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May 07, 2019, 02:29 PM
Is everyone from California?
yaitsfast's Avatar
Thread OP
Discussion

Multiplex 4M ASW22


OK, I have always wanted a large scale glider. But as most that try things out, didnt want to spend big money. Bought this on here without seeing it in person, came from Florida. Now that I have gotten it home and unpacked this is what I have. My original goal was to have something that I could aerotow. I have not weighed this thing yet but it cant be light, and the nose is full of epoxied lead. I believe it is all as originally built. Speed breaks operate on piano wire, elevator operates off a crank in the tail, rudder is fairly standard. I would at the very least replace all the electronics, but thinking about doing more. I would like to attend some northeast areotows so a few questions....

Worth putting some time and money into?
Anyone know how to get the lead out of the nose so I can install a tow release?
Worth installing a retract? Not sure if a tug will pull it just on grass?
Whats a good weight for a 4M that will aerotow and thermal?
Will these wings hold up? Thinking about removing covering and rebuilding....
Fuse ok with the stress cracks by the joiners?
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May 07, 2019, 04:44 PM
Registered User

Worth putting some time and money into?

I think so! This was a quality Multiplex kit from the late 80's, and shares the Alpina wing from that era. It should handle well and provide good efficiency and a reasonable speed range.

Anyone know how to get the lead out of the nose so I can install a tow release?
Mmm, tricky although it you heat the nose by immersing it in hot water you may be able to soften the epoxy and prise out the ballast. Failing that, Dremel is your friend - but take care.

Worth installing a retract? Not sure if a tug will pull it just on grass?

I wouldn't unless you plan to tow off a hard surface. It's just a load of weight, cost and effort - and that fus isn't that big either. You could use a dolly to help take-offs.

Whats a good weight for a 4M that will aerotow and thermal? 8lbs - 11 lbs ideally in my opinion. Over that and it will be fine - just fly faster.

Will these wings hold up? Thinking about removing covering and rebuilding.... Probably worth flexing them gently to see if the cracks open up. If so, spar may be damaged. The spar is likely to be like a vertical wooden strip joining top and bottom skins. If it flexes badly, yes I would remove covering and check wing veneer, then dig deeper if necessary. Whatever you feel comfortable doing with your building skills etc.

Fuse ok with the stress cracks by the joiners? As long as the joiner tube can't escape the fus I wouldn't worry - the cracks are probably cosmetic.

I think you could end up with a lovely-flying glider, hopefully without much structural work. Have fun!

Rog
One last thing - double-check the tailplane bellcrank is not loose. That needs to be 100% reliable. Also, you could sink a couple of micro servos into the wings to operate the ailerons/airbrakes. Connecting them mechanically before each flight will be a pain. However you would have to route the cables along the wing which would involve peeling back a strip of veneer. You may not consider that worth the effort.
May 07, 2019, 06:44 PM
Just a collector
Billymac's Avatar
YES, put the time into it!
Fuse could use some paint after repairs, (do not use Lacquer paint, as it chips/ cracks easily) check out the wings and recover, so you know exactly what you're getting. You can get Callie Graphics to make a set of vinyl decal for you.

If you need instructions or the manual for this, let me know. I have one NIB.

After looking at the fuselage, those may be stress cracks as Rog says, but to be sure; shine a bright flashlight in the fuse and see if you can see any light through the cracks, by gently flexing the fuse.

It looks like something happened on the wing where that patch is. Put some stress on the wing and see what happens there. Might have been an earlier repair.

I think the L/G was an after thought for this one. But it could still be done. Makes takeoffs easier without a dolly. But it would take a lot of work to make happen, including cutting the doors out.

See if you can put the spoiler servos in the wing, and use the tube to pull wire out. A bit more complicated while building but in the end run it's easier than trying to reach in a connect the clevises in a very narrow fuse.

You don't have to make the tow release in the nose but instead make it an inch or two behind and on the bottom would be ideal. Just a little hole for the tow loop say about 1/8" or 1/4" in diameter.

As Rog says; check that bell crank in the tail fin, make sure it is sturdy You may have to pull the rudder post to see it.

I would also gut the cockpit area so you have some room to work and add the tow release. Maybe gut what's behind the canopy as well.

That's about all I can think of right now. Rog has helped me on my build of the DG-505 on RC Groups Scale section.
Please take lots of Pictures, as I am subscribed!

All the best,

Bill
Last edited by Billymac; May 07, 2019 at 06:51 PM.
May 10, 2019, 06:32 AM
Just a collector
Billymac's Avatar
Guess I scared him off with my suggestions.
May 12, 2019, 10:02 AM
Is everyone from California?
yaitsfast's Avatar
Thread OP
Ha, nothing scary about scale sailplanes I just work a lot during the week. Put the scale under the asw this morning. Both wings are identical, 1.92 lbs each. The fully assembled fuse is 4.93 lb. So if my math is correct thats a whopping 8.8lbs That tells me I have some room to work with weight wise and still have a nice sailplane for aerotow. No real slopes around here to speak of. So I think the plan will be paint the fuse, check and recover surfaces, new electronics, gut the nose and add a tow release, and maybe a retract.
May 12, 2019, 10:15 AM
Registered User
As mentioned, you don't have to put the release in the stock "scale" location. Just behind the lead on the floor of the fuse would be fine for aerotowing. One of the most sought after planes for scale GPS racing has it's release on the side and seems to tow fine. See video at :20


AN-66 Fineworx AMCE Enghien (maiden flight) (2 min 8 sec)
May 13, 2019, 11:20 AM
Voc
ANY Multiplex kit is worth the time. I have the ASW20 and the ASH26. Absolutely fantastic to fly. Majestic in the air and they don't mind a few loops and rolls.
May 13, 2019, 11:44 AM
DS will change your life
SpeedsterDEN's Avatar
Just make the tow coupling it like this
I use this on gliders from 1 to 6 meter span..
Working great

3 meter rc glider, tow coupling. (0 min 54 sec)
May 13, 2019, 12:17 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedsterDEN
Just make the tow coupling it like this
I use this on gliders from 1 to 6 meter span..
Working great

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx95jyrp2GU
I like to use some high quality 1/4" aircraft ply, one inch square will be plenty. Drill a 1/4" inch hole in the middle of the square plate of ply and a small push rod sized hole through the side of the plate that travels completely through the 1/4" hole and out the other side. Then just add the push rod and servo and contour the bottom of the plate to match the curve of the fuselage when glued in place. You can pre-drill the matching hole in the fuselage first, or use a flashlight to help you mark where to Dremel the hole from the outside. I like to Dremel it to cut down on the chance of the drill bit grabbing and tearing the fuse, plus I'm going to use the rotary tool to smooth the edges of the release hole anyway.
May 14, 2019, 10:02 AM
Is everyone from California?
yaitsfast's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks for the options guys. Certainly seems easier than getting all that Lead out of the nose. Is there any guidance on where exactly it needs to be front to back? jsut as far forward as possible?


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