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May 23, 2019, 07:13 PM
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@ETpilot - neat solution with the fuel tubing!

I find that I can't touch all the ribs and leading / trailing edge correctly in one shot i.e. I have to do some adjustments. This means I smear glue around. How do you deal with this?
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May 24, 2019, 05:58 AM
Registered User
Quick and easy method although not accurate. To get an accurate set, you need to space the individual rib blanks as shown on the finished wing panels. Root and tip ribs will always come out correct size but all the intermediates will be small. Thanks to the computer, easy enough to plot all the intermediates and print.

Regards Ian.
May 24, 2019, 07:23 AM
Registered User
I hope I can explain this somewhat clearly. Once the ribs are shaped I place them, properly spaced, on the wing jig using the plan as a reference. The plan is not attached to the table. The root and tip ribs are your key reference points. I place a square on the plan where the root rib meets the back of the LE. I then move the plan so that the square touches the root rib. I do the same for the tip rib. Once Iím sure these 2 point are correctly placed I secure the plan to the table.

Then I make sure ribs are properly positioned. I use a straight edge from root rib to tip rib and check how the intermediate ribs meet the straight edge. I place the square on the plan at the point where the rib meets the back of the leading edge. I check each rib to see how it fits and whether nose of rib is square. Most times, as I recall, it takes a little sanding to get things right. I also do the same and check each trailing edge point. Hope this helps.
May 24, 2019, 10:42 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harjit
In this picture, you have the ribs on the two rods and the leading & trailing edges rubber banded.

In the background I see white glue. How do you apply the glue?

Typically, I would apply glue to the edge face of the rib and then have it touch the component I am attaching it to.

Since everything is in position here, this isn't possible. So, do you apply it at the joint on each side with the idea being that the glue will penetrate and bond the two items? If so, do you clean off the joint with your finger or some piece of plastic so that there isn't too much of it hanging around, dripping?

I'm going to make a symmetrical wing and so am tempted to put together a fixture like this.

Some of your questions are more matters of personal choice and are not critical to structural integrity...… I use an all plastic syringe (available from craft stores) but a small brush or even a toothpick can be use to dap small amounts of white/yellow wood glue...…. https://www.walmart.com/ip/WoodRiver...eces/156192763

...but NO, do not apply glue to the outside surfaces of a joint, with the expectation that the glue will seep into the joint..... it's fine to trial position two or more pieces of wood to be glued up (eg. one leading edge, multiple ribs on a jig) and mark where on the leading edge you may want to add glue) but then remove the leading edge and add glue to the actual surfaces of the glue joint. With white/yellow wood glue you have plenty of time - 5-10minutes before the glue starts to set - to add glue at multiple points, position the parts together and apply pressure (eg. using dress maker pins)


Fillets of white/wood glue, on the outside of a joint, while emotionally reassuring, provide little if any strength.

Also, a small but important characteristic of solid wood: the end grain of wood, such as at the leading edge of the ribs, has open tubes that suck up an initial application of glue, leading to the possibility of a "starved" glue joint. A good practice in such situations is to also apply glue to the corresponding position on the leading edge piece and/or, first apply a coat of white/yellow glue to the end grain, let this glue sink in for a minute or two, then apply a second coat to the same end grain.


Michael in Ontario, Canada
Last edited by 2michaely; May 24, 2019 at 04:57 PM.
May 24, 2019, 11:19 AM
B for Bruce
BMatthews's Avatar
Harjit, the nozzle that comes on the bottles of white or yellow glue is geared towards big woodwork projects. For using these glues for model building I transfer the glue to some small 2oz squeeze bottles that have small holes on the tip. This makes it MUCH easier to meter out the glue and use the right amount.

I got my supply of such bottles years ago from a local plastics supply store. The store is gone now but you might find something suitable in your area. Or you can order up from Amazon or Ebay online. You are after something like 2oz HDPE squeeze bottles with tapered caps and the little red snap on caps for the tip. The darn things are sure not cheap. But they do come in handy in the shop.

Another short term option you might find works well is to just squirt out a small dime size puddle of the glue and then use a toothpick to transfer a drop at a time to the faces of the ribs or a spar notch. Spread it quickly and move on. Once all the glue is in place position the leading edge and use rubber bands or some other method to hold the part until the glue dries.


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