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Jul 17, 2019, 10:30 AM
A man with too many toys
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirion
Thanks guys for all the calculations and the continuing education. I am very interested in that Castle Creations Talon 60 for the 20 amp BEC. Most of the motors on the Horizon sight in this range suggest a 80 amp ESC, are they over rating things? I definitely trust your suggestions, just wondering why. So many choices but I am finally getting comfortable in my decisions thanks to your help.
That's an excellent choice. I have one and have never had any problems.

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Jul 19, 2019, 08:29 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Final Component Choices


Thanks to all of the great help I received, here are the choices I made. Now waiting for motor to get here to figure out what airframe mods are required. I chose the motor that is both slower and heavier, I hate dealing with "tail heavy" and the addition of lead on the short side of the CG. With the long wing chord on this plane there is plenty of room in the fuse to move the battery around for balance.
Do you think large amounts of air flow will be required to keep this ESC and battery combo cool?
Will keep you posted.

Turnigy G46 Brushless Outrunner 550kv
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...v-46-glow.html

Castle Creations Talon 60 Brushless ESC w/Heavy Duty BEC
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-...163-00/p722962

Turnigy 3200mAh 4S 30C LiPoly Pack
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...b32004s30.html
Jul 19, 2019, 10:16 AM
Registered User
vollrathd's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirion
Thanks to all of the great help I received, here are the choices I made. Now waiting for motor to get here to figure out what airframe mods are required. I chose the motor that is both slower and heavier, I hate dealing with "tail heavy" and the addition of lead on the short side of the CG. With the long wing chord on this plane there is plenty of room in the fuse to move the battery around for balance.
Do you think large amounts of air flow will be required to keep this ESC and battery combo cool?
Will keep you posted.

URL]
FYI, these electric motors are designed for firewall mounting, your model is designed for glow engine beam mounting.

How thick is that top back plate at the rear end of those beam mounts? A properly braced plywood backplate of 1/4 inch thick plywood should do it.

There is little vibration on an electric motor setup. However that firewall needs to be strong enough to survive a nose over and prop strike.

For ventilation, a couple of holes, each perhaps 1 inch in diameter through that firewall will work. You also need fuse air exit holes. I put slots on the underside of the fuse.

Check to see if the ESC will fit under the brushless motor. That will provide plenty of air cooling for the ESC.
Last edited by vollrathd; Jul 19, 2019 at 10:21 AM.
Sep 17, 2019, 12:44 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks to several members here I have completed my build of the electrified Great Planes SloPoke. It flies like a dream. I have also turned it into a FPV platform which has worked quite well. I was able to design and cut a motor mount that incorporated the 2 degrees of down and 3 degrees of right thrust that the print called for.Thanks again to all who taught me about sizing a motor and ESC to electrify a plane.

Here is my first FPV video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eBC...ature=youtu.be

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eBCwxCT-sI&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]
Sep 17, 2019, 06:53 PM
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scirocco's Avatar
Congratulations! The model looks great and better still you like how it flys.

Just to close the loop and get some validation against the calculators, could you advise which prop you chose, and if available your static wattmeter readings.
Sep 17, 2019, 07:32 PM
Registered User
vollrathd's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirion
Thanks to several members here I have completed my build of the electrified Great Planes SloPoke. It flies like a dream. I have also turned it into a FPV platform which has worked quite well. I was able to design and cut a motor mount that incorporated the 2 degrees of down and 3 degrees of right thrust that the print called for.Thanks again to all who taught me about sizing a motor and ESC to electrify a plane.

Nice job!

Now if you like, you could pick up a sheet of 1/64 plywood, and make a cowl for that motor Make a half ring for the front, and attach it to the fuse with some small screws.

