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Apr 22, 2019, 08:02 AM
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FS-i6 Hall gimbal mod


My newest mod on the FS-i6 Ball bearing hall sensor gimbal ... low budged -- fast and easy
and add a slider pot for flaps
FS I6 Slider and Gimbal mod (2 min 57 sec)
Last edited by geileraupe; May 10, 2019 at 08:12 AM.
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May 11, 2019, 01:54 PM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
hello! Can you tell us how you did this hall imbal mode? How connect gimbals. And please upload .stl file with model. Thank you!
May 13, 2019, 06:37 PM
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next days i take some pictures from inside and the connection points. the adapter.stl file is here...
May 22, 2019, 03:32 AM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by geileraupe View Post
next days i take some pictures from inside and the connection points. the adapter.stl file is here...
thank you. we will wait
May 26, 2019, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geileraupe View Post
next days i take some pictures from inside and the connection points. the adapter.stl file is here...
What is the pinout on the Hall Gimbals? I think its VCC (3.3v) = Yellow, Signal Out = Red, Ground=Black. based on this prototype image is this correct?
May 29, 2019, 01:56 AM
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Jumper Gimbal Pinouts


I've received my Jumper Gimbals and I've now determined the pin out for the Hall Sensors (See image attached) note that on my units the Ground is on the Red Wire and +3.3V is on the Black one. I suggest using the wire positions on the board and on the connector as a guide rather than colour.

I've also begun setup for the Roll Axis (channel 1) by flipping the Magnet 180, sanding down the hall sensor mounting block by 1.5mm (to get a better output range) and tweaking the rotation of the magnet to give a balanced output of 0.16v full left, 3.28v full right and1.75v when centered.

I've recorded a video of the roll axis working with my FS-I6X. Note that I've not Calibrated the Channel yet in the transmitter, but I'm pleased with how its working so far.
Jumper Hall Gimbal Test on Flysky FS-i6X (0 min 41 sec)


My plan is to make a short adaptor cable to go between the i6x cable (4 pin 1.5mm pitch JST connector) and the 3 pin Molex Picoblades (1.25mm pitch) on the Jumper gimbals
May 29, 2019, 08:44 AM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
js9aj, oh, nice. i will watching your progress
Jun 02, 2019, 06:19 PM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
​geileraupe , js9aj , at jumper gimbal really red wire - gnd, and black wire - +3.3v ? i afraid kill new gimbals.. and at gimbal i see 6 wires. how connect all wires right? Explain please

may be photo or video? thanks !
Jun 02, 2019, 06:37 PM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
an screenshot some questions:
1. i dont understand how connect wires here
2. whats is it ?
3. why: black -> yellow, yellow -> red, red -> yellow ? where is logic? at latest jc9aj post wires have other purpose.

I'm completely confused =( please help
Jun 03, 2019, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by thestk View Post
an screenshot some questions:
1. i dont understand how connect wires here
2. whats is it ?
3. why: black -> yellow, yellow -> red, red -> yellow ? where is logic? at latest jc9aj post wires have other purpose.

I'm completely confused =( please help
Ignore the wire colours (I think they just bought the cheapest connectors with flying leads to connect to the gimbals). The pin out is definitely correct in the picture above for the Hall Gimbal. The sensors are protected by some diodes on the board (i connected wrong way first and it hasn't damaged it) you may end up with a high current draw if connected incorrectly (I'd set current limit to max 500mA on your 3.3v power supply which should protect the unit).

For the Transmitter End you will need to perform continuity tests to each pin from the test points on the board (see attached) to the Gimbal connector (you should disconnect it from the gimbal first to do this otherwise you may get an erroneous reading through the gimbal pot). Every photo I've seen of an FS-i6/i6X online has different connector/wire colours - so don't trust them!) Ive attached a pic of my original Ch1/2 gimbal pinout (but you should verify this on your own transmitter)

Using this I build a little adaptor cable which works (see image) I havent got it to calibrate yet but I think thats because by Channel2 range is too narrow (I need to sand down the sensor mounting block more - I'll do that over the next couple of days)
Last edited by jc9aj; Jun 03, 2019 at 01:13 AM.
Jun 03, 2019, 07:15 PM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
Thank you!

