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May 23, 2019, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by stiks
George, the information helped alot. Thanks for pointing that out about flipping the water guage over. I do have other available fittings on the boiler but they are on the very top of the boiler itself. There is one other available connection on the side of the boiler, but again it is near the top. I will take a picture and post it tonight. But would using that "port" work?
QUOTE=stiks;41926457]George, the information helped alot. Thanks for pointing that out about flipping the water guage over. I do have other available fittings on the boiler but they are on the very top of the boiler itself. There is one other available connection on the side of the boiler, but again it is near the top. I will take a picture and post it tonight. But would using that "port" work?[/QUOTE]

Hi Sherman,

Yes that port will work, the steam loss going into the top above the Water Level will be minimal, it will of coarse need a little more heat but I will hardly be noticed.
Cheddar who made the boiler was a very well known and respected maker, and as your boiler pic shows the feed is above the Water level, many years ago before I started to make my own boilers I had a horizontal Pintail boiler and engine which you can see on my post No5 ( first pic ) the non return valve ( clack )is just above the burner, I never had any problem and didn't notice any great difference in fuel consumption, however feeding the water into the boiler below water level is best.

George.
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May 23, 2019, 08:37 PM
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I can make you one for$10 plus shipping .
May 24, 2019, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by stiks
Very nice!! great looking stack How much are you making and selling these for?
$10 plus shipping
May 24, 2019, 12:17 PM
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Esaley, sounds like a deal..do you want to pm me with your paypal info? Thanks
May 24, 2019, 01:17 PM
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So i checked out the connection on the side of the boiler and there are actually 2 of them but one is larger so i used the smaller of the 2 since my fittings would connect to it with no problem. I dont have enough piping so i plan on buying the additional pre-fab like i mentioned before then start threading my own as i go.

In the picture below i mocked up the piping from the side of the boiler. This would be for the water pump inlet. Will that work? Then the lower connection on the pump (not pictured) will go to the clean water source.

In the other picture i connected the pipes to my existing steam line from the boiler and then up to the inlet for the engine. But as you can see i have a "nipple" sticking out of the engine line and a gap between it and the end of my pipe. I know i could silver solder the two together but that sort of makes it permanent. I was thinking of putting a globe valve there or something so i can take this engine in and out for cleaning or if i want to run something else.

Lastly, the piping shows alot of exposed thread..i got all of my fittings 1/4-40...should i go with 1/4-32 next time?

Any thoughts???
May 24, 2019, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiks
So i checked out the connection on the side of the boiler and there are actually 2 of them but one is larger so i used the smaller of the 2 since my fittings would connect to it with no problem. I dont have enough piping so i plan on buying the additional pre-fab like i mentioned before then start threading my own as i go.

In the picture below i mocked up the piping from the side of the boiler. This would be for the water pump inlet. Will that work? Then the lower connection on the pump (not pictured) will go to the clean water source.

In the other picture i connected the pipes to my existing steam line from the boiler and then up to the inlet for the engine. But as you can see i have a "nipple" sticking out of the engine line and a gap between it and the end of my pipe. I know i could silver solder the two together but that sort of makes it permanent. I was thinking of putting a globe valve there or something so i can take this engine in and out for cleaning or if i want to run something else.

Lastly, the piping shows alot of exposed thread..i got all of my fittings 1/4-40...should i go with 1/4-32 next time?

Any thoughts???
Hi Sherman,
You can put a 180 deg globe valve in the gap if you wish without altering the engine performance.

On the mock up of the pump line into the boiler you can't do that as when you get any pressure at all in the boiler it will just pass over to the pump so you need to put in a Non Return valve ( commonly called a clack valve ) to keep the boiler pressurised without returning steam to the pump.

Here ar 3 pics,
1-- a non return valve, 2-3 how to make sight glass fittings, I suggest that you print them off an keep for the future when you may start to make the fittings yourself.
The second pic with the sight glass you will see why you can't' fit the pump feed to the bottom of the glass by swapping top to bottom.

George.
Last edited by ooyah; May 24, 2019 at 05:49 PM. Reason: Description added.
May 29, 2019, 02:53 PM
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George, i will check the fittings i have. I think i have the check valve. Will it go at the top next to the boiler or down below near the pump?
May 30, 2019, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by stiks
George, i will check the fittings i have. I think i have the check valve. Will it go at the top next to the boiler or down below near the pump?
Hi Sherman,
I don't quite understand your question but I am assuming you want to know where to position the non return valve.

