Thread Tools
May 14, 2019, 07:13 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Don't forget that while all this other stuff is going on I've been working on the fuselage filling the weave with epoxy and wet sanding as described in the book.
Now that the wing is getting the epoxy/ glass coat the fuselage is getting the leftovers.
This will happen again when the tail feathers get the glass; the wing will get the leftovers.
Its all little jobs that take time to cure or dry so don't feel bad about walking away for a day.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
May 19, 2019, 08:10 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Tail feathers.

The tail feathers take a bunch of time but not much space so the fuselage and wing glass work continued while I worked the next portion of the plane.
Starting with a sheet of ½ inch thick foam.
Lay the plans over the foam and poke holes thru the paper to leave the pattern in the foam .
It’s called pouncing and has been used by dress makers since before we were all born.
May 19, 2019, 08:12 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP


When I designed my Mohawk I skipped rudders because I was afraid it would make the model tail heavy.
This was a mistake because with three fins, weathervane during the takeoff roll is a problem.
Not to make that mistake again I gave the constellation all 5 rudders.
There is some monkey motion back there and its not easy to arrange but it is very light weight and I’m glad I went to the trouble.
May 19, 2019, 08:14 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Cut up the tail feathers and add the balsa liners to the hinge lines and gaps.
Notice that the control surfaces have thicker balsa strips at the hinge line so you can sand the “V” shape to give the hinge clearance.
There are 17 parts in all , group them together and mark the edges for identification .
I use color markers.
May 19, 2019, 08:16 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Use a sharpie pen to draw a center line around every part.
Playing cards make good shims for this step.
Just for fun I wanted to see what the starting weight is for comparison.
May 19, 2019, 08:22 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

sheet cutting

Today I had to cut foam sheet stock for another project.
Using parchment paper on the table surface makes it easy to produce smooth trouble free cuts.
I found that I could use lower temps and lighter weights since the foam slides much easier.

Thanks You for the tip Goldguy
(See post 18)
May 22, 2019, 04:23 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Wade steered me here, didn't know you were doing a thread on the Connie. Awesome work as always!

May 22, 2019, 09:43 PM
When cows fly!
I always try to use a Bud Light can as reference when doing pics. Of course by the time that I am taking pictures, the can is empty
May 25, 2019, 04:02 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP


Time to use that little torch you bought.
I bent up the wire and silver soldered the control linkage for the control surfaces.
Regular solder would work but I didn’t want to take the chance of it coming loose.
Just be sure to sand the wire clean before going for it.
The two forks to the right is for the outboard rudders and the rake shaped part will move the elevators.
May 25, 2019, 04:05 PM
Bronco Team Builder
Wade Joos's Avatar


You use real silver solder or the stuff called "StayBright"?
May 25, 2019, 04:06 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Lets work the rudders

First we have to establish hinge lines.
I sanded the hinge “V” shape in the outboard rudders as a pair, this ensures they will travel the same distance without interfering with each other.
The fin is dry fitted and a center line is established between the stationary parts.
This one is off a bit and had to be reworked on the other side.
The fork is placed on the center line and the fin is marked for drilling.
May 25, 2019, 04:09 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
With the drilling complete the stationary portion of the rudder is bonded to the fin with the fork trapped between them.
Be sure to coat the wire with wax to prevent it from bonding in case you get sloppy with the epoxy.
A few drops will do fine here.
Note the L shaped slot in the fin, this will be filled later with foam scrap.
May 25, 2019, 04:11 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Time to shape the fins.

Apply masking tape to the fin to lock the rudders in place and sand a curve in the surface.
Flip the fin and sand the other side to make them match.
Note that the top of the fin tapers to about ¼ inch.
Rubber gloves will help you with your grip
May 25, 2019, 04:13 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP


My book “Building with foam” covers many ways to make grooves, slots and channels in foam so I don’t have to get into this.
Here I use a drill press, straight edge and rotary file to cut a channel for the rudder push rod.
Jun 03, 2019, 03:24 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Now that the channel has been cut we can sand the stabilizer to shape.
Don’t ask about the star on my hand.
It’s probably there to remind me to tell you to sand the foam like petting a cat.
One direction and in a cross-cut fashion.
Note the use of the foam sheet used as a pad to prevent dents and it also helps to grip the stab while sanding.

Quick Reply

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion 167 inch Constellation E Conversion. electrich Electric Sailplanes 50 Jan 10, 2018 07:26 PM
Question Servos for a 68 inch Electric? Hoosier37 3D Flying 4 Feb 05, 2016 05:08 PM
Discussion WOW Look at this beautiful 56 inch 5 pound YAK, Its inexpensive too! simo10 3D Flying 219 Apr 23, 2012 02:15 AM
Discussion Motor for a 72 inch, 12 pound Sohkoi? KatManDEW Sport Planes 22 Feb 06, 2007 07:17 PM
68[B]68 inch Wingspan Depron Extra 300s[/B] gooseman Foamies (Kits) 4 Mar 19, 2005 05:29 PM