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Jan 29, 2020, 04:00 AM
Citius, Altius, 3D
3dxspin's Avatar
@guliver33

Nice!

I guess it also may be possible to adjust the height of the lid to make room for any BMS circuitry (if necessary).

Note: The standard lid is not adapted to fit the nut for the charger port.

Regarding the drain current:

Yeah, it might be a non-issue but ideally you should not store a battery fully charged or fully drained for longer periods of time. This means that you will need to charge the battery much more frequent to keep it close to the recommended storage voltage. If the drain current is kept low enough i.e. ~ 10 uA you could leave the battery without occassional charging without worries (other than risking the transmitter becomming obsolete ).

I will post STL files for charging lids later .

Cheers!
Last edited by 3dxspin; Jan 29, 2020 at 10:05 AM.
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Jan 29, 2020, 11:34 AM
Citius, Altius, 3D
3dxspin's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dxspin
@guliver33

I will post STL files for charging lids later .

Cheers!
Attached are STL files for lids intended for a built-in charger (see one of my previous posts). Please note that the lids are still work in progress. I have also attached a simple diagram showing one solution for the discussed circuitry dicconnecting the charger when not externally powered (tested and the drain current becomes less than 0.1 uA).
Feb 05, 2020, 08:30 PM
Hot glue will fix anything!
Uksteve's Avatar
I don't know if anyone has already done it but a back door which is the same slide in type as the stock but with a bulge to allow a large lipo or li-ion pack to fit would be a good thing to have, with enough depth you could fit a very decent battery capacity in there in the form of a 2s 2p pack
Feb 05, 2020, 09:04 PM
KC
KC
Registered Loiterer.
KC's Avatar
I found this on Thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811260

Feb 06, 2020, 09:03 AM
Hot glue will fix anything!
Uksteve's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by KC
I found this on Thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811260

Thats exactly what I'm talking about!!

Looking at that, it may even be possible to fit a 2s 3p inside with lipos but a 2s 2p using 21700 5000mah cells would provide more than ample capacity @ 10,000mah!

I've literally just ordered a 3d printer, right now I have no clue about doing anything 3d printed but I will be definitely checking that out thanks
Feb 09, 2020, 03:36 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uksteve
Thats exactly what I'm talking about!!

Looking at that, it may even be possible to fit a 2s 3p inside with lipos but a 2s 2p using 21700 5000mah cells would provide more than ample capacity @ 10,000mah!

I've literally just ordered a 3d printer, right now I have no clue about doing anything 3d printed but I will be definitely checking that out thanks
Do you really go through that much power during a day of flying?
Feb 10, 2020, 02:28 PM
!= International Arms Dealer
visioneer_one's Avatar
some external modules can be quite the little power-hogs

besides - transmitter battery power is one case where it is better to have and not need versus the inverse
Feb 10, 2020, 03:49 PM
Gliders ain't drones!
Zenmaniac's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by visioneer_one
some external modules can be quite the little power-hogs
Why? How much more? You say "some", so which Jumper external modules are the power-hogs?

I'd like to know if I have a power-hog in my Jumper.

-= Dave
Feb 10, 2020, 03:51 PM
OpenTX core team
3djc's Avatar
Things like 1 or 2 watts 900mhz (r9m, crossfire,...)
Feb 10, 2020, 04:31 PM
Gliders ain't drones!
Zenmaniac's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3djc
Things like 1 or 2 watts 900mhz (r9m, crossfire,...)
Oh, so he's not talking about the stock Ender 3 external multi-module.

I get it.

-= Dave
Feb 10, 2020, 05:32 PM
Registered User
Bob AZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uksteve
I'm waiting for all my stuff to arrive before I take the back off mine and I'll do it all in one go.

The internal multi protocol is getting better quality RG178 coax and changing to an RP-SMA socket and MUCH better RG58 coax from that to a RY-2.4 amplifier or I may do away with the middle connections and feed the amp directly from the multi board with RG178 for less attenuation.

I've searched high and low but can't find ready made cables or even ipx connectors on thier own for RG316, that would be my choice of internal cable if it were avaliable, I cloud always solder it directly to the board and do away with the ipx connector altogether though

Im also installing an internal charger, I'm going to be using a 2s balance charger and instead of the two 5mm red and green leds, I will be using a single 3mm dual red/green led and it will be green when charged and turn orange when charging.

The charger will be charging 5000mAh 21700 cells, I have a protection board from an old 800mAh 2s pack so I might as well wire that into the cells for added security although the chances of ever having a problem are minimal.

I'm tempted to shield the flight mode buttons to get rid of light bleed but it involves going so deep in the disassembly that I'm still undecided.
www.rcbatterykit.com
Feb 10, 2020, 05:45 PM
casual park flyer
52Sabre's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob AZ
Don't let ooOoo see that.
Last edited by 52Sabre; Feb 10, 2020 at 06:09 PM.
Feb 16, 2020, 06:04 AM
Registered User
MartHR's Avatar
--.
Feb 26, 2020, 05:50 PM
RC'er
Smalltimer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob AZ
Very nice!
Feb 27, 2020, 04:00 PM
RC'er
Smalltimer's Avatar
Just found a v2 upgrade kit, including a new foldable handle, usb-c connector and internal charger

https://graysonhobby.com/jumper-t16-...play-5737.html


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