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Apr 05, 2021, 01:10 PM
perfectly cromulent flyer
considering getting one of these to complement my Eflite F-15 & F-16. Would be nice to have rudder and flaps. On the fence though because it seems like they'd fly pretty similar. Anyone have 1 of the Eflites or even both? How do they compare?
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Apr 05, 2021, 01:22 PM
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Josef086's Avatar
While I don't have the E-flight F16, I can say compared to my Freewing F16 the Marlin fly's differently enough I am happy to have both. My experience with my two planes has only been a couple of flights, however, they are different animals.

The f16 likes to climb, roll, and high alpha. The Marlin is lower stress is flys more sport like. What’s really nice about the Marlin is it’s easier to transport and I feel more confident in flying it in more weather conditions then the f16
Last edited by Josef086; Apr 05, 2021 at 01:29 PM.
Apr 05, 2021, 02:30 PM
Registered User
It's a sport jet vs a delta wing scale jet.

It will fly inverted and do knife edges and track really well.

It won't do high alpha.
Apr 05, 2021, 03:01 PM
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Use Coupon Code MARLIN15 for $15 off the Arrows Marlin (4/5/2021)
Apr 07, 2021, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleS12
Several members (5) of our club have purchased this aircraft because it handles so well. Unfortunately 3 of us have had ESC brownout issues caused by inadequate airflow. Two have increased ESC to 60AMP with one mounting his vertically over the inside vents. Both of the 60AMP birds are flying without any further brownout issues. Both aircraft have increased intake air across the ESC too.
Do you know what 60AMP ESC did they install in their Marlins? I'm thinking of doing the same, and I want to know which 60AMP ESCs fit with no problems.
Apr 07, 2021, 04:20 PM
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Josef086's Avatar
Something else to consider is the linear bec on the ESC is a fail point. I have found that linear works decently on 2s and sometimes 3s, but 4s is really pushing it. The linear bec function generates a lot more heat then the esc side under load.

I think by simply putting in your own sbec (just make sure do disconnect the middle wire on your stock esc lead into the rx). I am using a lemon gyro rx so I wanted to ensure I had good clean power going to it so I used a castle creation sbec (I had on had).

Here is one that is popular on lemon rx thread https://hobbyking.com/en_us/yep-20a-...en_us_products

Of course bumping up the esc to 60amp like some people did is not a bad idea either, just make sure you get one with an sbec instead of a linear.
Last edited by Josef086; Apr 07, 2021 at 04:29 PM.
Apr 14, 2021, 12:43 PM
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Bob Reynolds's Avatar
Back a few weeks ago I asked about the use of auxiliary air intakes for this model. I like the looks and was intrigued by the write up by Don Slusarczyk in the winter issue of Park Pilot. I sent an e-mail to Don about the intakes but have not had an answer. I saw the message about $15 off and bit. The box came yesterday and I'm beginning to answer my own question.

First off. The outside surfaces art beautiful. The fit and finish of the parts are very good. The foam shipping box is a wonderful piece of engineering form and function.

Now lets talk about the insides of the plane. Not good. I haven't been able to measure the OD of the motor housing, so I can't calculate the FSA of this fan. But the Freewing 64 mm has a FSA of 4.057 sq in, so that figure is probably close enough. Exhaust area is 4.2, that's larger than 100%. That slows the plane down. Intake: Here is a real molding problem. Use your finger. Go around the inlet on the outside edge. Feel the sharp edge. This is a first class no-no. That edge needs to be sanded into a smooth radius. Area: I've measured and remeasured, printed and cut out paper drawings of the area and the best that I can come up with is 1.5 sq in for each side giving 3 sq in for an intake looking for 4 sq in. It is true that an intake with nicely rounded edges has aerodynamically more area than the physical area, but getting another inch of area would be a real stretch of the aerodynamics involved. OK, so cheater intakes are needed.

Lets look at beyond the inlets. An inlet must be smooth, no sharp or sudden direction change or changes in volume. This intake breaks all of the forgoing rules. It abruptly opens up. The fairing on the wing and upper body abruptly ends with a square edge. The slotted plywood parts further open up the volume as do the openings for the 3 cheater inlets. The plywood piece with round holes directly in front of the fan disturb the airflow to the fan.

