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Jun 29, 2019, 11:49 AM
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Now this is Short and Direct, esc/motor wires, Addiction therapy


t'was debating whether or not to do this, only after my new plastic bottle canopy did make it's self a design advantage to place esc thusly I decided to forgo the esc/motor connectors and solder straight into each other short and to the point. Yes there's a big hole in the frame side where the lipo is, glad you noticed.

have a look

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could have shortened the motor wires too however fussing with wire enamel is messy, may do it in the future since the motor wires were somehow split open at the bend if you looked closely at them,

used to be here

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where big brother SAB told me to.

Point was minus a whole servo full of 20gr in wire eliminated, the wires could have been shortened even more at the lipo and the motor/esc as the lipo power leads are immediately adjacent to the esc -/+ power wires knocking out another 6grams no doubt. That's bordering on loosing a whole OUNCE of unnecessary weight and power transfer is more immediate. Connectors loose how much delivery due to resistance? And that much length in wire is negligible however a lighter gauge at those short lengths would work well and loose more weight (a few grams only but it adds up).

Flew my Alzrc 380 in blustery wind within a back yard a few days ago where turbulence is amplified, fearing some knocking around close to trees and high fence I was astonished to see the heli held firm in the air where it was directed to, simply mavoolos.

How do you mess with your toys? lol. if you could see what is envisioned for my Align 700e, jeepers when I mocked a canopy two or three years ago.

This hobby has a payoff of either misery or giggles, wholeeeeeee THAT is totally AMAZING just looking at them idle, in the air even more, and the rotor buzz, lol.

Expensive too, recently dropped another nearly $500 on extra rc bits between two helis 380 and 420 , not even a kit, upgrades, whew, and it ain't over because I have more than one needing the green fertilizer to make a few minor improvements so they are completely flyable and sporty.

I know, it's the addiction of money spending that is the monkey, the hook, the dose of dope, the fix, the score, Christmas was when the rc heli toy part came to the front door and you open the package to see some shiney new expensive part for one of your objects of true devotion, hehehehe, lol.

uhuh, lol.
Last edited by icanflyheli; Jun 29, 2019 at 02:37 PM. Reason: shiney stuff
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Jun 29, 2019, 01:20 PM
Cá bhfuil Micheál?
spykez's Avatar
Your heli, dude! Just be careful and enjoy!
Jun 29, 2019, 04:16 PM
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Cyclone 7's Avatar
Edit
Last edited by Cyclone 7; Jun 29, 2019 at 04:45 PM.
Jun 30, 2019, 06:06 PM
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mysterious edit
Jul 05, 2019, 05:11 PM
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how is this effectiving the balance of the heli....?
Jul 05, 2019, 05:16 PM
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https://www.google.com/search?client...g+vs+effecting
Jul 05, 2019, 06:29 PM
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it has not affected the balance of the heli other than to move more mass up to cog, biggest culprit being the lipo. The ypg is generally very flat so doing this with a Hobbywing isn't the same. I put extensions on my 420 where the Hobbywing sits in front of the motor. You have to imagine a bulge in the canopy where this esc is, the bulge came first so I went hey, what if, and did this arrangement shortly after the pondering.
Jul 20, 2019, 11:42 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
What about using small battery lugs instead?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crimp-or-So....c100227.m3827

6mm2 is equivalent to 10-9 AWG (a a lot of silicone insulated wire in the RC hobby sold as AWG is really metric actually). The idea here is that you solder the lugs onto each side (you could take a dremel grinding wheel to the crimp tube to make a cut away solder cup.) then you just screw them together with an m4 stainless steel screw and nylock nut and cover the whole thing in shrink tubing. The torqued down connection would have less resistance than a bullet plug but could still be disconnected.

I have not been able to find true 10 AWG battery lugs with holes smaller than 1/4" It seems only metric sized lugs are made with holes smaller than that.
Jul 21, 2019, 02:21 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
I just did my own short wire solution on my new SoXos Strike 7 but this was made easier because the Kontronik ESC has bolt on battery wires, so it's possible just to use ring terminals on the ends of the motor wires and bolt them direct to the ESC... like this:

Jul 21, 2019, 10:47 PM
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Atomic Skull. actually I forgot I usually solder wire end to end short length connections inside a brass or copper sleeve. Shove the pre-tinned ends together in the sleeve and heat while shoving the wires inside closer. Crimping a sleeve may be as effective while not risking the heat from soldering migrate into the esc and motor too far.

