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Aug 13, 2019, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by glgirvin
Hi Guys, I have used one or two ways for attaching fittings. If the fitting has a good size surface area, I like to use clear silicone sealer. ( easy to remove if necessary, such as for changing light bulbs)On smaller fittings and attaching window panes, I have found that the Gorilla clear glue works well. I will probably use it for the stanchion post on my 63s for the railing. Thank you,Gary
Thank you for your input. While some of the castings are quite large like the side air scoops, the actual contact area is very small, limited to the edges of the part . I have both the clear Gorilla Glue and some Devcon 2-part epoxy so I will do a little experimenting to see which holds best.
Last edited by Seaview24; Aug 13, 2019 at 07:40 PM.
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Aug 16, 2019, 09:05 AM
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fittings


Hi Seaview24, The original large scoops for the Corvette are thin and flimsy. As per suggestion fro frankg I polished and cut two table spoons to make new ones. as I replied to frankg , My Corvette has two new shiny scoops and the silverware drawer has two less table spoons. Thank you, Gary
Aug 18, 2019, 06:07 AM
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Beautiful looking boat. The spoon idea is genius I may use it someday if the originals don't hold up.
Aug 21, 2019, 05:11 PM
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I run a pittman like yours,it pulls about 3-4 amps each wide open,you dont want to do more than that,the brushes will burn out fast.

I have run mine on 2s lipo,,,,8.4 volts,,,keeping it propped for current. Motor only gets a little warm after a lot of running around.
Aug 24, 2019, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Marked
I run a pittman like yours,it pulls about 3-4 amps each wide open,you dont want to do more than that,the brushes will burn out fast.

I have run mine on 2s lipo,,,,8.4 volts,,,keeping it propped for current. Motor only gets a little warm after a lot of running around.
More good info, thanks. My son and I had the boat running with some modern gear added and I was stunned at how well it performed. We used a 7.2 volt NIMH pack , Turnigy brushed motor controller and a cheap 2.4 G transmitter/receiver and servo kit to try it out. I was worried that the 7.2 volts exceeded the 6 volt rating but kept checking the motors and they never really got warm. We did eventually pop the old glass fuses attached to the motors, one was a 2 amp the other a 3 amp. It ran for a while before this happened so I may try some 3 amp slo-blo on the next voyage.

I went under the assumption that the original owner/builder had positioned the 67-1/2 volt and the other dry cells so they balanced out so we mounted the NIMH pack in the center and the boat sat perfect. This is a boat which I will guess has not seen the water in close to 40 years and I must say it was thrill to see that old girl pull away from the dock under her own power. The drone of those two pittman motors singing in unison inside that wood hull was music to the ears and the thrust of water off the props as I held her back was quite impressive. We had it out and back a half dozen times over the course of two days and it was great fun to watch it operate. We got braver and braver and the last trip I had it almost out of sight before turning around bringing it back. (We had a kayak at the ready just in case we had to retrieve it). This is a large , wide lagoon right off of the open (Barnegat) bay so there's some current and chop from passing boats and it handled it all superbly. After all that running it was bone dry inside with only a drop or two of water out of the prop tubes.

Still have a lot of sorting out to do , I may try a gel type cell for more power storage as long as the weight doesn't upset the balance or attitude of the boat. And I'd like to hide all or most of the modern equipment as was suggested earlier. Overall though I couldn't have been more pleased with how it all went we couldn't stop smiling watching that beautiful old wooden model cruise around.

I will see if I can figure out how to upload a short video. Thanks again for all the help to this point I'm sure I will have more questions.
Aug 24, 2019, 12:56 PM
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It appears we have the same motors,I thought the current draw was what I stated. The fuse popping confirms that.
A 4A fuse would be a good choice, I have run it at 6A for 5 min with some heating up.

You could hide the radio gear in the cardboard battery boxes.....

