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May 18, 2019, 03:41 PM
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-kno3-'s Avatar
I have the same Saito boiler. Just tell me what you need to know.
It is a good and very light boiler, especially useful if your steamboat can't carry much weight. I have modified my B2E boiler it to take a water gauge.
May 20, 2019, 09:39 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by -kno3-
I have the same Saito boiler. Just tell me what you need to know.
It is a good and very light boiler, especially useful if your steamboat can't carry much weight. I have modified my B2E boiler it to take a water gauge.
Kno3, thanks for chiming in. I spent most of the day today looking for Saito parts. I was on the Saito site but my Japanese is a little stale... I tried the copy and paste to google translater and it worked..kind of but it looks like they dont ship to the US..is that right? Or did my i not read that right.

Well since you asked i am looking for the connections for the boiler and engine; the tub union nuts. I found one that will connect to the boiler or it will connect to the saito engine, but i only have one. So i need those, also looking for the boiler stack. I did find the pressure gauge on Ebay from Poland with shipping around $30.00.
Last edited by stiks; May 20, 2019 at 09:48 PM. Reason: correction
May 21, 2019, 09:25 AM
Registered User
Hi Stiks, I like both of your boat choices. I have a Seguin in the build process. The launch is really nice! Can you give me some detail on how the helm moves when the rudder moves? I am wanting to set that up in the Krick Borkum that I'm building. Also, I can make you a stack for your Saito
boiler. I have 2 of those boilers and made stacks for both.
Ed
May 21, 2019, 01:17 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by esaley4527
Hi Stiks, I like both of your boat choices. I have a Seguin in the build process. The launch is really nice! Can you give me some detail on how the helm moves when the rudder moves? I am wanting to set that up in the Krick Borkum that I'm building. Also, I can make you a stack for your Saito
boiler. I have 2 of those boilers and made stacks for both.
Ed
Ed, thanks looking. Sorry to say i did not build the Seguin. I actually got it from a friend that moved up north to Sequim Washington.... I can try to take a few indepth pictures when i get home and will be glad to post them. As you can see from my picture i have a bit of a rudder problem myself; it broke off. We'll call it "dry dock rash"...too much moving to and fro around the garage.

Regarding the stacks, do you have any pictures?
May 21, 2019, 01:18 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by -kno3-
I have the same Saito boiler. Just tell me what you need to know.
It is a good and very light boiler, especially useful if your steamboat can't carry much weight. I have modified my B2E boiler it to take a water gauge.
Kno3, is it a B2A? Thanks
May 22, 2019, 10:25 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stiks
Ed, thanks looking. Sorry to say i did not build the Seguin. I actually got it from a friend that moved up north to Sequim Washington.... I can try to take a few indepth pictures when i get home and will be glad to post them. As you can see from my picture i have a bit of a rudder problem myself; it broke off. We'll call it "dry dock rash"...too much moving to and fro around the garage.

Regarding the stacks, do you have any pictures?
Will send some pictures when I get back in the shop tonight.
May 22, 2019, 12:31 PM
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-kno3-'s Avatar
It is a boiler like yours, I believe it is called a B2E boiler but could be mistaken. Saito uses M7x0,75 threaded connections from boiler to engine and elsewhere. I have bought some from Niggel in Germany, but they are probably available with other vendors.
Regarding the pressure gauge, I haven't used the Saito original, but a much smaller and nicer British made model presure gauge in brass.
May 22, 2019, 02:30 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by -kno3-
It is a boiler like yours, I believe it is called a B2E boiler but could be mistaken. Saito uses M7x0,75 threaded connections from boiler to engine and elsewhere. I have bought some from Niggel in Germany, but they are probably available with other vendors.
Regarding the pressure gauge, I haven't used the Saito original, but a much smaller and nicer British made model presure gauge in brass.
Thank you kno3
May 22, 2019, 02:34 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ooyah
Hi ,
What you have is a Cheddar twin cylinder engine called Puffin which has a boiler feed pump attached and is driven by the crank pin of the engine.
They are no longer available so you have a unique pump.
Some years ago I had one fitted to a Pintail engine and found the pump very reliable and easily overcame boiler pressure. in the pics ignore the drive with the black rubber drive belt, this is non standard and a drive that I made up with brass and a Meccano drive pulley and was electrically driven.

If I recall mine was bought about 20 years ago and cost about 80 .

Hope this helps.

George.
George, on that pump in your picture. The silicon line that goes into the pump next to the valve..is that feeding the pump from the lake? Then the top connection goes into your condenser and the lower line...does what go out back into the lake?

thanks,

Sherman
May 22, 2019, 02:52 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
So i received my piping connections from PM Research. I bought the pre-fab nipple kit that comes with 3/16 and 1/4 pipe and the fitting kit for boiler #1 setup, as well as the water pump they sell.

So i start mocking everything up and realize that in the diagram they show the pump connecting to the bottom of the water guage on the boiler with a 1/4 inch connector or pipe then to a tee then out to the pump. I removed the plug from the bottom of my water guage and it is a 3/16 fitting. I then removed the plug from the upper part of the water guage and it is a 1/4 inch fitting. At first i thought maybe it is upside down but after thinking about it i guess there is no upside right because i can pretty much plumb it the way i want.