Quote:
possible just to use ring terminals on the ends of the motor wires and bolt them direct to the ESC... like this:
like this? bolt directly to the esc? with ring ends on the motor wire? yes that would be simple. What I think about regarding connections is electron flow path and resistance , all depends on how many watts are required passing through. There's an understanding about electricity that is not like water flowing through a hose.

My wires on the 380 were shorten'd some more, might have lost another inch on all three wires. The extreme of an esc/motor connection would be to solder the motor wire right to the esc board with an inch of wire between them. You'd want a little flex point in this arrangement for crash purposes.
Last edited by icanflyheli; Jul 21, 2019 at 11:01 PM.
Jul 21, 2019, 11:04 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer
I just did my own short wire solution on my new SoXos Strike 7 but this was made easier because the Kontronik ESC has bolt on battery wires, so it's possible just to use ring terminals on the ends of the motor wires and bolt them direct to the ESC... like this:


Yeah I've seen that and imo no ESC that sells for over $300 should have hardwired leads. Battery and motor wires should be tabs and the throttle etc. should have servo ports. I don't understand why Kontronik is the only one that does this.
Jul 21, 2019, 11:32 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by icanflyheli
There's an understanding about electricity that is not like water flowing through a hose.
Does Electricity REALLY Flow? (Electrodynamics) (7 min 35 sec)


Energy doesn't FLOW the way you THINK! (Electrodynamics) (7 min 50 sec)
Last edited by Atomic Skull; Jul 21, 2019 at 11:38 PM.
Jul 22, 2019, 07:11 AM
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yeah I wrote a big long heavy mind set styled reply and was bumped by those damn internet provider surveys minutes ago.

Elements of the two videos have revealed something, affirmed something I suspected and have seen examples of long ago.

My interest atm is esc and motor heat due to resistance. Understanding electricity and magnetism the result of positively charged lipo electrons trying to equalize the negative "vacuum" of a lipo if that's the way to describe it, the electrons are converted to radiant heat, a magnetic force acting on conductive solids, the motor . Less heat= longer flight time, fewer watts expended for the same conversion of electrons to light/magnetism into the atmosphere or ground. The esc being a switching circuit is best operated at wot or very near. Electrons don't exert mechanical force, your motor does that with electricity to magnetic force the inspiring factor.

An argument for multi or single strand for highest efficiency and efficiency above 90% the goal. Is there such thing as a 95% efficient motor (possibly), why not more?

Shortest path kind of stuff right here.
Jul 22, 2019, 07:47 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by icanflyheli
yeah I wrote a big long heavy mind set styled reply and was bumped by those damn internet provider surveys minutes ago.

Elements of the two videos have revealed something, affirmed something I suspected and have seen examples of long ago.

My interest atm is esc and motor heat due to resistance. Understanding electricity and magnetism the result of positively charged lipo electrons trying to equalize the negative "vacuum" of a lipo if that's the way to describe it, the electrons are converted to radiant heat, a magnetic force acting on conductive solids, the motor . Less heat= longer flight time, fewer watts expended for the same conversion of electrons to light/magnetism into the atmosphere or ground. The esc being a switching circuit is best operated at wot or very near. Electrons don't exert mechanical force, your motor does that with electricity to magnetic force the inspiring factor.

An argument for multi or single strand for highest efficiency and efficiency above 90% the goal. Is there such thing as a 95% efficient motor (possibly), why not more?

Shortest path kind of stuff right here.
Ironless brushless motors can reach 96% efficiency, they are inrunners where the stator is made up of copper windings held together with epoxy and no iron stator core. However they have lower power to weight than iron stator core motors and they will burn up fast if you exceed their limits (no iron to absorb the excess heat so the windings heat up and melt instead). They are great for utility helicopters but not in 3D machines. Look up the Kontronik Tango motors.
Jul 22, 2019, 07:53 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by icanflyheli
My interest atm is esc and motor heat due to resistance. Understanding electricity and magnetism the result of positively charged lipo electrons trying to equalize the negative "vacuum" of a lipo if that's the way to describe it, the electrons are converted to radiant heat,
No. electron movement only facilitate an electric charge which itself facilitates energy from outside the wire via the electric field (which is attached to space and exists everywhere). The energy, and thus the excess heat isn't coming from the electrons or the electric charge, but from the energy from the electric field. Remember that the flow of energy must be perpendicular to the flow of charge.

Yeah quantum mechanics is weird.


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