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Jul 12, 2019, 01:00 PM
B for Bruce
BMatthews's Avatar
Coming along nicely Andy. You might have time for a second revisit if you keep going at this pace!
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Jul 12, 2019, 01:07 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
I wish.

I already have another project going on right now that takes my daylight "free" time. I had planned for it to take all summer, but that was before April Showers ran through June.

Andy
Jul 12, 2019, 02:36 PM
CC (Certified Curmudgeon)
flyerinokc's Avatar
So which side will the test stand be mounted?
Jul 12, 2019, 09:30 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Before work this morning I was able to get the firewall attached. I used 30 minute epoxy to glue it all together, with a little bit around the blind nuts to keep them in place.

After work I finished hinging. I DuBro #117 hinges because I have a bunch of them in stock on my wall. They're overkill, but they get the job done. These were epoxied in place first into the wing, stab, and fin. After those cured, I moved on to the control surfaces, slightly cutting out to make a recess for the hinge.

Though not shown, I also covered the bare wood firewall components with Z-Poxy finishing resin to fuel-proof them.

Andy
Jul 12, 2019, 10:27 PM
Old Timer
California Condor's Avatar
Looking good.
Jul 13, 2019, 08:41 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
After hinging everything, I started on the servo installations. A string is used to make it easier to pull the servo lead through. I had to add 6" extensions to so they reach the receiver. I set my planes up for separate aileron channels, but you could also use a Y if you like. I put heat shrink over the connections so that they can't come apart.

I made ply control horns, so I had to slot the control surfaces for them. I think this is nicer looking than nylon horns.

The aileron pushrods are two pieces of .047" piano wire. They overlap most of their lengths, and are held together with heat shrink tubing. This is fine for initial tuning. After I'm happy, I'll use CA to lock them in place.

After all that is done I joined the wing panels. I used 30 minute epoxy so I'd have plenty of work time. To keep the panels together while the glue cures I put a strip of tape over the joint.

The tail surfaces are done pretty much the same way. I removed covering where the fuse and stab meet. To keep the fin perpendicular I lock it in place with squares. The slot does help a lot, too.

I then put the pushrod supports into the fuselage. They are against and immediately behind the cross-braces. You have to make some measurements to locate them properly, referring to the plans. I didn't laser cut them because I didn't want to have to try to align them while putting everything else together in the fuselage.

That's it for tonight. Have a great Sunday!

Andy
Jul 14, 2019, 03:45 AM
Registered User
Thanks, Andy, for the 'swipeable' ideas. I particularly like the heat-shrink holding the servo connectors together, and the ingenious method of adjusting the push-rod lengths. I'll be adopting both notions in future (assuming no patent has been applied for..? ). Thanks for the tip-full Build Log; t'will be interesting to see how she flies.

Jul 14, 2019, 06:56 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
I use those pushrod ideas on my ultra micros, too, and I got them looking at what somebody else had. The heat shrink is something I saw on a turbine model.

Andy
Jul 15, 2019, 01:51 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dad3353
I particularly like..........the ingenious method of adjusting the push-rod lengths. I'll be adopting both notions in future ....
Me too!!!
Jul 15, 2019, 05:17 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dad3353
......... and the ingenious method of adjusting the push-rod lengths.

Yes, it is a good wheeze, I've been doing most of my models that way for a few years now. On the bigger models I use 1.5 or 2 mm carbon rod with "Z" bend wire extensions at both ends, lock the servo end one up first and then adjust the one at the control surface before locking it. In addition, on smaller models, I like to use the heat shrink tube as shown below on the Tarquin, directly connecting to the servo arm and a 1.5 mm carbon rod "horn". Less adjustment available with these, or you can use it at the servo end and the above wire/carbon/heat shrink deal at the surface end for the best of both worlds.
Jul 18, 2019, 02:42 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
It's been a few days since I posted, but it's because I've been busy doing instead of writing about doing.

Once the tail parts were assembled, it was time to add them to the fuselage. I used some scrap wood to help clamp them evenly to the frame, making sure I got them tight and square.

Because I didn't want to twist things, I waited overnight to give the epoxy plenty of cure time.

I mounted the servos, receiver, and antenna guides in place inside the radio box since it was easier to handle than it would be with the fuselage attached. I used hot glue to keep wires in place and prevent strains at the connectors.

This box was sprayed with a high-gloss automotive-type 2-part paint called "Spray Max 368 0061." Nasty stuff - don't breath it! I did this outside with a light breeze carrying fumes off to the bean field, then allowed it to cure overnight in the shop with the AC running to keep the humidity down. What a finish!

In the morning I glued the box to the fuselage, holding it in place with clamps and scrap wood. Any epoxy that oozed out was wiped away with alcohol.

The landing gear was added. The tail wheel was a bit of fun, since I hadn't taken care of that in the right sequence. I should have had it fitted before gluing the fin to the stab. The main gear is held in place using a small ply plate over the slots.

Andy
Jul 18, 2019, 02:48 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
AND NOW...

Tail CF pushrods have been added, using the same technique for the ends as on the ailerons.

The throttle pushrod is a Sullivan 6" rod with threaded ends. A clevis connects it to the TTX-25 servo and a ball link is on the throttle arm.

I still need to add a little weight up front for balancing. The nose is short because the original's was. If I weren't trying so hard to keep the authentic look, I would have made it about 2" longer and then there would have been no need for extra weight.

The tank is held in place with straps borrowed from a crashed electric heli.

The engine is a NIB OS .10FP that was a gift from a friend.

Andy
Jul 18, 2019, 10:17 PM
CC (Certified Curmudgeon)
flyerinokc's Avatar
She looks ready to fly!
Jul 18, 2019, 10:26 PM
Registered User
MSelig's Avatar
Looks real nice.
Jul 20, 2019, 06:03 AM
Registered User
rchopper56's Avatar
Back in the fifty's, we used to call a model like yours Andy, a full house. Electronics back then for a full house were very heavy and expensive. Your model has brought back many memories of my own dad, thank you.


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