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Jun 11, 2019, 03:59 PM
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Flying CP without stability/SAFE for the first time


Just recently got back into helicopters after a long hiatus , first heli was a Blade CX coaxial which cost me a fortune to keep flying and I just never got the hang of it. This time around I decided to give the Blade 230S V2 a go since it seems to be one of the best trainers currently. Learning how to fly in "Normal" mode has been great and my control has gotten 10x better, but its now time to stop using the stability crutch and actually learn to fly the thing. My first attempt at flying in "Stunt2" was wild and mostly out of control, after a few flights I felt like I could attempt a basic loop but ended up disorientated and instinctively slammed the throttle down (10+ years of RC fixed wing) to try to minimize crash damage (no no with CP, learn to use throttle hold) which with the stock throttle curve in stunt2 caused the heli to do a tail in auger . After repairing, I decided cool things down a bit and copy the throttle curve from "Normal" into "Stunt2" (0-25-50-75-100) and have found that for just getting the hang of non-stabilized flight ditching the the aggressive flat throttle curve makes it much less stressful as a beginner. That way, if I do freak and drop the throttle I don't smash the heli quite so bad. If you plan to do 3D I would guess you should only use this method to learn the basics of non-stabilized flight and move on to the stock recommendation for Stunt2 (85-85-85-85-85) ASAP to avoid picking up unwanted flying habits. Hope this is helpful for anyone just getting into the hobby and trying to figure out how to fly these wily beasts unassisted.

BAHM
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Jun 12, 2019, 10:16 AM
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When I was first learning to fly with stability mode off, I found it easier to take off already in stunt mode, rather than switch mid-flight. YMMV.

Warning - takeoffs may be a bit squirrelly at first.
Jun 12, 2019, 01:20 PM
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Helique's Avatar
Condition yourself to use throttle hold. With your throttle curve set to 0 (when you dump the collective) even though youíre cutting the throttle, youíre still giving the Heli full negative pitch which, depending on the orientation of the Heli, could be a bad thing. By using throttle hold, even though youíve cut power to the motor, you still have control over the collective.
Practicing on a sim is a good way to develop good habits, and to undue bad ones.

Regarding takeoff, best to get the Heli in the air asap, and avoid any cyclic input on the ground. For example, if you give a little right aileron, while on the ground, the gyros will sense that the Heli is not tilting, so it will overcompensate, which could cause a tip over.
Jun 12, 2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bahmtek
. . . After repairing, I decided cool things down a bit and copy the throttle curve from "Normal" into "Stunt2" (0-25-50-75-100) and have found that for just getting the hang of non-stabilized flight ditching the the aggressive flat throttle curve makes it much less stressful as a beginner. That way, if I do freak and drop the throttle I don't smash the heli quite so bad. If you plan to do 3D I would guess you should only use this method to learn the basics of non-stabilized flight and move on to the stock recommendation for Stunt2 (85-85-85-85-85) ASAP to avoid picking up unwanted flying habits. Hope this is helpful for anyone just getting into the hobby and trying to figure out how to fly these wily beasts unassisted.

BAHM
It took me a while to get up the confidence to go to Idle 1, with an almost-flat throttle curve. Before that though I found it useful to make my 'normal' throttle curve something like 0-65-75-80-85. This allowed me to keep the head speed up while using a small amount of negative pitch to counteract sudden downdrafts in gusty wind conditions, but retained the ability to shut things down with an instinctive zeroing of the throttle stick.
Jun 12, 2019, 03:35 PM
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Double post. Deleted.
Jun 12, 2019, 04:02 PM
Going back to balsa
Flying the 230s using a JR 9303 I've programmed it such that I can toggle from self-leveling to normal via the gear channel.

Thus the three position flight mode switch is independent. That setup give six options during flight.
Jun 15, 2019, 09:17 PM
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Thanks for all the responses, I will definitely give the listed methods a go. So far it has been a real challenge figuring how to make smooth turns without going off the wrong direction and getting unsettled haha. Really loving the challenge of flying CP helis though and the warm fuzzy you get when you finally pull off that even simple maneuver you've been practicing.
Jul 07, 2019, 05:18 PM
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I have my flight mode and curves on separate switches too. When I fly my 130s I have one finger under the throttle hold and one finger above the flight mode. I can quickly flip down to self levelling if it get in trouble, or flip up the hold if its dire emergency.
Jul 22, 2019, 12:17 AM
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430 mostly hovering and orientation flights on my nanoCPS got me to where I do not crash with normal flying anymore .... unless I am trying to do something new, like inverted, rolls and flips. I am now thrashing a NanoS2 to learn some of that, plus RealFlight when I can't get in the air.

I have quite a collection ..... the 230 S2 is one of my favorites to just do FFF, the 300 CFX is awesome, and as I learned on last landing, not too hard to repair - my fault, should have never attempt to land with wind in Normal Mode, Full Negative would have made it stick to my pad. I really need to stop collecting them as I have too many now. I would not take the constant throttle out of IU2, or IU1, if you ever get inverted, you will have no headspeed.

Get a nano, they are fun and don't crash as hard, just get some extra frames for the canopy pins you will be breaking, and an aluminum swash so when the OEM one fails on flight 2, you will be ready.
Jul 22, 2019, 03:20 PM
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Helique's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSport
Get a nano, they are fun and don't crash as hard, just get some extra frames for the canopy pins you will be breaking.
What Iíve been doing is gluing thin carbon fiber rods to the canopy pin arms for extra support. Iíve been using leftover wing spars of crashed micro airplanes.
Jul 22, 2019, 04:06 PM
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Yeah ... that's my plan, with either my current frame or a new frame, current would be after I move everything to one of the new frames en route. That looks like a nCPX frame, the S2 is different.
Jul 22, 2019, 04:23 PM
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Helique's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSport
Yeah ... that's my plan, with either my current frame or a new frame, current would be after I move everything to one of the new frames en route. That looks like a nCPX frame, the S2 is different.
Yes, I reinforced the new frame before assembly. Yes itís a cpx frame. Havenít seen the S2... hopeful itís more robust?
Jul 22, 2019, 04:47 PM
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Everyone thinks it is what the nCPS should have been, I can agree, but the nCPS is what took most of my learning hurts. We have a decent discussion in the S2 thread, problems, fixes, etc.
Last edited by SilverSport; Jul 22, 2019 at 04:54 PM.
Jul 23, 2019, 01:37 PM
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Another vote for getting used to using throttle hold. Your story brings back memories.

FWIW, I learned CP on Nano CPSs and MCPXs. If nothing else, they are very crash resistant and easy to repair.
Jul 26, 2019, 12:07 AM
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Helique's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prawnik
...FWIW, I learned CP on Nano CPSs and MCPXs. If nothing else, they are very crash resistant and easy to repair.
Man, if you can fly a micro, you can fly anything. My current Heli is a Trex 470LM... itís SO much easier to fly than the Nano. Of course itís much faster but so much more stable. If I could afford to go bigger, I would, but the cost of the big batteries is too much for my budget.


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