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Jun 20, 2019, 09:38 AM
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help to glue flexible propeller shaft


Hi all,

help to glue flexible propeller shaft

The propeller shaft of my TFL 1138 Caudwell F1 gave problems (I tried to cut a piece and then I discovered that it was square at one end). I had a reserve shaft, though it is not well glued. He released the photograph.
Should I glue with epoxy?
Is there any special glue?

thank you
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Jun 20, 2019, 11:03 AM
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Apache Kemosabi's Avatar
If you clean it well and you have a good glueing surface ie good fit you can glue it using loctite retaining compound . Think its number 638 'just make sure you clean things well so theres no oil etc .
Jun 20, 2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apache Kemosabi
If you clean it well and you have a good glueing surface ie good fit you can glue it using loctite retaining compound . Think its number 638 'just make sure you clean things well so theres no oil etc .
Hi Apache

In Brazil I am not finding loctite 638. Could I use epoxy glue extraforte from loctite?

thanks
Jun 20, 2019, 02:37 PM
Registered User
Epoxy adhesive is no good for bonding shafts, as said you want a Loctite high strength retainer. Use Loctite 638 or Loctite 603 retainers. 603 is thinner & better for close fitting tolerances + it is oil tolerant. I use both 638 & 603 when i make my flex shafts & wire drives, they both work brilliant & i have never had a joint fail, if bonded correctly the flex will break before the joint fails. As said it needs cleaning well before bonding including down in the bore of the shaft. ,you can clean it with car brake cleaner available from auto stores.
Jun 20, 2019, 02:57 PM
Registered User
You can also use Loctite 648 retainer, if you cant source Loctite Offshore Electrics in the US stock 638 & 648 but they are out of stock on 603. You can generally find Loctite @ either bearing suppliers or Ebay as well.
Jun 20, 2019, 03:00 PM
Just Plane Nutts
AirDOGGe's Avatar
Try the Durepoxi if that's all you can find. If it works great. If it fails, no big surprise.

Looks more like a soldering job to me. Just a thought.
Jun 20, 2019, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinh50
Epoxy adhesive is no good for bonding shafts, as said you want a Loctite high strength retainer. Use Loctite 638 or Loctite 603 retainers. 603 is thinner & better for close fitting tolerances + it is oil tolerant. I use both 638 & 603 when i make my flex shafts & wire drives, they both work brilliant & i have never had a joint fail, if bonded correctly the flex will break before the joint fails. As said it needs cleaning well before bonding including down in the bore of the shaft. ,you can clean it with car brake cleaner available from auto stores.
Hi martinh50,
I found these 4 models here in Brazil (all are for bearings). Should any of these work?

TEKBOND 160
TEKBOND 138
Loctite 660
Loctite 601

thanks
Jun 20, 2019, 04:32 PM
Registered User
I know nothing about those products but the Tek bond 138 spec sheet looks like it is a high strength retainer & should do the job.
Jun 21, 2019, 04:08 PM
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Alfa Twin Spar's Avatar
Loctite 648 is made for this job, I use it and it' s perfect.
You can try eBay international :
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...acat=0&_sop=15
Jun 21, 2019, 11:13 PM
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Alfa Twin Spar's Avatar
An other good adhesive product, Bushing and Bearing Fixation, Liqui Moly 3807
Jun 22, 2019, 11:41 AM
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glgirvin's Avatar
Hi Marco AC, Not knowing what tools and resources you have available, the best method of connecting cable to the stub shaft is silver soldering. It requires that you have an oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch. Low temp silver solder melts at 900 degrees so you have toe be careful not to get cable too hot. i have since used Stay-brite silver bearing solder that melts at 430 degrees. I use the element on my electric stove to heat up and tin the cable , then heat the stub shaft and put the two together. Both the cable and the stub shaft have to clean before doing the process. I hope this helps . Thank you Gary
Jun 22, 2019, 06:23 PM
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Thread OP
thank you all.
I bought Loctite 638. I've pasted the shaft and it looks like it was ok.

Hi glgirvin, thank you, I believe the silver solder is much better, but unfortunately I do not have the skill or material for this type of service.
Jun 23, 2019, 04:21 AM
Just Plane Nutts
AirDOGGe's Avatar
You can find the items at auto supply and hardware stores. Not sure what you have around your area. The skill comes from practicing. None of us was born with it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by glgirvin
Hi Marco AC, Not knowing what tools and resources you have available, the best method of connecting cable to the stub shaft is silver soldering. It requires that you have an oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch. Low temp silver solder melts at 900 degrees so you have toe be careful not to get cable too hot. i have since used Stay-brite silver bearing solder that melts at 430 degrees. I use the element on my electric stove to heat up and tin the cable , then heat the stub shaft and put the two together. Both the cable and the stub shaft have to clean before doing the process. I hope this helps . Thank you Gary

I've done silver solder brazing at work using only Mapp gas.....no oxygen necessary. Mapp burns hotter than propane, though it costs more.

Example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...00KC/203368730


Quote:
MAPP gas is also used in combustion with air for brazing and soldering, where it has a slight advantage over competing propane fuel due to its higher combustion temperature of 2,020 C (3,670 F) in air.

+1 on the Stay-Brite tin/silver solder. Cheaper and more common propane can use used easily.
Last edited by AirDOGGe; Jun 23, 2019 at 04:27 AM.
Jun 26, 2019, 02:25 AM
Registered User
Apache Kemosabi's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by glgirvin
Hi Marco AC, Not knowing what tools and resources you have available, the best method of connecting cable to the stub shaft is silver soldering. It requires that you have an oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch. Low temp silver solder melts at 900 degrees so you have toe be careful not to get cable too hot. i have since used Stay-brite silver bearing solder that melts at 430 degrees. I use the element on my electric stove to heat up and tin the cable , then heat the stub shaft and put the two together. Both the cable and the stub shaft have to clean before doing the process. I hope this helps . Thank you Gary
Actually ive used loctite retaining compound for years to glue shafts and NEVER had one come apart , its been used for decades over in Europe ,no need for solder it does the job . Unless you have tried it you wouldnt know , ive used both methods and i wont be soldering any more shafts .
Jun 26, 2019, 09:20 AM
Registered User
The only time i used anything but Loctite these days is when you are joining a flex & stub shaft that are the same diameter ie 3/16" stub to a 3/16" flex. This needs to be soldered or low temp brazing. I prefer low temp brazing, I understand that Stay-Brite solder works ok but not plumbers or electronics solder as its not strong enough on the type of joint between 3/16" to 3/16" shafts. All of my other shafts including wire drives i prefer to use Loctite Retainer compound, its so quick & easy with great results & no risk at all to over heating the flex which can have bad results. When low temp brazing you need to keep the direct flame more away from the flex & more towards the stub shaft & let the heat transfer along the stub to the flex, its very easy to over heat the flex with a flame especially if you are not used to brazing flex shafts. Not as risky if you use Stay-Brite solder as its done at lower temps but you still need to watch the flame on the flex that you dont get it to hot.


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