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Feb 16, 2005, 11:12 AM
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cosmin's Avatar
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Need help with two diesel engines !


Hello !

I have two small diesel engines, one is a Silver Swallow 1.49cc and the other a german Jena 1cc i think. The thing with these engines is that i forgot about them for years and i want to use them again. They got very sticky over the years and they barely move at all. Does anyone know how to clean, wash, oil them etc. ? I don't know much about diesels so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks !
Cosmin
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Feb 16, 2005, 12:25 PM
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ivanc's Avatar
Use kerosene for cleaning, an old toothbrush for washing and after run oil for oiling. I had a Jena 22 years ago - it had a cylinder sleeve that screws into the short crankcase. I didn't use it in anything - it was too weak for my boats, but I would occasionally mount it to a stand that I had and just start and run it for fun.
Feb 17, 2005, 02:09 PM
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Tony Oliver's Avatar
As ivanc says - soak them for a day or so in diesel fuel if you have any left. The remaining ether and kerosene/paraffin will help loosen the castor. Otherwise

It will help to dismantle the needle valve assembly - they have small holes which will certainly be bunged up with gunk. Make sure plenty of the soaking mix gets inside the engines too.

Take care to save any fibre washers or gaskets - they could be difficult to replace even if you make them yourself.
Feb 17, 2005, 06:27 PM
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cosmin's Avatar
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Hello !

Thanks for your replies ! I've followed your advice and soaked them in kerosene for about 24 hours, oiled them and i managed to start the Silver Swallow today. It runs very smooth and without any problems. It's like new ! [] I'll try the Jena tomorrow.

Thanks again!
Cosmin
Apr 18, 2014, 07:18 PM
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unclecrash's Avatar
One thing I do is make sure the spray bar is clear by blowing through a clean piece of fuel tubing hooked to fuel inlet take the needle valve right out and plug it with your finger while blowing through the fuel tubing . If it's plugged the engine won't run.
Oct 09, 2018, 06:36 AM
Registered User
What I would like to know is how to free up a gummed-up engine that is installed in a model. Soaking in any kind of solvent is just not feasible.
Oct 09, 2018, 06:37 AM
GloBroz PowerLab
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
Take the engine out of the model?
Oct 09, 2018, 07:48 AM
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Tony Oliver's Avatar
First of all, like most things, it's not that easy. Details are necessary as action needed depends on the following and damage can be caused if the wrong remedial work is used.
What is the engine make and size?
Is it glow (USA use the term nitro) or diesel?
Is it an r/c engine?
Has it got all parts such as needle valve/carburettor?

I agree with 1QwkSport2.5r - you will probably need to remove it from the model to see the make and any other info on the crankcase.
If all else fails, post a picture of it.
Last edited by Tony Oliver; Oct 09, 2018 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Spelling
Oct 09, 2018, 06:08 PM
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fiery's Avatar
Tony

Try the following:

1. Heat engine case nose and cylinder with a hair dryer until almost too hot to hold tightly

2. Try to move the working parts with a propeller installed by gently "rocking" the propeller back and forth through the arc.

3. Using WD-40 or similar product from a pressure pack with a straw in the nozzle, squirt a couple of shots in the venturi and exhaust port (muffler if fitted removed). let soak for minute and try rocking propeller again.

It should free up.

If this has no effect, the engine will need to removed and solvent soaked in petrol (US: gasoline), acetone or similar.
Last edited by fiery; Oct 23, 2018 at 10:50 PM.
Oct 21, 2018, 02:57 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Take the engine out of the model?
Not feasible without destroying the fuselage, I'm afraid,
Oct 21, 2018, 03:04 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Oliver
First of all, like most things, it's not that easy. Details are necessary as action needed depends on the following and damage can be caused if the wrong remedial work is used.
What is the engine make and size?
Is it glow (USA use the term nitro) or diesel?
Is it an r/c engine?
Has it got all parts such as needle valve/carburettor?

I agree with 1QwkSport2.5r - you will probably need to remove it from the model to see the make and any other info on the crankcase.
If all else fails, post a picture of it.
It is an AM 10 diesel. It has all its parts and was last run more than 10 years ago, when it ran OK. The model is a KK Systreak 26. It has never been flown.
Last edited by SAM350011; Oct 22, 2018 at 03:49 PM.
Oct 21, 2018, 04:36 PM
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Tony Oliver's Avatar
The Skystreak is a bog-standard control-line kit aircraft by KeilKraft here in the UK from back in the 1950s, as is the AM10 diesel. The engine should be mounted sideways on wooden engine bearers which, in turn, are glued to the bulkhead behind he engine. It should have been attached to the bearers with two 6 BA bolts (or equivalent) on the mounting lug on each side of the crankcase.

The normal construction should be of carved block balsawood arranged and carved to fair in the fuselage to the engine's spinner. Holes will be made to allow the cylinder, front intake, needle valve and fuel line to the tank. It was usual to do this and encase the engine but leaving sufficient space around it to allow cooling air.It needs to be suitably fuelproofed against diesel fuel. It is a straightforward model technique to do it this way. Careful cutting will free the engine from it's mounting bolts. I see no reason for you to think it 'will destroy the model'.
If you really feel you can't do such basic surgery, you need someone to assist you who has experience of small c/l models.

If you do a search on Skystreak 26 you will find plans of the aircraft in sufficient detail.
How about providing us with a picture of the engine and nose area?

Unless the builder of the model has thought up some unusual construction techniques/materials which no one has seen before, don't be at all hesitant in tackling this.
Oct 22, 2018, 04:04 PM
Registered User
All that is correct, Tony. I know that to be so because I built the model myself, from a KK kit. The difficulty arises because of the questionable quality of the wood in the kit. I should probably have discarded it and used better wood. The blocks are as hard as oak, almost. Cutting them away to expose the 6BA nuts will necessitate sawing, which will create kerfs that will be difficult to fill when reassembling everything. Moreover the sheet balsa from which the fuselage sides are made is weak and brittle. Holding it firmly enough to enable the block parts to be sawn off will make it collapse. For all these reasons I am reluctant to attempt removal of the engine unless there is no alternative.
Last edited by SAM350011; Oct 23, 2018 at 01:13 PM.


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