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Oct 16, 2019, 06:49 PM
Registered User
stuwe's Avatar
no filter function more a safety precaution. when you start using drone equipment for an airplane then the usually included 220 or 470uf caps are too weak in case of a drop. increase the "battery" volume to at least 1k in that config. i use more caps on other places of my power setup as well. to me the few extra grams are worth it for a stable power supply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynn203
Why the capacitor? - to clean up the video feed? I've been using the T-motor Heli 32 ESCs in fixed wing applications for a while - 8g for a 6S 55A burst ESC for $20 is hard to beat, I agree.
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Oct 16, 2019, 06:55 PM
Registered User
stuwe's Avatar
Matt - can't wait to see footage from the inside!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Halton
I've been busy again, now I've finished the canopy, plus I modified an existing P&T gimbal, but added a ply plate to fix the Runcam Split 2S board to, all good, I'll record some test footage tomorrow.
Oct 16, 2019, 09:38 PM
'Extreme Fabricator'
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuwe
no filter function more a safety precaution. when you start using drone equipment for an airplane then the usually included 220 or 470uf caps are too weak in case of a drop. increase the "battery" volume to at least 1k in that config. i use more caps on other places of my power setup as well. to me the few extra grams are worth it for a stable power supply.
I do the same, just never put ceramic caps in for this duty, they will kill boards.
If lc filters are used, always get the ones with a transient suppression diode fitted, or again spikes will cause damage.
Oct 17, 2019, 01:06 AM
Registered User
PaunFD's Avatar
I use electrolytic capacitors on all my birds, and i never had any issue with them, and some of the birds have logged (via mavlink telemetry) more than 1000 effective flight hours ... And i use to do with some of them aerial working (mapping or surveying, or some other tasks) at some respectable distance sometimes.
For a while now, i only fly long-range with my birds, and ... i guess that having those capacitors there contribute to the fact that i have yet to crash and loose a bird ...

I guess that having some capacitors on both 5V rail and main power rail, could not hurt. Of course, there could be implemented some more elaborate solutions like along-side capacitors to add a suppression diode, however i want to keep the things as simpler as possible while maintaining their intended functionality.
Oct 17, 2019, 02:13 AM
'Extreme Fabricator'
I always run one at the main distribution point of the 5 or 6v rail (at RX) around 2200uF.
I also use them with Liions to lower the source impedance to the esc, it makes them run much cooler and with better efficiency, more than making up for the few grams of weight.
Main rail caps need to be high spec genuine low ESR to work well, the fake Chinese rubbish is just useless junk providing no benefit. I have an ESR meter that tells some hilarious tales about Chinese 'imitation' low ESR stuff.
Oct 19, 2019, 05:20 AM
Lover of scale R/C
Matt Halton's Avatar
Went to test my camera install and got the dreaded LED 5 warning, steady red, means I've somehow fractured the ribbon cable on the 2S camera combo. I was super careful not to stress it too, but it clearly was.
So I've a new one here today or Monday..
Anyway I've just been installing servos etc instead, I need to use LG where I fly, so went to install it.
Noticed a lean on the nose wheel, so I attempted to straighten it, and without much pressure, it broke ( see photo)
I bent a new one with K&S rod I happened to have here, it was just a tiny tiny bit thicker, I couldn't get the collets on, so filed them out, this metal wasn't easy to bend, but I did it.
At least there will be no nasty surprises like it snapping on the first landing
Oct 19, 2019, 05:23 AM
Lover of scale R/C
Matt Halton's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuwe
thank you Matt. here i have a diagram that i made for a friend when we parallel built the binary. i hope this helps.
Many thanks for this, I'm using 2 x Furibee B-Heli's in mine, I can now solder the caps with confidence, thanks again
Oct 19, 2019, 10:47 AM
Maintain Thine Airspeed !
Redbrickman's Avatar
Wondering if I might try a landing gear like the Eclipson, maybe with a small spring instead of the rubber bands and larger wheels as our grass strip is less than perfect.

