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Jun 05, 2019, 07:04 PM
sharkman
Thread OP
Build Log

3D Labprint Cessna 152


It's been awhile since I posted anything due to so much of my focus and fascination with 3D printing. I've tried to make all kinds of airplane parts and had about a 50/50 success rate. I designed and printed a nice scale Fw-190A spinner for my GWS-190A foamy. I printed some wheel pants from a 3D Labprint download for an Slick 580 50cc that I scaled down and put on my GP Rav4.

So, after trying a few scratch builds and having a few balsa kit builds behind he and learning a lot about the tried and true methods of doing things, I decided to it time to get a bit more modern. Now, let me say this, I'm not anything near artistic nor am I any kind of designer so when I've tried to do things in the past nothing ever came out quite as well as I wanted it to. So, with the use of an inexpensive (under $400) 3D printer (Tevo Tornado) I've decided to take a crack at printing out a few planes. I've downloaded 3 aircraft that I purchased from 3D Labprint and I've decided to build the Cessna first since I don't have any tricycle planes in my hanger.

I have already tried to print out formers from plans and glue them together with PETG but I made the formers way too heavy plus there was just too much flexibility. So, I've gone to ABS. I know that 3D Labprints state not to use ABS, but I've used ABS for years on gas and electric planes and never had a problem. My only thought is the de-laminating issue which I believe can be rectified with vapor polishing. I have successfully polished a few pieces with acetone, but since I switched to ABS Pro, acetone won't work anymore. So I'm going to try MEK or Zylene. I know the MEK will solvent glue the ABS Pro pieces, but I don't want to add any more weight than I have too. BTW, the ABS and ABS Pro are so much lighter than the PLA or PETG, I really want to make this work.

I've been working with both Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 and 4.0.0 along with Repetier Host 2.1.3 and 2.1.4 with the Cura engine. I've been able to slice the STL files successfully with both slicers, but the UC leaves the surfaces very rough with lots of tiny and in some cases gaping holes. I'm currently printing with .1mm height for the sake of maintaining detail and the wall thickness at 0.5mm. I'm printing on the Tacon tape with the bed temp at 100C and the nozzle at 235 and 225C. At 235C, it is hard to get the pieces off, so I've switched to 225C which seems to be better. I've taken some photos of my progress so far now that I am finally get some consistent results.

Thank you,
Respectfully,
sharkman.
Last edited by sharkman; Jun 05, 2019 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Needed to change to a build log from a discussion.
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Jun 05, 2019, 07:07 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Tail feathers


Here are the tail feathers including the rear fuselage.
Jun 05, 2019, 07:08 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Ailerons and Flaps


Here are the ailerons and flaps along with the struts. I also include the front part of the main landing gear.
Jun 05, 2019, 07:11 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Cowl and Battery Compartment ...


I polished the cowl by sanding it and then polishing it with rubbing and polishing compound. The hatch was printed with PETG.
Jun 05, 2019, 07:14 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Fuselage Section 6 & 7


There are 8 total sections for the fuselage. I printed out sections 3,4, and 5 way too heavy at 1mm walls and .2mm height. I included the wing tips which I haven't polished yet.
Jun 05, 2019, 07:51 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Anomaly ...


This picture shows one of the design anomalies that occurs with 3D printing. Notice the lines through the wheel pant. This occurs as a result of the design where sections are created to provide a smooth curve.
Jun 06, 2019, 12:16 AM
If it flies, I can crash it.
rocketsled666's Avatar
Not an "anomaly" so much as an "artifact".

The file format used to send geometry to a 3D printer slicing software is called an STL. This type of file describes the object as a bunch of polygons consisting of 3 or more points (though typically only 3 or 4). The polygons are always flat (all points on the same plane).

When something is designed in CAD and the CAD software supports "curves" (not all do), the geometry will not be faceted. But when it is exported as a STL for 3D printing, the export operation converts the geometry to individual polygons and the smooth radius curves all become faceted.

