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May 10, 2019, 07:21 AM
He who stalls....falls!
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
BoC idea works great for stick mounts, but I have been using firewall type mounts for years as they make sorting thrust angles much easier on the new scratch designs I tend to sucker myself into. I have done a partial fix like his, though. I will squirt a blob of etc silicone or even hot glue on the wired as they exit the motor as that is the place where flexing drives the breakage, and is the toughest to resolder as wire breaks right at motor. The caulk/glue forces flexing away from the motor.
The fuz. on my first few scratch builds are of the "+" section profile type so will be firewalls.
(Yes the thrust is easy to set this method.)
Going to do the BB this style also.
Thought of dob of hot glue where wires run past edge of firewall, but the glue on motor itself sounds better.
Had the Blue (silver) Wonder running to check prop direction, good power from a motor so small!

cheers
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May 10, 2019, 11:12 PM
Registered User
Bgrem's Avatar
Thread OP
After replacing a HP printer that was out of warranty but, had only printed about 15 pages total, I printed out the tiled version of the 42" BB last night. This is on page 8 of the Blu Baby Primary Trainer build. The only drawing including the tiled plane parts was the drawing with the kf3 wing. I'm sure the kf wing will fly just fine but, I like the cambered wing better.

Near the bottom the list of choices for the 42" there is a tiled drawing for a "wing saddle".

file:///C:/Users/Administrator/AppData/Local/Packages/Microsoft.MicrosoftEdge_8wekyb3d8bbwe/TempState/Downloads/BB42%20UC%20Wing%20Saddle%20(3).pdf

Would this be the camber I'd use for a cambered 42? I think rolling the camber is going to go OK but, it would be nice to have the saddle marry-up just right. Will it?

I can't wait to see the kids all out there flying a couple or a few planes. I'm absloutely positive that a couple of the grandsons-in-law are going to want a go as well.
May 10, 2019, 11:44 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgrem
After replacing a HP printer that was out of warranty but, had only printed about 15 pages total, I printed out the tiled version of the 42" BB last night. This is on page 8 of the Blu Baby Primary Trainer build. The only drawing including the tiled plane parts was the drawing with the kf3 wing. I'm sure the kf wing will fly just fine but, I like the cambered wing better.

Near the bottom the list of choices for the 42" there is a tiled drawing for a "wing saddle".

file:///C:/Users/Administrator/AppData/Local/Packages/Microsoft.MicrosoftEdge_8wekyb3d8bbwe/TempState/Downloads/BB42%20UC%20Wing%20Saddle%20(3).pdf

Would this be the camber I'd use for a cambered 42? I think rolling the camber is going to go OK but, it would be nice to have the saddle marry-up just right. Will it?

I can't wait to see the kids all out there flying a couple or a few planes. I'm absloutely positive that a couple of the grandsons-in-law are going to want a go as well.
Is this what you're looking for ?
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=10495
May 11, 2019, 07:39 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
......
Last edited by balsa or carbon; May 12, 2019 at 01:07 PM.
May 13, 2019, 01:13 AM
Registered User
Bgrem's Avatar
Thread OP
AleRron, I have all the electronics. 10 years ago I read and read before building my first plane. My twin son would install all of the electronics and he listened well when it came to determining the CGs.

He flew the heck out of our planes. I destroyed a beautiful Super Cub after 5-6 successful flights. I didn't check rudder position. Took off and flew wide open into my brick house. I didn't really destroy it. I repaired it and gave it away. I've regretted giving that plane away ever since.

I'm gonna fly some of the planes we're putting together this time. I gotta get over the anxiety once I take the radio. You'd think I crashed a real plane the way it rattled me.

With y'alls great expert advice, it will be a much better learning curve this time ( I hope).

Man, it sure is wonderful to have you guys to rely on for everything we need to know. Thanks.
May 13, 2019, 02:26 AM
Registered User
PaulB's Avatar
Hi Bgrem (unusual, is that a christian or a surname ),

the 'angst' can be a real problem and hold you back, seen it in a lot of guys. No secret weapon or top tip here you just have to bite the bullet and get on the sticks. The annoying thing is that you run far, far more risk of causing damage be it of a financial or material nature every time that you get behind the wheel but I bet it doesn't bother you in the slightest when driving.

