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May 01, 2019, 05:58 PM
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How big is your truck?

Cheers,

Terry
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May 06, 2019, 11:47 PM
John Page

Cutting patterns and parts


Today, I finished cutting parts for Irene, and cut the bulkheads for Annie.

Since I got a new saber-saw gift, I tried it out with fine-tooth, extra-sharp Bosch blades. Whoa!! No matter the speed, the saber-saw splinters thin plywood like crazy (in cross-cut mode). Don't bother. I returned to a 4" Dremel corded saw that I bought for the Emma builds. It cuts beautifully without splintering. You can even cut large radius arcs with it.

The secret is the circular saw blade. It does not have any teeth. The edge of the blade is a very fine super-hard spatter-like abrasive material. It cuts very fast and very smooth. The Dremel comes in two models. One has a plastic (delryn?) base, the other comes with a slightly large cast aluminum base and more power. Get the second one, if you are in the market.

Plan patterns: I cut out the patterns allowing say 3/8" to 1/2" margin. These are glued to 1/8" hardboard ('Masonite') with spray glue. This is so I have reusable patterns to back up all parts and errors -- who me? The Dremel or a saber-saw works OK on hardboard to cut out the plan and the pattern. I may allow a 1/8" to 1/2" margin for these cuts. The final cut right to the pattern line is done on my regular table saw. I use a fine toothed ply blade, 6" - 7" and a close tolerance insert plate I made from aluminum. I cut by hand and eye, slowly and patiently. Then back to the disc sander to take the edge right to the plans line with easy precision.

The hardboard patterns are then traced onto the 1/8" luan plywood. The plywood is cut with the Dremel saw (no splintering) with ample margins so as to never touch the ballpoint pen line. The parts are then hand trimmed on the table saw and sanded to the line with a sanding disc. I haven't ruined a part yet, since my first mistake on an Emma part where I tried to sand two identical parts at the same time. My smart idea produced a dumb result. I got to do it over again, a la RobCrusoe!!

Hope these tips will help someone else do their best job possible.
May 07, 2019, 01:20 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Good on you John, great to read some build notes from someone like yourself.

You were as game as Ned Kelly (Infamous Aussie Bushranger of yore) to use a Sabre saw on ply. While Luan ply seems a very basic ply construction compared to Radiata premium ply I'm not surprised it devoured the timber. The more appropriate hand held power tool, and one that works just fine for us, is a Jigsaw, as the action is a lot gentler on the timber leaving the cuts clean and precise.
Even a pedestal Bandsaw is very useful and as the blade is selected for lighter timber (14 t.p.i is ideal) it mainly used where the cuts are relatively straight. The jigsaw does the rounder, curvy bits.

top marks for making patterns/templates. think of them like insurance, you may never need them but if you do it will save more time than the time it took to make them. It's a given with me that anything to do with making timber into something is bound to require another try of some things. But it is also great to encourage others to build one and you'll find that sailing in company raises the satisfaction stakes several notches higher.

Get a battery for your camera and show us what you are achieving.
May 29, 2019, 12:52 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Deck Beams


Annie's Deck Beam Camber Template isn't a Deck Beam. The Beams only have to be at least 3/8" deep, not the full depth of the template. The Beams are all different lengths but use the same Camber Template
Also, laminating 2 pieces of the 1/8" plywood makes a good beam from scraps. The hull stringers can also be laminated from ply scrap.
Hope this helps
May 29, 2019, 04:31 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I set my jigsaw for no orbiting and get nice work with Bosch blade T 101 AO.
The orbiting action would bite harder and rougher.

P.S...This is the modeler formerly known as g'n's and earlier glidin'n'slidin'
I'll just go by my name now
Last edited by Paul~; May 29, 2019 at 08:04 PM.
May 31, 2019, 12:59 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Rudder construction


The rudder drawing is reduced in size. I think the true size is 1.36 times larger than the drawing. So...
My calculations show the rudder stock length to be 12-1/4 inches. The lowest cross piece is 1/4 inch from bottom of stock to center. The other three cross pieces are spaced apart 2-1/4 inches center-to-center. The cross pieces are 1-13/16" in length with 1/4 inch sticking out the front.

I'm going to cut the threads, then build the metal skeleton, then mark the plywood rudder core to fit around the skeleton. I'll space the core up from the table with some 1/16 inch ply when gluing the skeleton into the core. The bottom of the skeleton cut-out is up 5/8 inch from the bottom of the core. My cut-out will be 5/16 inch wide for the stock and 3/16 inch wide for the cross pieces.
Hope this helps
Paul

p.s. I am going to post helpful info in hope of helping novice boat modelers. I ask patience from you old pros.
Hey Novices You Can Build This Boat!
Jun 03, 2019, 08:36 AM
Flying Models Plans
The plans call out the rudder post stock as 12 inches long. That said, it isn't critical.

