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Jul 09, 2019, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul~
Got in a hurry and glued the bulkhead on before drilling. The fin is shimmed front, rear, and top with thin wood strips (popicle). Here's a couple of pilot drill bits left in the holes to keep things from shifting. I've drilled for four bolts ala Irene.
Paul, what screw diameter are you using? I guess the bigger the better for the keel retention, but too big and it will weak too much the wood stripes, isn't it? I was thinking in using M6 (6mm) (15/64″ ??) diameter

You guys are amazing, after looking into your pictures I can see more details I never thought: spacers in between fin and sides allowing some (but not random) room!

On the other hand, my wood stripes for the sides of the wood are just over 5 mm and not the 6 mm as Gary's plans so I guess the fin wont go loose or wont go inside at all, any idea to "growth" the wood 1mm ? I think gluing wont give all that all extra thickness at all, maybe glass cloth?
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Jul 09, 2019, 01:42 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar

To glue or not to glue that deck down.


Gluing the deck down is as per the book, and largely what is done. But it isn't much more effort to allow for it to be removed if so desired. Youíll only know when, and if, it is either necessary or desirable.

Allowing for the deck to be moved is a bit like insurance, normally not necessary if the need never rises, but if it does, you have to have done it up front.
I've removed one deck that was glued down, not a pretty sight, like drawing teeth. I have also removed a removable deck once (albeit only after a week or so of it being fitted, and it came away very easily, and the tiny amount of gap sealant was easy to remove. The added bonus is, the removed deck makes a perfect template for a new one. Any gaps can be drawn out.

If the concern is that a removable deck weakens the whole hull and internals, it doesnít. We have 5 of our 6 local boats deck removable and all are as rock solid as the one that isnít. If it werenít for the 14 or so tiny screws being the giveaway you would not know the difference.
Iím not suggesting you should do it, but just to confirm that is both easy to do and as shipshape as permanent gluing down.

It has been discussed here somewhere, at some time, but if anyone would like explanations and methods, I can do that.
Jul 14, 2019, 06:00 PM
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Thread OP

Size of fin bolts


Hi Reimius, the bolts are 1/4 - inch diameter and 20 threads per inch. No need to tighten them, better left a bit loose. I do like the idea of smooth pins with a wire retainer, but the bolts are fine in my Irene, the Schooner Deborah.
Jul 14, 2019, 10:31 PM
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Thread OP

Faux Decking


If you're planning to simply ink decking lines onto the deck plywood do it before constructing the hull and before gluing on the deck beams. I will also seal the deck to keep stains out of the wood. My Annie will be painted but with wooden "decking", masts etc., and other small areas.
Jul 15, 2019, 07:01 PM
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Thread OP

tack gluing the center section


Hull construction begins!
I hope to show how to easily get this assembly into good alignment. Ideally, this method gets the prow centered, the transom level and centered, and the center section just where it needs to be.
I stitched the hull sides together at the prow and stitched them to the transom aft. This aligns the ends of the sides but they aren't glued until the other bulkheads are installed. These stitches are created loosely and then tightened when the assembly is blocked. Random blocks are used to raise the sides and keep them level. Small blocks clamped above the deck bottom line prevent the bulkheads from sliding upward. My bulkheads are not real straight and not real square to the fin trunk so they are not perfectly on the lines on the hull sides. Close enough I reckon. CA glue is used to tack the joints where tight, then a cord tightened around the assembly gets the small gaps closed. A sheet bend knot works well to create a loop, then I tighten the loop as desired by twisting it around a pencil or allen wrench.
www.animatedknots.com is a great resource! Learn what knot to choose and how to use it!
Jul 15, 2019, 08:53 PM
Flying Models Plans
Overall progress looks good, though I do have concern about your last photo that others following your build may want to consider on their own.

It may not matter much in the end, but there isn't much clamping force being applied to the sides, except at the top and bottom edges. Any clamping along the bulkhead is dependent upon the stiffness of the plywood. Turning that pencil too much will actually open gaps, not close them, as it tries to bend the sides in at the upper edge. You would be better served by inserting some blocking under the strings to press the middle of the sides against the bulkhead.

