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Apr 29, 2019, 11:06 AM
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thanks guys!
I wish I could find the photo of the fuselage on the scale.
I remember it came out to 4 ounces !
Crazy light for a foam model
This drove me to tract the weight as I went.
Still digging , I'll post if I can find where I put it.
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Apr 29, 2019, 11:50 AM
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Cockpit


I did the tooling work for a cockpit with windows and its part of the short kit ; but if it doesnít matter to you.
This space could be filled with a foam block and shaped to suit.
Epoxy holds it to the fuselage.

At certin photo angles it makes a difference.
Apr 29, 2019, 11:52 AM
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Glassintg stand


Another stand was made from scrap foam so I could handle the fuselage without touching it while applying one ply of ĺ oz. glass cloth.
This stand was epoxied to the fuselage skin where the wing saddle will be; removing it took a chunk of skin with it but it didnít matter as you will see later.
Apr 29, 2019, 12:05 PM
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Ooh, aah


You bet , OOH, AAH.
The fuselage went together very fast.
It only took one weekend and the visual progress and weight was very encouraging.

Foam sheets all around in the shop and motors and servos waiting for a home .
What an exciting time but the wings were next.
Two weeks of my spare time, gone but it was worth the time.
This went fast as well , after every evening I could see more Connie shaping up.
Apr 29, 2019, 08:02 PM
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Good thread, looking forward to the rest!
Apr 29, 2019, 08:33 PM
When cows fly!
Totally enjoying this build!
May 01, 2019, 07:59 AM
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The wing


It all starts with the patterns again, the good news is you can cut them two at a time. Ribs and wing skins.
Note the tape strip to hold the sheets aligned while being cut.

For the ribs that will require holes I use a scribe to mark the holes location.
Keeping a spar handy for slot test fits will make assembly easier later.
May 01, 2019, 08:10 AM
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Wing skins.


Naturally you will want your best work exposed, that explains the wavy cut marks being turned inward.
The wave pattern in the foam came from the panel not sliding smoothly during the cut.
In The Book Building with foam I refer to it as wire stall.
Keeping the wire moving smoothly is very important to good foam cuts.

Lay the plans over the wing sheeting and poke a hole in every intersection of the ribs and spars as well as the wings outer edge.
A sand bag will keep the paper from shifting.

NOTE: when you cut the outer edges of the wing skin add ĺ inch to make up for the curve of the top sheeting. The excess will be trimmed off later.

After you finish the panel lay out work, flip the plans over to make the opposite wing and use the holes in the plans for the layout work.
This system very old system is called pouncing
I know some will cry about this not printing the whole wing. Doing so would be a waste since we are not actually building on the plans.
May 01, 2019, 08:14 AM
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Use the holes to draw the lines for the spar and wing ribs locations sand the foam lightly for better adhesion then bond the bottom spar to all three panels.

Shim the leading edge and trailing edge of the panel and bond the ribs to the wing sheeting.
Note the amount of evenly spaced lead weights to bend the bottom sheeting; long weights will work just as well but apply the weight evenly.
May 01, 2019, 08:18 AM
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I have no photos of the mid wing panel but it is very simple and assembles with the same steps as the outer panels.
To join the wing panels; a pair of lite plywood spar splices go between the inboard nacelles.
To make room for them I had to remove rib material.
This could have been done earlier but keeping the rib material ensures the ribs are aligned and arranged properly while they are being bonded in place.
A razor saw makes short work of it and a scrap stick will clear any glue and check the gap for the proper width.
May 01, 2019, 08:25 AM
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The center section is almost assembled in between the panels so you can concentrate on the accuracy and alignment of the spars.
While the wings are being joined by the center section the wing tips are elevated to 2 3/4 inch inch at the last rib position.
May 01, 2019, 08:42 AM
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The foam blocks are installed for the forward wing pins and the wing attach screw.
Also the motor mount supports are bonded to the ribs.
These wood pieces are meant to tie the motor to the spar. In hind sight Iím not sure they are necessary.

Behind the inboard motors are the landing gear plates and their gussets that will connect them to the spar.
If you will not be installing retracts the hole in the gear plate should not be cutout.
May 01, 2019, 08:57 AM
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At this point I was freaking out about the fast progress of this project. At this rate I'll be done in a few weeks.
NOT

Frame work always goes fast and the small chores ahead makes progress look slow.
The upside is the small chores tend to only take a few moments and you can walk away.

Now the second bubble to pop.
I see model weight as a bank account and with the fuselage being light as a feather I wanted to see what how the wing is doing.

8 ounces!

Down side:
I know the wiring will cost me allot. then we add motors, retracts, ESC's
On the up side though the wing carries all this weight evenly distributed.
This allows for less structure and weight in the fuselage.
May 01, 2019, 10:19 AM
Registered User
Might want to look how I assemble your vacuum formed parts. I feel this method is much easier.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...s#post41762185

Tony
May 02, 2019, 11:20 AM
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Good job Tony I'm glad you posted.
Your trim system is what I use, cutting them by hand is a pain in the hiny.
My sand paper is held to the flat surface with spray adhesive and is aluminum oxide.
This way I can wet sand and keep the powder it produces.
This plastic powder when mixed with the cement makes a great putty for the seam defects.
Some guys skip the trimming and clamp the flanges then fill the figure with the PU .
I tried it but the seam is harder to deal with.


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