The main dimension I would watch is the distance between the top of the rudder and the end of the threads. I think minimizing any vertical slop in the rudder mounting will be a good thing.
Jun 03, 2019, 09:56 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

aluminum sheet source


I've ordered 6061 aluminum 3/16" thick, 8 inches wide, 20 inches long for under $25 shipped.
The source is xometry.com

Added June 7, 2019: Received this order quickly and perfectly. Recommended!
Last edited by Paul~; Jun 07, 2019 at 02:02 PM.
Jun 10, 2019, 04:34 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thayer
The main dimension I would watch is the distance between the top of the rudder and the end of the threads. I think minimizing any vertical slop in the rudder mounting will be a good thing.

I agree. All mine (non-threaded, just with a 'flat') have a fitted brass tube liner up thru the rudder block. then the shaft has a close fit slightly smaller I.D. brass tube which in effects makes irt a long bush. Then a bit of lithium (any grease will do)between the brass (inner tube is glued to steel shaft) and its good for a lot of sailing. however, particularly in saline conditions, remove , clean of, re-grease then sail on!


In these boats it is not really going to affect the sailing performance noticeably if the rudder is more than just a vertical paddle. Giving it a mild airfoil shape, at least a leading and trailing edges, is advisable, and slightly rounding the corners ( a little up top, more below) is about all that is necessary.


It's my firm belief that the sails and rigging are where to put in most of your effort for best performance and general appearance. .


What do YOU think ?
Jun 13, 2019, 10:08 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Make room for the fin


Note on plans: Both the inside of the trunk and the fin measure 8 inches so either cut the fin narrower or make the trunk a bit large. An extra 1/4 inch would be fine. It's supposed to be loose.
Jun 16, 2019, 04:21 AM
Registered User

New build


I know how you feel Paul, I cannot think of a good enough reason to start building Annie as the summer is here now.
Definitely got the build bug, got hold of a plywood door from next door. He is amazed that I intend to build a boat from his old door!
Love the lines of the new design and will spend the summer months assembling all the various items I will need to start the new boat. The advantage of having built a boat before you have lots of bits already
Jul 01, 2019, 11:52 PM
Registered User
I guys! I am starting the Annie. This is my first serious build, so please be patient. I did a springer tug boat and a footy so far and I can say the tug boat worked. My first boat and my first RC! But I failed with the footy sails. But the aesthetics of this builds were not appealing in any case so after too much though I decided to build Annie. A real and beautiful schooner. A dream since I was I kid since I saw my father building a static pilot schooner when I was 10 until he stop after ... glueing the bulkheads LOL.

Back to the present: I've just received last weekend the plans from Gary so now it is time to scratch my head and bothering you with the first questions . Where are the drawings for the fin box? and ... for this box, should I waterproof the walls before glueing them?
Jul 02, 2019, 12:44 AM
sailtails - YouTube
Gary Webb's Avatar

The Fin Trunk


Hi Reimius -
Glad to hear you are beginning to build "Annie".
Page 4 of the plans shows the Fin Trunk (box) with Dimensions and Instructions to use fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to waterproof the inside walls of the trunk before glueing the box together.

Once the Fin Trunk is together, the next step is to fasten Bulkheads #2 & #3 to the trunk. Be sure to align the waterlines, and to fasten them securely. I suggest 2 screws to hold each bulkhead to the trunk along with epoxy glue.

Cheers, Gary
Jul 02, 2019, 04:28 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Webb
Hi Reimius -
Glad to hear you are beginning to build "Annie".
Page 4 of the plans shows the Fin Trunk (box) with Dimensions and Instructions to use fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to waterproof the inside walls of the trunk before glueing the box together.

Once the Fin Trunk is together, the next step is to fasten Bulkheads #2 & #3 to the trunk. Be sure to align the waterlines, and to fasten them securely. I suggest 2 screws to hold each bulkhead to the trunk along with epoxy glue.

Cheers, Gary
Thanks Gary, it was in front of me and pretty clear! Next time I will try to read more consciously
Jul 02, 2019, 03:39 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

more limber holes?


I'm noticing the lack of limber holes in bulkhead #3 and guessing I'll put them in the way Irene has them.


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