AnimatedKnots.com is indeed a great resource. Thanks for mentioning it.
Jul 15, 2019, 09:55 PM
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Thread OP

Just tack gluing


Thanks Thayer, My bulkheads aren't angled on the edges to match the sides so I've tack glued with CA on the tight side and will glue with epoxy on the very tiny gappy side. The real strength will come from the PC-7 epoxy paste that will be applied to create a fillet on each side. When all the joints and Chines are filleted the hull is stiff, light, and tough.
Jul 16, 2019, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul~
Hi Reimius, the bolts are 1/4 - inch diameter and 20 threads per inch. No need to tighten them, better left a bit loose. I do like the idea of smooth pins with a wire retainer, but the bolts are fine in my Irene, the Schooner Deborah.
Brilliant! I used four M6 screws (6 mm). Not sure about threading

Edit: I just inspect your last pictures and they look very good. I've finished yesterday cutting parts so hull assembling has not been so clean as yours and from beginning my templates were not even perfect so I am a bit concern about having a twisted hull and not fitting parts, but thats part of my careless building technic. I will update you with pictures soon. I will try to send the fin trunk as it is already "finished"
Last edited by Reimius; Jul 16, 2019 at 12:34 AM.
Jul 16, 2019, 12:41 AM
Flying Models Plans
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul~
Thanks Thayer, My bulkheads aren't angled on the edges to match the sides so I've tack glued with CA on the tight side and will glue with epoxy on the very tiny gappy side. The real strength will come from the PC-7 epoxy paste that will be applied to create a fillet on each side. When all the joints and Chines are filleted the hull is stiff, light, and tough.
I would have done it the same way. I can't see beveling the bulkheads when building like this, as I agree that the real strength comes with the epoxy fillets.
Jul 16, 2019, 11:50 AM
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Thread OP

prepping the hull sides


Sorry, should have got this posted before the hull assembly. The hull sides are beveled at the prow and drilled while stacked with small holes to be stitched together. The transom is drilled in line with the sides. Small strips of popsicle stick are glued next to the bulkhead line to prevent the bulkheads from slipping sideways. These make gluing the bulkheads to the sides very easy.
The two plywood blocks are doublers because my material was too short and the hull sides and deck have extensions butt joined.
Jul 22, 2019, 09:24 PM
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Thread OP

Looks like Annie


Gary, is this the Schooner Annie in the YouTube video "Salute to Scratch Builders"?
She appears at the video times 9:00, 9:20, and 9:27.
“Salute to Scratch Builders” (11 min 42 sec)
Jul 23, 2019, 01:40 AM
sailtails - YouTube
Gary Webb's Avatar

Annie before her time -


Yes Paul, you don't miss a thing!
I just re-watched the Salute to Scratch Builders video and note that "Annie" in testing can be seen:
at 8:22 sailing in company of my gaff version "Irene" called "Tramp"
at 8:35 with a stay sail rig that failed to satisfy
at 9:02 a shot of her bow and bow wave
at 9:22 and 9:29 with a rig similar to, but shorter than, the final rig which is shown in the "Annie" plans
As you might gather, I spent quite a bit of time with this design before calling it good. I am really happy with the final version, just as it is on the plans.
Cheers, Gary
Jul 23, 2019, 11:29 AM
Registered User
Zbip57's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Webb
I just re-watched the Salute to Scratch Builders video and note that "Annie" in testing can be seen [...]
As you might gather, I spent quite a bit of time with this design before calling it good.
Gary is much too modest to mention that, similar to his original Irene, his beautiful original Annie also has a fully detailed interior layout!

See his earlier photos posted here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5&postcount=38

Annie is gorgeous inside and out!
Jul 23, 2019, 12:08 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
bbbp's Avatar
Wow!!
Jul 24, 2019, 03:41 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Deck Beams


I've cut the deck beam pieces from the scrap plywood and doubled them for the quarter-inch thickness.
The plans show a long span between the two beams farthest aft. Would another one be a good idea, maybe between the cabin cut-out and the aft hatch cut-out?


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