostats for pulling the servo leads out of the wing. I used to have a bunch. When I started building in 2006 after a long layoff dealing with teenagers, they were all gone. HmmmmÖ I picked some more at a model train show.

When I finished, I noted the servo horns I chose stuck out past where the top surface Monokote would be. I removed the horns and will cut off all the arms but the one I use when I set the radio up.
Feb 11, 2020, 12:30 AM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP

Another Pause and Some Thoughts About Covering


Iíve come to another pause. After three plus months of physical therapy to get everything with my shoulder settled down, the MRI says I have a detached bicep and the muscle that goes over the top is only holding on by threads. So tomorrow Iím having shoulder surgery. Iím not sure how long Iíll be paused but I know I have to do this.

Now some thoughts about covering.Ö

Here are four planes from my stable: (see picture below)

1) Sig LT25, built in 2015: this plane is covered with Cub Yellow Monokote. Of my glow planes, this is my go to ride. Iíve got several hundred flights on this plane. It shows some wear and patches (with clear packing tape, no less) but overall itís pretty durable.

2) Goldberg Tiger 2, built in the late Ď90s by my son: The base covering is all Monokote and it has stood up to time pretty well. It is a little brittle but it stands up to flying pretty well. When he built it, we used some Ultrakote for trim. Granted it was fluorescent but it has not held up very well.

3) Balsa USA EIII Eindekker, built from 2006 to 2017: I haves build log for this too. Good thing because I had an 8+ year gap in working on it during a fallow period for modeling. ďWhat was my plan?Ē I thought as I read it. Anyway I got to the covering stage and I used Ultrakote, to my chagrin. Itís probably because I was a routine Monokote user but I just donít like it. I chose it because it had the closest film color to the plane I wanted to model. Good thing I had an excess of rolls because a bunch of it delaminated while in storage in my shop, the same storage where I kept my Monokote (which still works fine). I did get it covered but it isnít as secure as Monokote, I hit all the seams with CA. Itís been way easier to damage than Monokote. I used flat clear sprain paint to get an appropriate look.

4) Sig Kougar MkII, built in 2016: This is a mixed finish system. All the flying surfaces are covered with Money and the fuselage is painted. (I have a build log for this too.) The fuselage is mixed, balsa and plastic (canopy and turtledeck). The balsa is covered with heavy Sig tissue that is doped down with nitrate dope. After a couple of coats of dope, the plastic parts were added and everything was sprayed with Rustoleum white primer. The color paint is also Rustoleum. They offer a lot more colors than any one store will carry. If youíre persistent, you can find matching colors. I had to go to both Loweís and Home Depot for the blue and the yellow colors. Itís a good way to do this.

Anyway, you have a lot of options when you cover a plane. You can use it straight. You can paint it to trim or change a look, itís even a good base if you intend to paint the whole thing. You can use it in a mixed traditional paint and film approach.
Feb 11, 2020, 02:12 AM
Registered User

Covering


Quote:
Originally Posted by GRW3
Todayís effort was covering the bottom of the wing.

I measure Monokote for my ease. I donít try to get the most from every roll. Maybe I should butÖ

I show you hemostats for pulling the servo leads out of the wing. I used to have a bunch. When I started building in 2006 after a long layoff dealing with teenagers, they were all gone. HmmmmÖ I picked some more at a model train show.

When I finished, I noted the servo horns I chose stuck out past where the top surface Monokote would be. I removed the horns and will cut off all the arms but the one I use when I set the radio up.
You coping me? Just kidding, yours looks great!
Feb 13, 2020, 07:13 PM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guinness0424
You coping me? Just kidding, yours looks great!
My orange is on the bottom. Your scheme reminds me of a pre-war Stinson.


My right arm is out of commission for a while.
Feb 23, 2020, 11:51 PM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP

Iím Back!


The Dr took the stitches out Friday. He said the operation was a success, bicep reattached and other muscle attachments repaired. Marching orders were to exercise my arm gently, move side to side, extend it forward but no reaching up. No lifting, pushing or pulling with force. All together, it sounded like permission to start working on the model again.

So the journey continues with additional Yellow Monokote. Iím going to show todayís progress and offer a couple of suggestions about the process.

Next, Yellow Monokote on top of the wing.
Feb 24, 2020, 10:07 PM
UAS Pilot - FAA# *******HRK
CryHavoc's Avatar
Instead of all those little cuts, I like to turn up the heat and stretch the Monokote around. Then turning to the backside, I use the edge of the surface to run the knife along to trim the Monokote flush. A quick pass with the iron along the cut and its sealed down. Usually its hard to even see the seam. The trick is leave enough Monokote to hold onto while stretching.

Mike
Feb 25, 2020, 12:14 AM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by CryHavoc
Instead of all those little cuts, I like to turn up the heat and stretch the Monokote around. Then turning to the backside, I use the edge of the surface to run the knife along to trim the Monokote flush. A quick pass with the iron along the cut and its sealed down. Usually its hard to even see the seam. The trick is leave enough Monokote to hold onto while stretching.

Mike
You can do that but you have to be sure of the structure. Flat built up structures, like these stabilizers, are easier to damage if you are not careful. On a built up piece, like a wing tip, there is more support. You also need a couple of extra hands. With a wing or a fuselage, you can do something like hold the work piece between your legs.

Looking at the top of the wingtips on the Javelin, itís likely it will take some amount of shrink and stretch to do that job.

The feather method is simple and fairly effective. The heat and stretch method makes a better finish but it takes more care and effort.
Mar 15, 2020, 09:05 PM
Modeling Retread
Thread OP

Finish the Yellows


Itís been a while. Working while recovering is a little more tiring. I took a day off to rest and I was rested up enough to take the next step.

Working up to starting the covering today, while listening to a couple of podcasts, I did some servo testing. At a recent swap meet I met a man who used to work with Ace R/C. We were talking about servos and he told me that they found that exercising servos was a must for product quality. He said that a cycling test period of ten minutes was ideal. Based on his experience servos that can be cycled continually for that time without a problem, wonít have a problem in the field. I wanted a servo cycler and tester anyway, so this sounded like a good thing to do. So today I did that testing.

So todayís effort was adding the yellow covering to the top of the wing. Now for my color scheme the yellow doesnít cover the whole wing. It has to go forward enough to cover three of the four bays of the wing tip. Laying Monokote out like this takes a little more care than when it hangs over the edge. Work carefully to make sure the forward part goes on smoothly because the blue has lay over it.

Today I once again used the glass to cut the Monokote, it works so well. I use the weights to hold the straight edge steady. I made sure to have extra material at the wing tip because this one needs the heat gun stretch treatment. To hold the wing steady while doing that, I fold the foam over the wing and use the lead weight to hold it down.


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