Although at this point in time the cutting, sanding and figuring it all out is taking a little time it will get proportionally quicker every time that you build or repair one so try to remember that it is only a few evenings worth of wielding a Kraft knife that you are risking plus a Dollar or two for foam. Maybe think about cutting a complete set of spare parts at the same time, cut 2 of everything and then you effectively have all could ever need to repair or actually build the second 'kit' in slow time so that you have a spare air frame because in reality, the down-time will probably be worse than the material damage. These things are tough and can generally be put back together jigsaw puzzle style very easily after even the worse 'whoopsy' but you can guarantee that on that evening whilst you are waiting for the glue to dry the weather will be perfect .

Good thing is that you have made an excellent choice with this model and you have a whole team of experts behind you (the guys who have already contributed) so success is virtually guaranteed.

One tip which I will offer would be to maiden the model on your own and try to TAKE YOUR TIME. I don't know your family and I am sure that they are a great bunch but I do know that 'spectators' always want 'instant action' and WILL create a distraction which you don't need first time around. Get both the model flown, trimmed and sorted as well as your head full of confidence and relaxed before you take the kids, far better chance of an enjoyable experience.

Good luck,

Paul

Latest blog entry: Just To Say Hello.......
May 13, 2019, 06:28 AM
Foamy and Glider fanatic
Blacky's Boy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulB
One tip which I will offer would be to maiden the model on your own and try to TAKE YOUR TIME. I don't know your family and I am sure that they are a great bunch but I do know that 'spectators' always want 'instant action' and WILL create a distraction which you don't need first time around. Get both the model flown, trimmed and sorted as well as your head full of confidence and relaxed before you take the kids, far better chance of an enjoyable experience
^^^^^This!!!

Wow, I cannot agree more! I find that maidens always go better when I'm alone and unencumbered by distractions

On a recent maiden I recently was injured by a pusher prop because I was stupid enough to allow myself to get distracted by a loud-mouthed spectator. I really should have planned my time a bit better so that no one was around. But I was anxious to fly this our weather recently was terrible and it was the only clear day in a two week period. I certainly learned my lesson that day.
May 13, 2019, 10:15 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Bgrem, ya just have to remember, it's only foam! The absolutely worst case scenario is you move all the gear into a new airframe. It's not like you spent evenings over 6 months gluing balsa sticks together, paying expensive monokote, etc. When foamies crash, if the don't just bounce, they break into big easily reglued pieces. Just assume up front that your first couple of builds will be repaired, and you may be pleasantly surprised if you don't have to do them! The other guys' point about maidening by yourself or with a trusted friend who will actually watch the plane to see what is happening is good advice.

Go for it!
May 13, 2019, 10:44 PM
Bradley

Stick mount??


I know that someone mentioned making a fire wall for this BB but this is the motor mount that it came with. I don't know how I would mount this motor to a firewall since this motor came with a 3/8 stick mount and no other way to mount it. This particular mount also has an offset to it which either has the motor positioned slightly low as shown. Can I just trim some foam to get enough clearance to keep the motor from rubbing the form? Or can the motor stick out past the front of the plane? I attached some pics to show you guys what Im dealing with here. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Last edited by grem62483; May 13, 2019 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Added question.
May 13, 2019, 10:55 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by grem62483
I know that someone mentioned making a fire wall for this BB but this is the motor mount that it came with. I don't know how I would mount this motor to a firewall since this motor came with a 3/8 stick mount and no other way to mount it. This particular mount also has an offset to it which either has the motor positioned slightly low as shown. Can I just trim some foam to get enough clearance to keep the motor from rubbing the form? I attached some pics to show you guys what Im dealing with here. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Is the wood stick already glued to the foam ? If so , I would pull the motor/mount off of the wood stick and turn it 180 so the motor is above the wood stick . It's better to have a high thrust line than a low thrust line , and it will also make prop-to-ground clearance easier .