I connected the gimbals, but the remote does not allow to turn on due to an error, because the throtle is not in the zero position. It turned out to connect only the right joystick. Also on the display menu, gimbal works not for full range do not go to the edges. How to calibrate them now? How did you do it?
Jun 04, 2019, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by thestk View Post
Thank you!

I connected the gimbals, but the remote does not allow to turn on due to an error, because the throtle is not in the zero position. It turned out to connect only the right joystick. Also on the display menu, gimbal works not for full range do not go to the edges. How to calibrate them now? How did you do it?
That is good news! I'm working on Channel 1 & 2 first to avoid the power up issue but now i understand what needs to be done.:
  1. you need to ensure that the Gimbals are outputting the correct direction. Its best to measure the hall sensor output with a volt meter to do this they should be Highest voltage either Up or Right and the Lowest Voltage Down or left. If this is not correct you will need to rotate a magnet by 180.

    I had to do this on Channel 1 (Roll) you need to disassemble the gimbal slightly, loosen the RTV/PRC surounding the magnet, mark the top of the magnet with a permanent marker to gauge orientation and then very gently pull the magnet off the end of the shaft. Rotate the magnet 180 about the shaft axis and re insert (see attached images).

  2. Next you need to ensure the hall sensor outputs mid value (roughly) with the magnet you turned around. if it doesnt then you may need to carfully rotate the magnet a little more to get the centre of the output range - this is tricky and involves lots of trial and error

  3. Next you need to get the output Voltage Range correct, I measured all my original gimbals and they outputed the following:
    • Stick Centre 1.41v - 1.71v
    • Stick Up/Right 2.89v-3.15v (Centre +1.4v to +1.5v)
    • Stick Down/Left 0.13v-0.32v (Centre -1.3v to -1.5v)
    You will find that the voltage range is too small to calibrate the gimbal (out of the box I got 0.64v, 1.57v, 2.46v which only gave 0.9v offset from centre). The way I did this was to remove the hall sensor mount and sand it down on fine sand paper from about 2.5mm thick to roughly 2mm thick. Do not sand this too much otherwise you will end up hitting dead zones at the stick end points (max output of hall sensor is 3.3v and min is 0.1v)

  4. Once all this is done you should be able to go into the factory menu (hold both gimbals down and left while powering on) and you can calibrate the sticks in the menu there.

    Flysky i6X Transmitter Hidden Menu (1 min 23 sec)

I've just got my first stick calibrated successfully in the transmitter and looks good. On to the Throttle next....

My plan is to setup the throttle (CH3/4) gimbal and test it on the CH1/2 inputs to get the voltage range and sense correct first before plugging into the correct cable. I think that I will need to rotate the magnet on Channel 4 this time as the gimbals are mounted 180 out from each other. Job for the coming days....
Jun 04, 2019, 01:55 AM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
Oh. Great work! Thank you. I'll try today then write report.

I wonder how did the author
Jun 05, 2019, 10:29 AM
Sorry for my bad English =)
thestk's Avatar
i did make right magnet position for rotating signal and found center position. next step make less distance to the sensor for increase range =)

how are your progress ?
Jun 06, 2019, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestk View Post
i did make right magnet position for rotating signal and found center position. next step make less distance to the sensor for increase range =)

how are your progress ?
Great Work! My first sensor mount I sanded too much and caused me issues in getting it centered, you only need to reduce the distance by 0.5mm. Try and sand it to keep the surface flat and worth testing it as you go. a Max/Min range of 2.90v/0.54v works well.

I've designed a new adaptor for 3d printing - still prototyping (see pics) as there are a few changes needed it but it holds the gimbal with a two countersunk M2 machine screws/nuts and 2 servo screws (and a washer to prevent the screw coming out of the front of the housing) instead of glue. You still need to cut off two of the hall gimbal mounting holes and remove the stand off on the other two so the front face of the gimbal mounting sits flush with the inside of the mounting adaptor.

I spent an hour yesterday flying the simulator in this configuration and it all worked great

I will start the throttle gimbal soon. I've measured the sensor outputs and the Channel 3 magnet will need to be inverted (which is good because I need to remove that channel to get rid of the self centering spring and lever.

I'm thinking of using some hot glue or RTV silicone on the end of the magnets/gimbal shaft I've adjusted to prevent rotation when in storage/transport

Slow progress, but that's the price of having two young children.....
Last edited by jc9aj; Jun 06, 2019 at 06:13 PM.


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