That boat is big enough for 2- 6volt gell cells,but I use liops and lead weights.
Aug 28, 2019, 12:24 PM
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I was about to advise you to remove the old tube receiver and actuator and install a modern 2.4 Ghz receiver, marine speed control with reverse, brushes motors and servos using an inexpensive 2.4ghz transmitter unless you are fascinated with olde tyme RC gear which is susceptible to glitching and range probems from internally generated motor brush noise and metal on metal contact. There are a lot of electronic gizmos available nowadays to control operating features such as cabin and deck lights, horns, and swiveling search lights, engine sound system, etc

2.4Ghz receivers and their short antennas give best range if mounted as high as possible in the cabin. the old Pittman panther motors should give scale-like speed but need brush motor type speed control(s)
Last edited by E-Challenged; Aug 28, 2019 at 12:30 PM.
Oct 15, 2019, 07:17 PM
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Something interesting I spotted while working on the boat. The original builder had used an old audio jack and socket to make some kind of "quick change" resisitor . It's mounted in the bulkhead just forward of the motors , the positive lead (blue wire) from the 67-1/2 V battery passes through it before conituning on to the tube receiver. I won't even pretend to know exactly what function it serves except that there must have been some benefit in the ability to easily change the resistor value . I think it's ingenious. I'm sure the folks here into the old radio gear will know more.
Last edited by Seaview24; Oct 15, 2019 at 08:22 PM.
Oct 15, 2019, 08:52 PM
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It might have been used to limit the current to the reciever.
Oct 16, 2019, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Marked
It might have been used to limit the current to the reciever.
Yes, just seems like quite a bit of effort put forth to install the socket in the bulkhead, modify the plug, solder in the resistor etc. when it could have easily been soldered inline or to the terminal clip on the receiver base. Still thinking there must be a reason he wanted the ability to swap out the resistor value for another quickly and easily.
Oct 17, 2019, 02:28 PM
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I don't know where it is in the circuit, but as valves age you need to adjust the circuit for optimum performance, and I have seen some early sets with built-in component variation for just this purpose. ...
Oct 17, 2019, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgy
I don't know where it is in the circuit, but as valves age you need to adjust the circuit for optimum performance, and I have seen some early sets with built-in component variation for just this purpose. ...
Very possible. Also wondering if it might be to adjust the resistance as the charge winds down on the 67-1/2 volt battery. I'm assuming those old dry cells were not rechargeble like today's batteries.




.
Last edited by Seaview24; Oct 17, 2019 at 06:01 PM.
Oct 19, 2019, 09:29 AM
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Might be battery...but it's something to do with maintaining the radio circuit in operation in a changing environment.

It might be a component which lowers the sensitivity of the receiver for use in high interference conditions? Back in the day you needed to be very close to the electronics. If you can trace and document the actual circuit, there are people on this forum who can tell you exactly what each component is doing.

As an example of the requirement to alter components frequently, I have copied off a bit of advertising literature from the late 1950s describing a UK system - the ED Bomerang:

"ED Bomerang - the radio set with 5 lives!
......
This revolutionary set provides five different aerial tappings which enable the aerial lead to be matched to the valve., A new valve is worked on the A1 tapping for maximum sensitivity When the required 1.5mA current becomes unobtainable, the A2 tapping will give a further period of sensitivity. This procedure is used progressively through all five stages, thus lengthening the life of the valve by five times.... "
Oct 20, 2019, 02:44 PM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgy
Might be battery...but it's something to do with maintaining the radio circuit in operation in a changing environment.

It might be a component which lowers the sensitivity of the receiver for use in high interference conditions? Back in the day you needed to be very close to the electronics.

.... "[/I]
Dodgy I think you have zeroed in on it or you're very close. There is also a potentiometer installed in the bulkhead next to the "quick-change" diode socket but the pot was never included in the original circuit. May have been his "plan B" if the diode didn't work as intended or as a way of fine tuning the resistance to an even greater degree.

Would have been great to be able to talk with the original builder to know what he was thinking.
Yesterday, 01:58 PM
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If you can get Taurus Flyer interested in the thread I am sure he could tell you just what was going on.... see https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-channel-radio


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