However since most; if not all, my fittings..elbows, tees and crosses, are all 1/4 is it ok to flip the water gauge over so the 1/4 inch will be on the bottom? Here is a post of the diagram from PM Research. Or since i have other available "plugs" on the boiler and they are not in use (capped off), can i plug the boiler in to one of those?

I also realized that the nipple/pipe kit they sell does not complete the boiler water pump connection. Meaning they sell you the kit(s) but they are for the elbows and connectors between the pipe. Not noticed by me... It also shows in the diagram that you will need to cut some pipe to fit your needs.... Which i didnt see or take not of earlier. So now i still have to either get more pre-fab piping from them or get the Dies to cut my own threads. Most likely i will purchase the few additional pre-fab nipples i need to complete the setup and then buy the Die later so i can cut my own as i move on...

Sherman
May 22, 2019, 09:14 PM
Registered User
Hi Stiks, Here is my B2E boiler with the stack I made. An exact copy of the original.
May 23, 2019, 05:19 AM
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ooyah's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stiks
So i received my piping connections from PM Research. I bought the pre-fab nipple kit that comes with 3/16 and 1/4 pipe and the fitting kit for boiler #1 setup, as well as the water pump they sell.

So i start mocking everything up and realize that in the diagram they show the pump connecting to the bottom of the water guage on the boiler with a 1/4 inch connector or pipe then to a tee then out to the pump. I removed the plug from the bottom of my water guage and it is a 3/16 fitting. I then removed the plug from the upper part of the water guage and it is a 1/4 inch fitting. At first i thought maybe it is upside down but after thinking about it i guess there is no upside right because i can pretty much plumb it the way i want.

However since most; if not all, my fittings..elbows, tees and crosses, are all 1/4 is it ok to flip the water gauge over so the 1/4 inch will be on the bottom? Here is a post of the diagram from PM Research. Or since i have other available "plugs" on the boiler and they are not in use (capped off), can i plug the boiler in to one of those?

I also realized that the nipple/pipe kit they sell does not complete the boiler water pump connection. Meaning they sell you the kit(s) but they are for the elbows and connectors between the pipe. Not noticed by me... It also shows in the diagram that you will need to cut some pipe to fit your needs.... Which i didnt see or take not of earlier. So now i still have to either get more pre-fab piping from them or get the Dies to cut my own threads. Most likely i will purchase the few additional pre-fab nipples i need to complete the setup and then buy the Die later so i can cut my own as i move on...

Sherman
Sherman,

Having had a look at the diagram of the pump going into the bottom of the sight glass is a very bad idea, it means that you can't take the pump line away from the boiler otherwise if the boiler is full you will drain it out, the valve at the end of the sight glass fitting is a drain valve to the boiler.

You can't turn the sight glass over as the top fitting has a straight thro' hole to allow the glass to go thro'.
The bottom fitting has a hole like the top to take the glass but the hole is drilled to take the glass and the glass sits on a shoulder to stop it going thro' and blocking the hole into the boiler

A 3/16' tapped hole has a tapping bore of 5/32" to allow the hole to be tapped 3/16" so the glass will not pass thro' so it's a" No No "to swap the fittings about.

If the boiler has a spare plugged 1/4 x 32" hole in the barrel of the boiler it is best to put the pump connection there, preferably below the boiler water level as pumping cold water into the steam space cools the steam and by doing this it just means that you use more heat .

Also looking at the diagram , the pump is connected to a clean water tank and then the exhaust from the engine is taken over into the clean water tank, this is another bad idea as the exhaust is contaminated withe steam oil and then you would be pumping oily water into the boiler, another 'No No"

Hope this helps.

George.
Last edited by ooyah; May 23, 2019 at 05:27 AM.
May 23, 2019, 02:14 PM
Registered User
stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ooyah
Sherman,

Having had a look at the diagram of the pump going into the bottom of the sight glass is a very bad idea, it means that you can't take the pump line away from the boiler otherwise if the boiler is full you will drain it out, the valve at the end of the sight glass fitting is a drain valve to the boiler.

You can't turn the sight glass over as the top fitting has a straight thro' hole to allow the glass to go thro'.
The bottom fitting has a hole like the top to take the glass but the hole is drilled to take the glass and the glass sits on a shoulder to stop it going thro' and blocking the hole into the boiler

A 3/16' tapped hole has a tapping bore of 5/32" to allow the hole to be tapped 3/16" so the glass will not pass thro' so it's a" No No "to swap the fittings about.

If the boiler has a spare plugged 1/4 x 32" hole in the barrel of the boiler it is best to put the pump connection there, preferably below the boiler water level as pumping cold water into the steam space cools the steam and by doing this it just means that you use more heat .

Also looking at the diagram , the pump is connected to a clean water tank and then the exhaust from the engine is taken over into the clean water tank, this is another bad idea as the exhaust is contaminated withe steam oil and then you would be pumping oily water into the boiler, another 'No No"

Hope this helps.

George.

George, the information helped alot. Thanks for pointing that out about flipping the water guage over. I do have other available fittings on the boiler but they are on the very top of the boiler itself. There is one other available connection on the side of the boiler, but again it is near the top. I will take a picture and post it tonight. But would using that "port" work?
May 23, 2019, 02:16 PM
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stiks's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by esaley4527
Hi Stiks, Here is my B2E boiler with the stack I made. An exact copy of the original.
Very nice!! great looking stack How much are you making and selling these for?


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