If you use that type of motor again , you can get the direct ( no offset ) type of motor mount at Fancy Foam or West Michigan Parkflyers :
http://fancyfoam-com.3dcartstores.co...ount_p_62.html
http://www.wmparkflyers.com/Stick-Mo...Base_p_69.html
Last edited by balsa or carbon; May 13, 2019 at 11:06 PM.
May 13, 2019, 11:46 PM
Bradley
Thanks for the quick reply Balsa. No, I haven't glued it in yet. I wanted to wait until I heard back from you guys. I'll go ahead and flip it over. If I mount the motor far enough back, it does rub slightly against the fuse. Can I slide the motor forward to "clear" the front of the fuse? If not I just have to shave very little foam from the side panels to give it enough clearance. I will definitely use the mount you just mentioned on the next BB that I build for sure.
May 14, 2019, 12:51 AM
Registered User
Hey PaulB

My surname is Gremillion. My people are from the Normandy area of France. I have been using my son's account here and must now return to a form of my old username here. The new user name is bigolddude.

Keep an eye out for my posts. This old man can use all the help you guys have to offer.
May 14, 2019, 03:13 AM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by grem62483
Thanks for the quick reply Balsa. No, I haven't glued it in yet. I wanted to wait until I heard back from you guys. I'll go ahead and flip it over. If I mount the motor far enough back, it does rub slightly against the fuse. Can I slide the motor forward to "clear" the front of the fuse? If not I just have to shave very little foam from the side panels to give it enough clearance. I will definitely use the mount you just mentioned on the next BB that I build for sure.
You don't want any of the moving parts of the motor to rub on anything .

If you order one of those stick motor mounts from Fancy Foam or West Michigan Park flyers , take a look at the EPP foam trainer plane kits they have available . The Fancy Foam EzFly is in my opinion the best trainer available , and if you trace the kit's foam parts to make templates .... you can then use the templates to make additional EzFlys out of Dollar Store foam board . Here is a video of one of my EzFlys that was made out of Dollar Store foam board :


Copy of EzFly with under-cambered wing (1 min 57 sec)
May 14, 2019, 04:57 AM
Registered User
PaulB's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigolddude
Hey PaulB

My surname is Gremillion. My people are from the Normandy area of France. I have been using my son's account here and must now return to a form of my old username here. The new user name is bigolddude.

Keep an eye out for my posts. This old man can use all the help you guys have to offer.
Sorry, touch of sarcasm

I just prefer to use a name, seems more polite and friendlier.

Kind of got that you are (now) bigolddude but that was slightly confusing too trying to follow who of the 3 posters the person is who needs assistance and who of the other 9 - 10 are trying to help.

Anyway, Hi, I'm Paul, now stop reading irrelevant on here and get that BluBaby flying, everyone here wants to read about your Grandkids having a great time (Ok, you can too )

Paul

Latest blog entry: Just To Say Hello.......
May 14, 2019, 09:39 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
So grem and bigoldude are one and the same? Ok......

Going back to post #24, what you are going through with the stick mounts is exactly why I abandoned them for the "firewall" type using screws to mount the motor to light ply. If you cut the monoblock carefully to Tony's plans, the end surface you insert the stick into is at the correct angle for proper down thrust. Glue the ply firewall mount to the foam with gorilla glue white (or 5 min. Epoxy, but I think that's overkill) . You can get the mount for your blue wonder type motor by itself, or included with the motor from several places. I use servo screws to actually mount the motor to the ply- got a bunch left from when I glued the servos into fuse. If I find I need to tweak the thrust angle, washers under the mount are easy to do. Incidentally, you can get the 1/8" thick ply from your local craft store, dollar store, hobby lobby or michaels. Look in the plaque area.

Here's the mount/accessory kit: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hxt-2730...rop-saver.html

Here's the motor: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...or-1700kv.html

The 1700Kv is my favorite. Best flight range.

Also, back to post 24, if you flip the stick mount 180 the motor will be above the nose (outside the plane) gonna look weird. Trim the monoblock to clear the motor before flipping the mount.the foam below and forward of the mount surface is just to make the nose look more like a full size plane.
Last edited by springer; May 14, 2019 at 09:55 AM.


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