Lets look at the ESC. What kills ESC's? HEAT. Is the ESC cooled in this plane? Not really. It's mounted in a cavity above the air intake with no inlet feeding the cavity with air. Yes, some may think that the plywood with holes some hows gets air forward of the ESC to cool it while moving the air aft. Also, just for the heck of it, there is no opening directing air to the flight battery, so it runs hot.

I see these corrections. Cut out enough slots in the plywood to allow the ESC to come into the intake cavity. There is a hole in the upper body in the fairing flat area that can be enlarged to allow the ESC wires to go forward. Yup, there will be a crossing of wires from the wing servos and the ESC wires. Live with it! The ESC can then be mounted vertically lengthwise behind the fairing. One method would be to mount wood rectangles to the back of the fairing and gluing the ESC between them. Take off the shrink covering from the ESC so that the metal heat sink can be active. The fairing should continue to match that of the wing. Just keep the ESC free of the fairing and in the airflow. Continue the fairing on the wing back to the bottom cheater opening. Tape over the wing cheater opening, inside and outside there by reducing the excess volume of the inlet. I would also build up and then the tape over the plywood and holes in front of the fan. I would also tape up the last 2 gill openings on the side which would smooth out the airflow a little. Obviously the outside grill for those openings needs to be taped also.

Battery. This one is difficult. There is a slot behind the nose gear that dumps air under the plywood battery mount. I would toy with the idea of using an Ex-acto knife to bevel the upper inside edges of the opening. There is a very generous piece of Velcro on the mount. Perhaps it needs to be cut down and holes drilled in the plywood for air to get around the battery. Battery air exit would be the hole in the plywood that you opened up for the ESC.

Nothing hard to do, just fussy, and perhaps better performance.

As I go forward with this project I'll post pictures and maybe some of this will come together. One thing though, I'm a slow builder.
Apr 14, 2021, 12:58 PM
PSALM 14:1
Sammy70's Avatar
Or just stick it together in 20 minutes and go enjoy it as is!
Apr 14, 2021, 02:10 PM
perfectly cromulent flyer
bummer. I waited too long and now the coupon code no longer works
Apr 14, 2021, 03:32 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy70
Or just stick it together in 20 minutes and go enjoy it as is!
+1

Mine is 100% stock and it fly's awesome. In fact, is currently my favourite goto EDF as it is cheap i.e it goes lower on knife-edge etc!

Just leave it alone and fly it!
Apr 14, 2021, 11:58 PM
perfectly cromulent flyer
could the 8 servos on it just be too much for an integrated BEC?
Apr 15, 2021, 12:31 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmoyer
could the 8 servos on it just be too much for an integrated BEC?
Maybe, I have only flown mine for 146 flights so far and it still fly's like new?

My telemetry has never given any warnings about low voltage to the RX.
Apr 15, 2021, 08:52 AM
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sniperdog's Avatar

CG and safe


Hi. Just got the Marlin. All setup but when in safe mode the elevator goes up pretty high. How do i excatly know where to put the AR636 rx in the cockpit? I know CG is 8-9cm from edge but is it very importent to place excatly under CG or near the CG? I post som pics.
Apr 15, 2021, 12:20 PM
Waiting for the next clear day
amagalla's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy70
Or just stick it together in 20 minutes and go enjoy it as is!
+1

Nuff said!
Apr 15, 2021, 12:24 PM
Registered User
Northflier's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperdog
Hi. Just got the Marlin. All setup but when in safe mode the elevator goes up pretty high. How do i excatly know where to put the AR636 rx in the cockpit? I know CG is 8-9cm from edge but is it very importent to place excatly under CG or near the CG? I post som pics.
What plane is the AR636 out of? It has to be oriented the same way it was in the original plane. The other thing you can do is buy the programming cable for the AR636 and set it up the way you want. I used an AR636 in my Marlin and loaded it with the HH Viper set up. If I remember right I had to reverse one of the control surfaces, don't remember which one. The Viper setup file works really well in the Marlin.


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