This can be mitigated if the CAD program allows you to specify the "curve subdivision" level on the export and you've got the source model file. Alternately, you can convert the geometry in to a faceted version before exporting it, and the CAD program will almost certainly allow you to specify the subdivision level for this operation... If you don't have the original model file but you do have an STL someone else generated, and you know what you're doing, you can import it in to your CAD software and "smooth" the faceted surface to make it less-faceted when you print it. And failing all else, you can lightly sand a 3D print to get rid of some of this faceting. I have a heat gun (the kind used for soldering larger multi-pin components) I use to "reflow" the surface of a print I've sanded so it looks smooth again, unless it's ABS in which case a quick wipe with Acetone does it.

For something like that wheel pant, it's disappointing to see how faceted it is. It costs nothing to export it as more polygons so it looks smoother, other than that the file is bigger and it takes a bit longer to slice... but since this isn't a particularly large or complex part that wouldn't be a factor.
Jun 08, 2019, 01:42 PM
Registered User
Dennis H.'s Avatar
I too got the Cessna 150 from 3DLad, haven't gotten around to build it yet as I'm am new at 3d printing, got the alfawire U20 the other day, and will be using Cura 4.0 for my slicer, what are your set up for Cura 4.0?
Jun 20, 2019, 05:25 PM
sharkman
Thread OP
Sorry for the long delay. Been trying to get the configuration set right for PLA. I've been printing with ABS and switched to PLA to see if my prints would look any better. Not a lot of difference. I've attached my current configuration is anyone is interested. I've completed printing out the landing gear, tail feathers and fuselage. I'm adding pics in the next few post. My biggest concern right now is stringing. I've turned off Z hopping again. I've tried different configurations, but seem to keep running into issues where the print loses a layer for some strange reason. I've researched this on line and tried a few things with varying results, but nothing perfect yet. Anyways, I'm printing out R1 right now for the wing so I'll be printing out the wing over the next couple of weeks. Here is the *.3mf file. It's in a 7 zip format so you'll have to unzip it. Sorry.

Thank You,
Respectfully,
sharkman.
Jun 20, 2019, 05:28 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Nose Wheel Attachment


This is the nose wheel fuselage pieces. As a single piece, it snaps into place under the battery compartment. This seems like it might leave F2 a little weak, but hopefully, it will hold up even in rough landings. The only thing about the nose wheel is that it requires a separate servo. Not thrilled about that, but it's OK. I can deal with it.
Jun 20, 2019, 05:30 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

main wheels fuselage pieces


These two sections also snap in under the cabin. The cabin pieces seem to be pretty strong so I figure as along as the landing is gently flared a bit, nothing bad should happen, I hope.
Jun 20, 2019, 05:34 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Fuselage Section 3


Here is section 3 with all its hair. This piece took until 2am to complete. It is the longest piece to print now matter how I configured Cura.
Jun 20, 2019, 05:36 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Fuselage Section 4


Here is section 4. It's a bit less stringy. I tried a few different settings to try to alleviate the stringing as much as possible. Mainly, I changed the retraction from 6mm to 10mm and the speed from 70mm/sec to 100mm/sec.
Jun 20, 2019, 05:43 PM
sharkman
Thread OP
I managed to print section 5, but the rod guides got plugged up. I tried to clear the guides with a piece of music wire the same diameter using my dremel too and the plastic got too hot and some of it melted. I changed to my cordless drill and was able to unplus the other guide without melting the plastic. I had to do the same thing after printing out sections 6, 7, and 8 but didn't have the melting issue since the were printing in ABS. Here's what the fuselage looks like all stacked together. I did glue section 2, 3 and 4 together and then stacked the rest of the fuse together just to see what it looked like and how big it is. I also had to make some little trianges to put into the guides where the top little pieces did not print well and fell off. Here's a picture of what I am talking about.
Jun 20, 2019, 05:55 PM
sharkman
Thread OP

Nose wheel assembly


Here's the nose wheel pant with the wheel installed. I don't like using plastic on asphalt so I used one of my existing foam wheels. This one is 2.25". The ones for the main wheel pants will be less than 3". Probably 2.75". Also, I glued the spring onto the nose wheel pant shaft but not the steering arm yet. I'm trying to decide if I should drill a hole and use a screw or just glue it with some ABS glue I have. Maybe both would be good. Here's a few pic of the nose wheel in the fuselage piece along with a top shot of where the steering arm goes and the steering arm.


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