https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/model-y
Oct 19, 2019, 04:06 PM
Registered User
stuwe's Avatar
my pleasure - good luck with your project Matt!
i use the Holybro Tekko 32 - 35A. (waaay too much when you consider that 1 motor draws 4A in cruise and 16A max) I did some good tests with the telemetry even on Dshot1200. however there is still the old issue of iNav currently not supporting it. (only Beta and Ardu) and i do fly with iNav on almost all my boards. hopefully this will be only a question of time until this is solved so i've already wired my Binary to be "ready for the future"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Halton
Many thanks for this, I'm using 2 x Furibee B-Heli's in mine, I can now solder the caps with confidence, thanks again
Last edited by stuwe; Oct 19, 2019 at 04:28 PM.
Oct 19, 2019, 05:51 PM
Lover of scale R/C
Matt Halton's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuwe
my pleasure - good luck with your project Matt!
i use the Holybro Tekko 32 - 35A. (waaay too much when you consider that 1 motor draws 4A in cruise and 16A max) I did some good tests with the telemetry even on Dshot1200. however there is still the old issue of iNav currently not supporting it. (only Beta and Ardu) and i do fly with iNav on almost all my boards. hopefully this will be only a question of time until this is solved so i've already wired my Binary to be "ready for the future"
Yes the max current draw rated for my motors (Keda) is 15 amp, so I should be good.
Best thing is these ESC's are so light too
Oct 19, 2019, 05:54 PM
Lover of scale R/C
Matt Halton's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbrickman
Wondering if I might try a landing gear like the Eclipson, maybe with a small spring instead of the rubber bands and larger wheels as our grass strip is less than perfect.

https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/model-y
Nose gear looks good, love the springy suspension too, should make landings much nicer
Oct 20, 2019, 07:25 AM
AndreasL90
Some progress on my Binary build...
The Pan-Tilt-Unit for the Tarsier is finished (final assembly to be done), The Matek F765 wing is mounted (via 3D-printed adapters with M2 nuts) and the tail servo mounts (also 3D-printed to accommodate M2 nuts) for the Emax ES3302 have been glued in place.
Oct 20, 2019, 10:54 AM
Registered User
stuwe's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jabo
Some progress on my Binary build...
The Pan-Tilt-Unit for the Tarsier is finished (final assembly to be done), The Matek F765 wing is mounted (via 3D-printed adapters with M2 nuts) and the tail servo mounts (also 3D-printed to accommodate M2 nuts) for the Emax ES3302 have been glued in place.
Jabo i love your 3d printed stuff. looks good! one word on the gimbal.. i've tried many different types and configurations. the main issue i came across is some jittering during the flight especially with "cheap" servos. I've ordered 8x ES3302 and 6! of them were broken - just a small jump at the end of one turn. I usually let my servos run for 10min with a tester before i finaly mount them and only there i found out that they are not flawless.
it can be very disturbing when the pan servo starts to jitter during the flight especially at high speed.. therefore i only use high quality strong ANALOG servos for pan/tilt (Hitec HS-70MG) and let them run on 6V to get the maximum torque. I think the elevator servo is the most important one in a plane followed by the pan/tilt servos! imagine you're 5miles out and the 2 servos stop at their endpoint and start drawing power like crazy for whatever reason...
good luck and i hope you'll have no issues - i stopped using Emax for important functions.
Oct 20, 2019, 12:28 PM
AndreasL90
Thanks, stuwe!
First I had a HXT500 on the tilt axis of the Gimbal which suddenly started to get jerky. With the ES08-II I hope to have a better quality servo; let's see... I know some people who use Emax srvos, particularly the ES08 and ES09 line in FPV planes, DLG or F3RES gliders.
As far as I've seen, there are many fake Emax servos on the market. Therefore, I ordered mine directly from Emax. Also, I wanted to use analog servos, as my experience shows that digital servos don't seem to last as long as analog ones. I liked that the ES3302 have a bearing on the output shaft compared to the ES08.
Oct 20, 2019, 05:17 PM
Registered User
stuwe's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jabo
Thanks, stuwe!
First I had a HXT500 on the tilt axis of the Gimbal which suddenly started to get jerky. With the ES08-II I hope to have a better quality servo; let's see... I know some people who use Emax srvos, particularly the ES08 and ES09 line in FPV planes, DLG or F3RES gliders.
As far as I've seen, there are many fake Emax servos on the market. Therefore, I ordered mine directly from Emax. Also, I wanted to use analog servos, as my experience shows that digital servos don't seem to last as long as analog ones. I liked that the ES3302 have a bearing on the output shaft compared to the ES08.
Jabo, good point - i got mine from banggood - maybe that's the issue. i also went for them because of the specs that you list so in theory a good match. fully agree on the analogs. digital are also "nervous" and draw much more power - however i think there are conditions where you need the extra specs of the digitals but i never came across one so far happy flying


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