(FYI, I tried to watch your video, but YouTube comes back as this video is private!)
Sep 17, 2019, 08:52 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I had a soundtrack that was copyrighted so I removed it, hopefully the video is now accessible. (It was Tom Petty-Learning To Fly) The video has all of the electric drive and video components at the end of it.

scirocco, I am running a 14 x 10E prop on it and get about 15 minutes of flight time with a 3200mAh 4S battery. I do not have a watt meter but am interested in getting a reasonably priced one if someone could point me to an appropriate one. I do have a clamp-on amp probe that goes down to a 0-6 amp scale, would that work? I also have a 14 x 12E that I have not tried yet.

vollrathd, Yes, I have been meaning to clean up the front end. Even with the heavier slower motor and the battery right behind the firewall I was still tail heavy. I would like to hide the lead and smooth the nose some.
Sep 18, 2019, 11:00 AM
Registered User
E-Challenged's Avatar
Amazon sells a number of similar-looking Chinese-made wattmeters . I bought mine from Motion RC, had to solder on Deans Ultra connectors to match gender of my speed control and battery connectors. BTW, Motion RC sells Admiral brand battery packs that are reasonably priced and pretested before they ship and MRC is good and quick about after sale support. You may get drawn into buying one or more of MRC's big foamy propeller and EDF warbirds.

Some tips about lipo batteries and charging: Don't charge batteries then leave them fully charged for more than a few days after cancelling a flying session. Most modern lipo chargers have a "storage charge" setting that (slowly) drops voltage from 4.2 to 3.8 volts per cell. Try not to over-discharge lipo packs by flying too long and having low voltage cutoff (LVC) occur. Storing fully charged and over-discharging shortens useful lipo pack life. As lipo packs are used a number of times, the internal resistance in each cell increases and they begin to get warm or hot during a flight and may "puff-up". Puffed up packs lose performance and duration and will eventually need to be discharged and disposed of carefully. Choice of lipo battery chargers and power supplies, safe methods of discharging and disposal are hot topics of discussion on RC Groups Battery and Chargers forum.

I use a 4-port multi-chemistry charger that has a built in power supply and can balance charge or discharge four different capacity lipo or other chemistry batteries up to 6S (6-cell) at 80-watts per port. Many users prefer to use a higher amp capacity charger connected to a high capacity power supply, and "parallel" charging boards to charge a number of (identical capacity) batteries simultaneously . These subjects
deserve careful study for safe care and feeding of Lipo batteries. My club requires us to have fire extinguishers handy in the pits. Lipos should not be left unattended while charging, they are not dynamite, but must be handled with some care and common sense.
Last edited by E-Challenged; Sep 18, 2019 at 11:27 AM.
Sep 19, 2019, 12:03 PM
Registered User
FlyerMan4Life's Avatar
power 32 with a 60amp esc, 4s 3300-4600mah lipo, 12x6e-13x6.5e apc prop
Sep 19, 2019, 08:20 PM
Registered User
scirocco's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyerMan4Life
power 32 with a 60amp esc, 4s 3300-4600mah lipo, 12x6e-13x6.5e apc prop
Given the OP has already flown his electric conversion the point is moot, but why push a relatively lightweight motor, higher rpm low diameter prop solution for a slow flying model that easy fits a 14" prop and still needs nose weight even with the 300g G46?

Sure the Power 32 would work but I'd argue much less optimised for the OP's Slowpoke.
Sep 20, 2019, 07:39 AM
Registered User
FlyerMan4Life's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirocco
Given the OP has already flown his electric conversion the point is moot, but why push a relatively lightweight motor, higher rpm low diameter prop solution for a slow flying model that easy fits a 14" prop and still needs nose weight even with the 300g G46?

Sure the Power 32 would work but I'd argue much less optimised for the OP's Slowpoke.
yes I see he went with a .46 motor ....I have done a lot of electric conversions the 32 worked perfect on my fathers CG cub conversion we did and you can run a 14x4 prop on it no problem on 4s 🤔 seems like a slow flyer to me .....more than one way to skin a cat ....but if he needed nose weight it would make since.....


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