Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:32 PM
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"FREE" P-51 Mustang Micro R/C HOW TO BUILD THREAD


Don't wait to long to copy and save these "FREE" planes.

I think in October, 2011 this link is going to disappear.

http://users.joplin.com/~wcflyer/freedir.htm

Keep Them Flying ! , Your friend, Ken



Hi, Guys
This will be the hardest part, deciding which one you want to build. Go to the GymDandy Flyers web page, at http://users.joplin.com/~wcflyer/freedir.htm
an save the files to your computer and print the appropriate pages in color to size and scale. Now comes the first trick. Note: Take these pages to your local copy store. That has a color toner copier and have them recopied on the thinnest or lightest paper they can use. Ink jet prints tend to run and smug then they get wet. The color toner copy will withstand moisture and most anything else. It will cost a couple of dollars but to me well worth the price.
Last edited by Ken Spencer; Aug 27, 2011 at 08:44 AM.
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Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:35 PM
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Use the detail sheet to locate the lightning hole positions on your 1/32" balsa sheets used for fuselage and tail feathers. These holes are not mandatory but the lighter you build it the better it will fly.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:37 PM
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A homemade hole cutter can be made to produce any size hole. This one works great for me.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Note: how the paper and balsa sheets are notched, so easy alignment can be made when gluing later.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:41 PM
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Spray a 1/32" balsa sheet and back side of the copy paper with a good brand of spray adhesive. You may want to get a spray adhesive that is foam friendly, if you plan to use the wing profiles on foam wings as I do. Note: After aligning the copy onto one side the balsa surface, place a peace of wax paper over the copy paper surface and press them together till dry.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:43 PM
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After spray glue has dried trim around fuselage and control surfaces with an x-acto knife. Then separate elevator and rudder surfaces from horizontal and vertical stabs.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:45 PM
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At this point I like to run a black Sharpie marker along the edges of each part. This is not mandatory but it tends to give it a more finished look.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:47 PM
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Again repeat the spraying and mounting of the opposite side of each 1/32" balsa part. Note: After aligning the copy onto one side the balsa surface, place a peace of wax paper over the copy paper surface and press them together till dry. After drying trim excess paper away. The two paper sides laminated to the 1/32 balsa makes the profile quite strong and durable.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:49 PM
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Trim out for your motor setup at this time. Note: do not glue in place until wings have been installed.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:51 PM
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Your parts should be ready to start assembling at this time.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:53 PM
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Glue horizontal stab in place at this time. Note: I remove some of the copy paper to allow the two balsa surfaces to glue to each other on top and bottom of the horizontal stab.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:55 PM
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To attach the horizontal stab to the elevator surface I recommend a figure eight thread type hinge. This is accomplished with a small needle and thread. Start by penetrating down through the hormonal stab, coming up between the two surfaces, then penetrate down through the elevator surface. Again coming up between the two surfaces. Repeat this process for the desired length of each hinge.
Last edited by Ken Spencer; Feb 04, 2005 at 11:29 PM.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:57 PM
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After sewing process is complete, tighten each thread hinge and place a small drop of glue at each penetration point. Note: I use a glue like Ambroid, that does not wick down the thread.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 10:59 PM
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Now, glue the vertical fin in place. Repeat the figure eight hinge process for the vertical fin and rudder.
Old Feb 04, 2005, 11:01 PM
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Attach the landing gear by winding a thread around it at bottom of fuselage and gluing with CA. Add the wheels and your aircraft should start to look like this.


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