My problem on big pieces using Ultracote lite is when I am 95% finished the remaining piece either permanently sticks to itself or sticks to the other side of the wing that is already finished thus requiring a redo. The actual covering procedure is easy. It appears Corky doesn’t allow any extra material thus reducing the chances of the “sticky” incident. I ordered another two rolls of parklite and a new heat gun and will try again when I get the order.

Meanwhile, I got the turnigy D56LV servos installed. They interfered with the floor so I cut out little openings in the bottom piece. Then I saw that the servos did not penetrate the floor completely. So I added some 1/16 balsa and then sanded them flat.

Steve P

Originally Posted by Steven Pituch

My problem on big pieces using Ultracote lite is when I am 95% finished the remaining piece either permanently sticks to itself or sticks to the other side of the wing that is already finished thus requiring a redo. The actual covering procedure is easy. It appears Corky doesn’t allow any extra material thus reducing the chances of the “sticky” incident. I ordered another two rolls of parklite and a new heat gun and will try again when I get the order.

Meanwhile, I got the turnigy D56LV servos installed. They interfered with the floor so I cut out little openings in the bottom piece. Then I saw that the servos did not penetrate the floor completely. So I added some 1/16 balsa and then sanded them flat.

Steve P

I do cut extra length but I trim it before going to the other side. I had the same situation with the servo height sorting out servos for the electric and just put 1/16 spacers on top the tray to take up the little bit of gap. That also provided for meat for the screws to secure to.

Originally Posted by CloudSniffer

I had the same situation with the servo height sorting out servos for the electric.......

I figured that after reading your build log notes twice. I decided to keep the servos low because they looked too high as it was. I was surprised that they only partially interfered with the bottom allowing a decent patch. As it was I had to also carve away on the top plywood like you did to allow the servo arms to function.

Using some goofy servos (3 different ones) for everything. I'll take some pics and give the info I have when I get a chance
Cary

It’s strange that the 5.6 gram D56LV servo is so tall.

Just a warning. I was trying to pry out one of the servos up off of the mount and I ripped the top casing piece off and the gears went everywhere. I noticed the top is held in place by only two screws that are very small and too short so they don’t grip the top piece too well. Luckily I bought some spares.

I recommend the frsky G-RX6 receiver. It’s 2.9 grams, has increased range, and has a high accuracy vario built in.

Steve P

This morning after two days of rain after 8 months of drought the wind started at 1 mph so I test tossed the 1.5 meter. But after awhile it was gusting so I’ve delayed turning the motor on.

I used 3 #10 washers in back of the Vlad 25 mm prop yoke. I still had to cut 5 mm off of the nose. The plywood ring now goes around the motor so I had to sand it to increase it’s ID. I may have done it wrong but it seems to be working.

Steve P

Corky, everyone who has built and flown the E model 1.5m YJ. What are you finding for a good starting CG. Mine is ready for maiden, maybe tomorrow if the weather permits here in the PNW.
Thanks for any info.
Cary

Originally Posted by QuadFlopper

Corky, everyone who has built and flown the E model 1.5m YJ. What are you finding for a good starting CG. Mine is ready for maiden, maybe tomorrow if the weather permits here in the PNW.
Thanks for any info.
Cary

I have determined the CG on the plan is really good. If you get off much it makes a big difference. I think it says 2.25"

Thanks Corky.
Cary

Hi All,
You know how much trouble I had with the UC Lite sticking to itself. I slowed down the next day and was able to cover the 1.5 m YJ, but it wasn’t easy. Anyway I might have done something lame, but I went out and bought 1000 SF of laminating film. It was pretty cheap and thus it sort of seduced me. It’s 1.7 mm thick which is what I measured about UC Lite to be.

I’m in the middle of choosing my next YJ kit ( I have three). I got desperate in my isolation last week and I pulled out a kit (which will go unnamed) and started building it. Then I pondered what colors to cover it with. I started with SM transparent red which is a favorite of mine. It went on the center wing panels. For the outer panels I decided to try UC Lite transparent white which is very visible against blue and gray skies. This time I just put it on the bottom side of the tip panels. In order to get more light into the wing I used the laminating film on the top.

I love this stuff! I did use Mod Podge on the outer areas before putting on the film. It was the quickest film install I have ever done. It shrunk up really well and stretched really nicely over the wing tip. It is milky white until you add a little heat and then it goes crystal clear. I like how it looks with the UC transparent white beneath it.
I’d like to do an entire plane with it. I’d say it’s perfect for 2 meter and smaller. I guess it is slighter harder (stiffer) to the touch than the UL Lite next to it.
I thought you all would want to know.
Steve P

sorry dup. I can’t delete.

Nice work Steve!!

How is the weight compared to U/C lite, and what is Mod Podge for those of us that don’t know?

Cheers

UC Lite is listed as weighing .12 oz/SF. I took a scrap of the lamination film and it weighed “roughly” .13 oz/SF. The lamination film is gloss and clear. I measured the thickness of the lamination film and various UC Lite samples. They all came out to be 1.5 mils on my caliper. I am guessing the lamination film is slightly lighter because it is devoid of any color and the glue is not known to be super strong. The lam film comes in two 500 foot rolls, which is a minimum order. It was $41.73 US to my door which is less than the cost of 3 UC Lite rolls here and is a lifetime supply for several people.
Mod Podge is a famous decoupage glue. It can be used as a glue or a top sealer. It is available in any craft store in the US. It looks like Elmer’s White glue. I am guessing it is mainly a high grade PVA (poly vinyl acetate). In 1959 PVA was first used in artists high quality water based gesso used to isolate oil paints from contaminating the canvas. It eliminating any cracking that oil based gesso had caused. PVA is used in water based glues and paints. Just painting a light coat on balsa wood or plywood or fiberglass gives plenty of adhesion for any covering. It can be used like Balsarite.
Mod Podge is now being used to seal foam wings of remotely: piloted vehicles (YouTube), instead of epoxy resin. . Also lamination film is most commonly used in our hobby to cover foam wings probably because it can be applied at lower temperatures.
The product is: TruLam. 1.7 mil 12” x 500’ adhesive backed. And glossy, #P17G121. - 2 rolls. The vendor is Lamination Depot, which is on the web.
Since it is clear John Woodfield dyed his frame various colors before applying the clear covering (YouTube.

OB-2. Maiden Flight. This model had the bare balsa airframe coloured then covered in transparent (4 min 43 sec)

). The lam material feels just like UC Lite in which case it can be painted.
Regards,
Steve P

Excellent clear response. Thanks Steve!!

Last winter I scratch built a 1.5M Larry Jolly hand launch (Flinger). A friend gave me some 1.5mil laminating film. I read somewhere you can spray paint the glue side and then use it like regular covering material. The picture showed how it turned out. The paint didn't seem to affect the glue

The orange (wing and tail) is painted laminating film, the blue is UC lite. Before painting, the 1.5mil LF weighed the same as UC lite. I think I went a little nuts on the paint, so my orange stuff is probably heavier than it needs to be. The real beauty of LM is it's stiffness and puncture resistance. It's pretty tuff stuff. The free flight and old-timer guys use it, then dope tissue on top of it. They say it gives an old-time look, but much stiffer and tougher.

I'm thinking of re-covering my 3M YJ with it. Over the past 2 years of contest flying it's color is fading and the bottom of the wing has been punctured a bunch of times.

- Mike