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Jun 03, 2019, 03:26 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Wow I sanded off ounce even with the addition of the steel parts!

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Jun 03, 2019, 03:29 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Center rudder.


Find the center of the push rod groove and the center of the stabilizer and make a hole.
Then find the pivot point of the center rudder and make that hole.
Between the two, draw an ark and mark it for cutting.
Draw a line from the pivot point to the ends of the ark and remove the foam for the tiller arm of the center rudder.
Bond the center fin in place and avoid fowling the control arm with epoxy.
Be sure it is on the center line and 90 degrees to the stab surface.
Jun 03, 2019, 03:31 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

First rigging


The photos are out of sequence but belong here.
You could use epoxy to lock the wires to the control surfaces while you are bonding the hinges but there is a good chance something could go wrong.
I installed the surfaces and concentrated on getting the hinges right.
After that, the surfaces are aligned with their stationary portions and a hole is cut at the tip of the wire. Epoxy is put in the hole to lock it in place.
Note the use of tape to keep the trailing edges aligned.
Jun 03, 2019, 03:32 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
We have to cut the stabilizer to install the outer fins.
Start by making a pattern that matches the contour of the fins.
Transfer the line to the stabilizer and cut it loose.
Keep the pattern to use on the stabilizer tips.
Jun 03, 2019, 03:37 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Originally the plan was to make this part in one piece then it came to me that drilling three holes exact would be very hard so I went with three tubes.
The center tube is one size larger than the two outer ones so they can be adjusted and locked in place with CA.
The center tube gets smashed flat in the middle and the tips of the smaller tubes get the same.
The center tube has a hole drilled to connect to the center rudder tiller arm.
The smaller tube is slid into the larger tube thru the sides of the outer fins.
The outboard rudder tiller arm is then connected to the tip of the small tube.
I'm crazy, right?
Jun 07, 2019, 04:38 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Yeah, a little outside the box, but I like they way you solve problems.

J
Jun 08, 2019, 07:01 AM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Sparks, your build logs really help me dial in how to get things done. I bought your book way too late to help me when I built my wing, now I'm having to clean up some poor construction, specifically, inconsistent trailing edges. Joining top and bottom wing panels incorrectly got the best of me. My Martin 4-0-4 build wing was a "porker" while the fuselage is very light. Everybody building with this construction method should get your book! Thanks!
Jun 10, 2019, 12:32 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
I never get tired of watching an artist work!
Latest blog entry: RC events for 2019!
Jun 13, 2019, 06:53 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Thanks guys


The threads are really getting old.
They actually keep me from the field
I have made two planes since this one , A 1/3 scale BD5 and working a S-5 Viking.
What a relief it is not recording how its done.
Thanks to all that follow my threads but you can expect the next ones to be less detailed .
Jun 13, 2019, 06:55 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The last bit of monkey motion is the bell crank.
A simple set up really.
Drill a hole in the foam and fill it with epoxy and drop the assembled bell crank in the hole screw first.
There is just one problem.
The fork I cut in the end is too short and disengages at extreme left and right. I fixed it by making one that uses the same bushing but has a longer fork.
Jun 13, 2019, 06:57 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Now that they are all hooked up aligned all the rudders with their stationary portions (fair the rudders) .
Apply one drop of thin CA where the small tube slid into the large one.
Be very careful, thin CA melts foam.
Test the movement again.
Jun 13, 2019, 06:59 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Stab tips


To install the stabilizer tips simply hold them in their aligned position on the fin and move the rudders.
The tube end will leave a dent showing you where material has to be removed. ]
When you bond it in position avoid applying epoxy to the cleared area.
Jun 13, 2019, 07:03 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Window dressing.


Now that the assembly is done and everything moves I know you have questions.

What about the gap at the aft base of the center fin?
Cut a foam wedge to fit the gap and bond it in place.

The upright holes in the outboard fins are not covered, what is the fix?
I used a small strip of tape to cover the hole.
This will support the glass cloth while it is being applied and keep the resin away from the linkage.

I applied the glass cloth to the tail feathers in several steps over the next few days with small overlaps at the joints.
The schedule went something like this with one day in between : Stabilizer bottom, Stabilizer top. Left side of fins, right side of fins, stab tips.
Then 3 days of filling the weave.
Its a pain in the but in the end its all really cool.
Jun 13, 2019, 09:46 PM
Bronco Team Builder
Wade Joos's Avatar

Nice


Very nice
Nice clean work - as always
Jun 13, 2019, 11:02 PM
Registered User
tspeer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks
The threads are really getting old.
They actually keep me from the field
I have made two planes since this one , A 1/3 scale BD5 and working a S-5 Viking.
What a relief it is not recording how its done.
Thanks to all that follow my threads but you can expect the next ones to be less detailed .
I have your book, but I find this thread in particular to be really useful. I really appreciate the step-by-step details and the elements of this plane can be applied to a lot of other builds.


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