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Feb 17, 2020, 07:38 PM
Registered User

Wing's tip fold inward


About a minute after the launch, the left wing tip fold inward about 6 inches but still flyable with left circle, so I landed.
The next flight after several minutes, both tips fold inward but after I did left-right-left-right turns, it popped out and never fold again within that last flight.
The wind was only about 5 mph and flying weight was 1.7 kg.

What needs to be adjusted?

Thanks,
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Feb 17, 2020, 07:57 PM
Registered User
Denisesewa's Avatar
More weight in my experience 2.0 to 2.5 kg in any wind, also make sure the nose is pointed down a bit
Feb 18, 2020, 07:40 AM
Registered User

4S battery???


Hi all, could I use 4S batteries in this Paramotor? Anyone has tried? I´ve seen just one post in this thread regarding this matter but nobody has confirmed.
All I can see in the HK specs is that 3S is recommended, the ESC is up to 6S, but no max. volt. specs for the motor.
Thanks.
JM
Feb 18, 2020, 07:46 AM
Way to much free time!
CorvetteC5's Avatar
Yes, one can use a 4S battery. However to keep amperage in check the prop must produce less load from less diameter and/or less pitch, naturally. Change it. Measure the changes with your favorite watt meter and monitor temperatures for the first several flights. Good luck experimenting!
Feb 18, 2020, 01:40 PM
Registered User
I have tested both 3s and 4s with my wattmeter. Both stayed well within the 60Amp ESC limits. I tested the OEM prop and an APC 10x5.

Regards
Dennis
Feb 18, 2020, 03:34 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rd Try
I have tested both 3s and 4s with my wattmeter. Both stayed well within the 60Amp ESC limits. I tested the OEM prop and an APC 10x5.

Regards
Dennis
I run mine with a 3s 5000 hard case pack - nice weight (and durability!)

Cart runs about 1850 grams now and does fine up to 8mph winds. I don't like to fly in anything over that.
Feb 20, 2020, 01:31 PM
Registered User
R. Nordeck's Avatar
On Spektrum transmitters (DX8 G2): Does anybody know how to move brake / elevator trim to the knob ??
Feb 20, 2020, 02:05 PM
Registered User
Here is what I did:

First assign AUX3 to Knob. Second I use Mix 7 for AX3 --> AIL: Mix 8 for AX3--> ELE as seen below. This knob will turn BOTH arm for brake adjustment.

I also use 2 more Mix Mix 5 and Mix 6) for the left and right Sliders to separately trim each side of the brake. I plan to use this temporary to find the right spots, then I will adjust the lines. Simply because you may touch the sliders by accident and the trim will be off.

You may have to play with the numbers in Mix to suit your setup.

Afterward, once you find the right spots for your brake trim, you may want to assign this to a 3 position switch for spot on trimming. This is because the knob is step-less and hard to memorize the exact spots.
Feb 20, 2020, 04:06 PM
Registered User
R. Nordeck's Avatar
Thanks tanasit,
Those mixes worked great but like you mentioned the stepless non click knob is difficult to use for precise control. I think I do prefer the ratcheted clicks of the elevator trim tabs because 6 clicks gives me exactly 1/8" of additional brake trim pull.

Kan't wait for Spring and/or for our 3' snow to melt
Feb 22, 2020, 10:14 AM
Registered User

LuteFisk wing plan match up?


RE: Post #271

I hang the wing upside down from the ceiling and check the line length as per the plan.
Here is what I found:
1. The length of the A Lines marked 1-1 to 1-4, 2-1 to 2-4 and 3-1 , 3-2 are all "almost" right on.
2. The length of the A Lines marked 1, 2 and 3 are all SHORT by about 10-20 mm.
3. Same for the B Lines.

Now come to think about this the Top Lines all have correct length per plan but the Lower Lines are well short.
But if they are all short by the same SMALL amount, question is, "Will this still be okay if the all lower lines are short by the SAME amount?"
Since I flew it numerous times but like I mentioned earlier with wing tips fold inward and wing collapsed a few times.
I will fly some more and see if the fault caused by other factors, otherwise I will fix the length as per the LuteFisk plan.
Feb 22, 2020, 10:26 AM
Registered User

Line of my choice


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I picked the 65 lbs 4 strands multi-color. The diameter is 0.42 mm which is perfect for repair.

Below is the thicker one: 8 strands 0.8 mm which is also good for HK wing repair but too thick for my Opale wings but perfect for Brake and Speed lines.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have zero stretch and better off cut with the lighter or sharp utility knife because the scissors will not cut it!! (not clean cut if you manage to cut it)
Tie with single overhand knot and will stay put.

