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Oct 11, 2019, 06:37 PM
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Zipman's Avatar
Nice work. Soon it will be standing on the gear.
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Oct 12, 2019, 09:37 AM
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onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zipman
Nice work. Soon it will be standing on the gear.
After reading your comment I was tempted to put on the LG and place it in the fuselage. But I resisted.
LOL
Itíll be in the saddle soon enough.
Oct 14, 2019, 02:02 PM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP

Big Plans - NO GO


I had plans to sand the inner leading edge, sand down all the ribs and spars to smooth babies bum so I could begin sheeting. OMG the inner leading edge on the RHS did match up with the central leading edge. I would type another acronym but the forum want let me post it. I didn't notice this at all.

Upon further inspection there seems to be a tear at that point...did it break off...we are only talking about 3mm but enough of an issue that I decided to remove the inner leading edge and make a new one. All done and its gluing. I'll leave it for 24 hours to fully cure.

So now what...I hadn't planned for any other activity... so I could clean up the work area...so instead I decided to work on the tail section some more. I took out my razor plane and sanding bar and started.

Breaker breaker broken pieces...the solid balsa elevator and rudder tips broke off at the glue joint. I believe this was medium CA. I do remember it took a long time to cure even with a spritz of accelerator.
I have thrown out that bottle.

So I began to ponder - first if I was to ever do this again, I would attach the solid balsa tips prior to glueing the leading edge, and I would extend the leading edges as far possible up onto the tips. This would then give the tips two surfaces to be glued. This would work for the stabilizer and fin.

For the elevator and rudder, the tips should be incorporated into the design again using the leading edge somehow.

But too late for that. I thought of the methods that carpenters use such as dowels. Area is too small for dowels or even bamboo sticks. But pins would work!

So I pushed a pin into the elevator and rudder...made a hole. Cut the pin to the right length turned the pin around so the blunt end goes into the previously made hole, filled the hole with medium CA from a new bottle, dabbed the pin with a little more glue pushed the pin into the hole. Letting it set for a few seconds...much fresher glue! I then pushed the solid balsa tips into the pins, lining them up carefully. Once the balsa was close to touching, I put some more med ca in between the two pieces and pushed the tip into place.
Very solid now.

Then spent the next few hours shaping and sanding the tips.
I also draw sanded the stabilizer into position. No gaps. No photos either sorry.
Oct 14, 2019, 04:18 PM
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onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP

encouragement


Got this image from the Canadian Harvard Association

This is the plane I will be modelling my colour scheme.
Oct 15, 2019, 06:17 AM
Wanted for breaking Ohm's Law
Dennis Sumner's Avatar
Hi Doug,

I just stumbled across your build. Nice looking model and you are making good progress! Iíll follow along.....

Denny
Latest blog entry: RC Throw Gauge
Oct 15, 2019, 07:44 AM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP
Hey Dennis, thanks for stopping in

Please drop any advice you might have. I am learning and well we both know the results of my last build LOL - up, over, left and toothpicks. (Actually the fuselage survived, just need to build a wing)

Can't believe Mark is selling more of his GOLD standards...beautiful planes.
Oct 17, 2019, 08:40 AM
Summit Model Aeronautics
Steve85's Avatar
Hey Doug,

Nice build. There's a Harvard on a pedestal outside the RCAF Association where we hold our club meetings in the winter. Just might have to build one one of these days...

Regarding gear struts, I've used different diameter aluminum tubing slipped over spindly music wire gear legs before to simulate oleos and larger diameter scale struts. It would be more challenging doing the same for bent struts, but I'd be tempted to tinker and see what could be done.

Steve
Oct 17, 2019, 09:05 AM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve85
Regarding gear struts, I've used different diameter aluminum tubing slipped over spindly music wire gear legs before to simulate oleos and larger diameter scale struts. It would be more challenging doing the same for bent struts, but I'd be tempted to tinker and see what could be done.
Interesting idea.
I did buy some robarts strut covers, they are plastic abs or something. I tried to bend the struts to fit those, but the angles weren't right. Now the units are in pieces - so I was thinking of having my son - who is into customizing Warhammer soldiers - take the pieces and using his resin material make the strut covers work.
But if that doesn't work, I've got a lot of pits and pieces I can use.
Thanks for the suggestion Steve. I really appreciate the feedback.

And I like what you did very cool.
Oct 18, 2019, 10:28 PM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP

Scratching along


Well, I really don't want to enclose the wings or the fuselage until I work out a few issues.

How to hinge the flaps - the flaps are made very thin with 1/8" LE on the flaps and 1/8" basswood on the TE of the wing. Not a lot to dig through. Looking at the plans, I felt the pivot point is in between the TE/LE and the 3/16" sheet of balsa on the wing or 3/16" ply on the flap. So I dug through the 1/8" spar on the LE of the flaps and filed down the TE 1/8" on the wing to allow the hinge to sit into the TE. I also added an additional 1/8" piece to the TE where the hinge will sit to provide more area for when I glue the hinge in place with epoxy.
The TE of the wing was also rounded out a bit to allow the hinge pin to sit into the TE, providing a tighter seal between the TE and the LE.
The plans called for a torque pin - as the inner flap moves from the servo, the outer flap is moved by the inner flap and this torque pin. I drilled the hole and glued the inner flap pin with med CA. The outflap pin is free floating.
See photos and video

Control rods, where should they exit and where will they need to be held in position. So a drilled out a hole on either side of the fuselage, inserted the control rod sleeves, and lined them up with the position of where the servos position. Drew up some small wood holders that I will cut up tomorrow.

