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Oct 20, 2019, 05:46 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
If you remember, we used a balsa strip as a bumper on the trailing edge of the wing and locked the aileron with it to make the fiberglass work easier. Unlocking the aileron is done by cutting the balsa then cutting the fiberglass with a razor blade.
Remove the aileron, sand the edges and reinstall.
All that is left is the rigging.
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Oct 20, 2019, 05:50 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The spacing of the fuselage formers had to be close to make sheeting easier but it comes with other advantages.

You can route push rods thru the fuselage by pushing them thru the formers while twisting them like a drill.
Routing the wires thru the holes cut earlier keeps things tidy.
The multiple compartments come in handy for places to mount our components; the servos only need small patches of foam to mount them.
Oct 21, 2019, 08:34 PM
Registered User
PC Pilot's Avatar
I am surprised that no additional bracing (wood bits) are needed for the servos. Wouldn't the usual transportation and hanger bumps loosen them a bit?
Oct 21, 2019, 08:49 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
While I have never never cut foam in my laser (50 watt, 12X20 bed). I wonder if I could cut the formers for this plane with it?

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My shop....
Oct 22, 2019, 08:34 AM
Registered User
Laser cutting thicker foam is tough because of melt back causing the edges to be angled. MPF cuts nice once you get the settings right.
Last edited by pmullen503; Oct 22, 2019 at 11:10 AM.
Oct 22, 2019, 12:16 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
That's kind of what I figured as to the foam.

SteveT.
Last edited by SteveT.; Oct 23, 2019 at 12:23 AM.
Oct 22, 2019, 12:44 PM
Registered User
What I've found that works reasonably well is to punch a series of closely spaced holes instead of cutting. I lower the laser frequency and increase the speed so I get a what is essentially a perforated line. Then increase the power until the part it easy to break free (or run an exacto knife around the part.) The edge is rough but a quick swipe with sandpaper cleans it up.

A CNC router is a better tool for cutting foam.
Oct 22, 2019, 04:00 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The glow dog kit parts on the site s was cut from 3 and 6mm foam.
I stopped offering it because the Kerf was hard to control effecting accuracy of the parts.
The heat seals the foam edge and we need that ruff edge to make a good bond.

As for the wood bits for the servos.
Ive been bonding servos in place with silicone way before China started mounting with that "soft booger" glue.
Drying time is longer but if the foam shims make it a tight fit the vibration cant touch it.
I like it because positioning is way easier and I save the weight of the wood and hardware.
Nov 05, 2019, 07:35 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Paint


When you cover a foam model properly with Fiberglass Cloth the model’s skin is protected allowing us to use the paint that we want.
We basically have a fiberglass model now.
I start with automotive primer because it sands so well making the small defects easier to find and fix.
That is what all that red spot putty is you have seen in the thread.

Do your best to stick with one brand of paint or at least read their ingredients. Valspar and Krylon spray paint do OK when sprayed over each other. Rustolium does not get along as well with either. .
Allowing these paints to dry completely is key to mixing brands.
The problem is in the thinner, If a layer of paint has not released all its thinner the next layer of paint could react to it by lifting, wrinkling, forming fisheyes and other defects. If you can put your nose near the model and still smell paint it is not completely dry.

Rustolium is a tough coating and dries to a very smooth glossy coat. BUT has limited colors and drys slowly.
Valspar comes in many colors, dry’s in a day or two and is carried by Lowe’s and some walmarts . BUT must be shaken very well every time you pick it up. Their fancy childproof cap clogs easily.
Krylon Comes in the most choices of colors and finish and is available at Walmart’s and could be the least expensive. There was a time I avoided them but they really stepped up their game in the last few years. The spray nozzle puts out such a fine spray that even coats are easy.
Nov 05, 2019, 08:51 AM
Bronco Team Builder
Wade Joos's Avatar

Good stuff


Very helpful information.
Paint is always a mystery and unknown at best.
Thanks for sharing that.

Looks great
Nov 05, 2019, 03:28 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
While for many years, I swore by Rustoleum, the last cans of paint I got from them ran like crazy. if the surface was flat it was ok, but if it was vertical, forget it, as soon as I started spraying, it would run, so now instead of swearing by it, I swear at it!!

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My shop....
Nov 06, 2019, 04:00 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
I shouldn't post this because some idiot will get hurt.

Then I spray paint I warm the can
I mean, I run a bucket full of hot tap water and drop it in while I get the model ready.

This increases the pressure in the can giving me a good spray mist.
It also evaporates the thinner from the paint on the way to the surface.

Risky? Maybe, but I have had full cans of paint in my hand that was so hot it was hard to hold with no problems.
Besides, if it explodes its in a bucket of water
just kidding , it wont.

Humidity is another problem, read the can.
If you have to wait a few days do it.
Otherwise run the air conditioner in the shop before painting.

I have never had a paint job come out good when it is raining.
Nov 06, 2019, 04:37 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Yes, this world is full of 'I.D.10T. (error)s'..

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My shop....
Nov 07, 2019, 12:28 AM
Greediest Suer
Ron H's Avatar
Makes sense, but I haven't tried that yet. If it's cool, I usually sit them in the sunshine to warm them up, but I have used other ways that shouldn't be mentioned. It seems like they spray better if you shake them when new and store them upside down. I like the Krylon quick dry.

About a decade ago I painted two exterior car parts with each brand. The part with the Krylon looks like I painted it yesterday. The Rustoleum part looks like I found it in a scrapyard and didn't even bother to wash it.


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