If interested send me PM with your address and I will put several yards in the envelop for you.
Feb 23, 2020, 12:38 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by R. Nordeck
On Spektrum transmitters (DX8 G2): Does anybody know how to move brake / elevator trim to the knob ??
Save yourself the trouble and buy a mixer from hacker or esprit. They work great and allow you use your trim normally
Feb 23, 2020, 08:01 AM
Way to much free time!
CorvetteC5's Avatar
tanasit,

My HK sail also does not match the Lutefisk design in string lengths. I checked this because my paramotor would not fly straight, and I figured that the wing was twisted a bit. Instead of worrying about the Lutefisk reference design, I focused on matching the string lengths of the left-side and right-side of my HK sail. For a given location, if there was a difference of 1/8 inch, 3 mm, or more then I adjusted one side to match the other. I adjusted nearly 50% of them!

I did reference the Lutefisk design to determine if I should lengthen or shorten a side. As I wrote, my string lengths do not match that for the Lutefisk. Instead I used this reference design to understand the length progressions from row to row and adjacent lines. Anyway, after all this work my paramotor now tracks straight and is flying well.

Good luck with your rework!
Feb 23, 2020, 06:04 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorvetteC5
tanasit,

My HK sail also does not match the Lutefisk design in string lengths. I checked this because my paramotor would not fly straight, and I figured that the wing was twisted a bit. Instead of worrying about the Lutefisk reference design, I focused on matching the string lengths of the left-side and right-side of my HK sail. For a given location, if there was a difference of 1/8 inch, 3 mm, or more then I adjusted one side to match the other. I adjusted nearly 50% of them!

I did reference the Lutefisk design to determine if I should lengthen or shorten a side. As I wrote, my string lengths do not match that for the Lutefisk. Instead I used this reference design to understand the length progressions from row to row and adjacent lines. Anyway, after all this work my paramotor now tracks straight and is flying well.

Good luck with your rework!
Thanks.

In fact I did exactly what you did at first! All the first numerous launches, it will turn to the left, so I checked the line lengths. Of course, at least 3 of the left side ones were shorter than the right's. I chose for longer length. It flew but not well. Then I re-matched one by one.

Then the cold weather hit, so I decided to refer to the Lutefisk plan and found what I mentioned above.
I also studied the numbers and see how they progress/regress and found similar pattern to some degree on the lines from the front to the back.
All of which I did on the ground but later when I hanged the wing upside down from the ceiling my brain farted and mistaken the front from the back.
So I had to redo all the front which I thought was the back
So far I only have the C/D line left to do.

I have yet to find the proper way to tie the knots on the D-rings to the exact marks I made with the marker using no glue. I would miss 1 out of 3-4 times that was more than 3 mm. Yes, I can put it exact on spot but had to use the Bondic LED UV Liquid Plastic Welding that ran out so I just ordered the refill. In the mean time, I just did without it. And since I use muti-color lines, I used the matching colors for left and right.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: if use outdoor with sunlight (UV), it will cure but not as fast with the UV LED.

Just finish adding the Speed bar to my Opale 1.1 RS using 2 medium size servos with a servo reverser and y-adapter on the 4th channel. The Opale lines are much smaller than the HK one.

I also added the Speed bar to my Opale Oxy 0.5 with a single 9 gr. servo through a carbon tube with hole in the middle and it works great. I can fly this small one in somewhat windy day fine.

Still enjoy flying my Hirobo Paraplane Sport that I converted to brushless gear drive.
Last edited by tanasit; Feb 23, 2020 at 06:29 PM.
Feb 26, 2020, 07:12 PM
Registered User

Line ruler jig.


Line ruler jig.

As I mentioned earlier that the lengths of the lines on the HK sail are not consistent. So often time, I have to match the left to the right but getting the 2 lines with the exact same length, say with in 2-3 mm is not easy for me. This is because it is difficult at the point where you tie the end of the line to the D-ring with “slightly loose” loop. Those loops almost always vary depending on the way you tie as well as the type of line materials.
And since I plan to revamp all the lower lines, I need to come up with a helping tool.

At first, all I need is something that can help me make 2 lines of the same length BEFORE and AFTER I tie them on. However, along the way of my project, I came up with the tool that I can also use to measure the line length. Additionally when I look at those D-rings, I thought to myself that it would be much easier if I can just make the line with loop on both ends (bigger one for the top part and the smaller one for the D-ring) and with the D-ring that can open up. So once I tie the top end, then just pry open the D-ring and slip the pre-made small loop onto it.

To measure the length of the line:

Insert the aluminum peg on the left of the yard stick into the D-ring that contains the line to be measured. Then pull the copper sleeve back while holding the line to be measured along until you can insert the copper tip into the bridles (multi-loop where the line attached). Lock down the copper sleeve, remove the tool and there you have it: the “JIG” for that line.

Note 1. The width of the copper tip I set will compensate for the over-loop to the top part.
Note 2. Also the blade of the aluminum on the left has the proper width that I can just tie the knot fully and tight, then once it is transferred to the D-ring the loosely loop will all of the same proper size for any line I make.
Last edited by tanasit; Feb 28, 2020 at 09:27 PM.


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