But while positioning the servos, I thought about the battery position, and decided to change the battery position. But didn't like the decision. My quandary is the battery hatch. Most builds have the hatch in front of the windshield, which makes sense but the cut lines are distracting. So I wanted to build a canopy hatch. Ya I ain't that good.

So after deliberating for days and not getting any sleep, I decided that the best place for the hatch is in front of the windshield BUT the whole front piece will come off so the lines are on the side. I can make it look like a panel.

Not a lot of progress but its all the nitty gritty stuff that we normally do at the end, I am doing it while its easy to do, while everything is open. Hopefully in the end it works in my favour.
Oct 22, 2019, 07:23 AM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP
Sanded the wing
I was outside sanding down this desk top that had hardened CA glue, paint and all other kinds of stuff from my son's warhammer hobby. So while outside, its a beautiful albeit windy day, I thought why not, lets get the wing sanded to shape. The LE and TE need to be shaped to match the ribs, while the structure needed to be sanded smooth and even.
I only broke one wing rib tip...oops, put it in my pocket and once inside I glued it back on.

Sheeting the wing
Time to sheet the wing. Spent a few days trying to decide how to tackle this. I've done some gyprocing (sheet rock) in my houses and one thing I learned is never to have edges lined up or have an edge where there is a stress point such as a corner of a door or window. So I figured it would be best not to have the edges of the sheets lining up, similar to how brick is laid. Is it stronger? Less likely to crack?
So anyways all the sheets were laid out to maximize the wood usage and keep the wing balanced, the TE was laid first and glued.
Next day I realized that I hadn't checked where the flaps edges are in comparison to the rib tips - so yes I cut the wood too thin front to back. Dang.
I cut the sheet back to the TE spar, sanded the glue and wood down to the bare wood and glued on a piece last night.
I'm learning. argh

Sheeting the bottom fuse
On the other table the bottom of the fuselage had been wrapped in 1/8" balsa that had been soaked for 30 minutes in HOT water. The wrapping was held in place with green painter's tape.
Last night I glued the first piece on with CA. I began to measure out the second piece but it cracked along the wood grain. I'll have to bend another piece tonight.

Steerable tail wheel.
So reading all the advantages and disadvantages of castor vs steerable, the consensus appeared to be that castor wheels are preferred...I decided to go against the grain...as usual... and make up a steerable tail wheel.
The design that Tony has is great, but it doesn't match the style of wheel strut in the plane I am modelling. So I pieced something together from stuff lying around. Some brass pipe, a servo grommet, soldered to the wheel strut and a servo wheel epoxied to the grommet. This arrangement held in another plane I had - whe'el see.
I read of an arrangement where the tail wheel was controlled via a thin servo rod from the rudder control horn back to the tailwheel. I'll work this out.
Beauty is, if this doesn't work the tail wheel can be removed and changed to a castor quite easily.

have a good one
Doug
Oct 23, 2019, 07:39 AM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP

Still Sheeting


Still working on the bottom of the fuselage. Last night I added the forward sheets, and bent another rear sheet to replace the one I snapped.
I use mostly HOT water when I am bending, but when the wood is pushing back I squirt some windex with ammonia. This was used on the front side around the cowl area.

More sheets added to the wing.

The plans say to use 1/8" sheet, this stuff seems too thick for a wing, I thought 3/32" would be enough.
I am not a designer, so I don't know what the designer had in mind, just seems heavy.
I know he didn't fibreglass his, he used easycote.

Its too late to go back now, just saying.
Oct 23, 2019, 07:44 AM
Wanted for breaking Ohm's Law
Dennis Sumner's Avatar
Baby steps....

I tend to agree 1/8Ē seems pretty thick to sheet the fuse. Might have been easier to plank with 1/8Ē?
Latest blog entry: RC Throw Gauge
Oct 23, 2019, 08:38 AM
Registered User
Zipman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by onewonders

More sheets added to the wing.

The plans say to use 1/8" sheet, this stuff seems too thick for a wing, I thought 3/32" would be enough.
I am not a designer, so I don't know what the designer had in mind, just seems heavy.
I know he didn't fibreglass his, he used easycote.

Its too late to go back now, just saying.
The Midwest AT-6 kit 83in span at 1/6th scale used 3/32 on the wings and 1/8th sheeting on the fuse.

Try to sand the rear fuse well the more weight behind the CG the more you will have to add up front.
Oct 23, 2019, 10:13 AM
Build Fly Crash - Start Again!
onewonders's Avatar
Thread OP
I just re-read the plans.

Fuselage 3mm or 1/8"
Wings 2.4mm or 3/32"

Huge mistake ...and I didn't have any wine last night...

So....suggestions please.

Do I remove what I have glued down....or do I do the rest of the top in 3/32" and the bottom in 3/32"

If I finish the rest of the wing with 3/32" some shaping will be required, not an issue.
Sand the 1/8" as much as needed, keeping the 3/32" as is, I could lighten the 1/8"
Making sure it is balanced left to right?

I would hate to lose all that balsa and time, but I leave it to you guys to give some advise.
Oct 23, 2019, 12:15 PM
Registered User
Zipman's Avatar
Ya, finish the wing in 3/32 then sand that 1/8 down as best you can. Only got to take off 1/32.
Still surprised the plans called for 1/8th on the fuse.


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