The valve has to be fitted into the boiler shell via one of the screwed bosses, it can either be as you have previously asked into the boss at the top of the boiler shell above the full water line of the boiler or at the bottom of the boiler below the water level if there is a boss which is my preference.

To make it clear here is a pic of a boiler that I made last year showing the non return valve fitted below the water level and just below the Pressure gauge.

George.
May 30, 2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ooyah
Hi Sherman,
I don't quite understand your question but I am assuming you want to know where to position the non return valve.

The valve has to be fitted into the boiler shell via one of the screwed bosses, it can either be as you have previously asked into the boss at the top of the boiler shell above the full water line of the boiler or at the bottom of the boiler below the water level if there is a boss which is my preference.

To make it clear here is a pic of a boiler that I made last year showing the non return valve fitted below the water level and just below the Pressure gauge.

George.
George, thanks for the picture and reply. On your boiler (pictured) it looks like the check valve is a "lone" valve, meaning you dont have piping connected to it, it just sits alone. Is that how it works and then i can connect he piping to another "screwed boss"? The check valve i see on pm research is like the one i have. But it would seem that i would screw that in and then connect my piping to it. I will take some mock-up pictures tonight.

Are these the same thing?....
May 31, 2019, 12:42 PM
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George, here are the pictures of my mock up with the pump. I also took pictures of what i believe is a check valve i have. In one of the pictures i have the "check valve" connected to that top side bushing (assuming that is a check valve) and it would seem that i could then connect a pipe to it somehow... But again this was just a thought.

If the connector i have is not a true check valve then which of the ones from PM research do you recommend; the inline or globe type? What is the difference...(possible dumb question there )?

So working on the other assumption that my part is not a check valve and i do get one from pm research do i just put it inline with the line from the pump to the boiler? Or does it stand alone like the one in your picture?

Thanks
May 31, 2019, 03:23 PM
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Sherman,

You can't take a pipe directly into the boiler .
In the first pic that I sent the check valve is fitted to the boiler shell and then the water pipe from the pump connects to the bottom of the valve.
Look at the drawing that I sent and the screw fitting into my boiler is 1/4 x 32 ME and the fitting at the bottom of the check valve is 1/4 x 32 ME to take the water pipe from the pump. The ball in the valve stops the steam pressure from going back to the pump but lifts when the pump is in action allowing water into the boiler.

I can't make any comment on the PMR fittings as I have never used them nor have I seen them.
you will need to get a 90 deg check valve with a ball in it and it will need to be threaded 1/4 x32 M.E. going into the boiler and the end that takes the water pipe will need to be 1/4 x 32 M.E. or what ever threads that you use.

George.
May 31, 2019, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooyah
Sherman,

You can't take a pipe directly into the boiler .
In the first pic that I sent the check valve is fitted to the boiler shell and then the water pipe from the pump connects to the bottom of the valve.
Look at the drawing that I sent and the screw fitting into my boiler is 1/4 x 32 ME and the fitting at the bottom of the check valve is 1/4 x 32 ME to take the water pipe from the pump. The ball in the valve stops the steam pressure from going back to the pump but lifts when the pump is in action allowing water into the boiler.

I can't make any comment on the PMR fittings as I have never used them nor have I seen them.
you will need to get a 90 deg check valve with a ball in it and it will need to be threaded 1/4 x32 M.E. going into the boiler and the end that takes the water pipe will need to be 1/4 x 32 M.E. or what ever threads that you use.

George.
George, thanks for the detailed picture. That all makes sense now. It did seem not right to connect that pipe directly to the boiler. I will purchase a check valve or check with my friend that i got the engines from. I will post after I get the part(s).
Jun 20, 2019, 09:33 AM
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Just returned from vacation and back to work. I took some pictures of the new check valve installed on the boiler. I originally had it in the bushing that is above the fuel source but found out rather quickly that having dripping water above the fire would not work to well.

So i moved it the bushing on the side. I still need to get some plumbing tape or locktite to stop the minor dripping that i get.

The pump works but it is actually alot of work to refill the boiler using it. I wonder if the connection was near the bottom of the boiler would that make a difference.


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