Here are two versions of my cranks for the P-0
These are for the .050 displacement making it a true 1/2a
One has a brg shield, benefit is it keeps blown brg parts from trashing the sleeve. Stuffs the case a bit more also
One has the web cleared. Better balance is the benefit Smoother run I think, not sure I dont have a way to determine vibration rates. ..yet
Just wondering what the folks that have these engines would prefer. These are just blanks, I havent cut the window yet or heat treated them. sorry about the blurry pic's

Bearing shield would be my vote with the extra case fill.

I'm getting "cranky" in my old age.
These are actually kind of fun to make this way.
You can get kind of the" jist" of how I am making these, Maybe these pic's can help some one that may want to try it some day
Please feel free to comment on how you might do it or have to do it. I like all the Ideas.

Look good Toad-what steel are you using? I wonder-given what happened with the original OEM ones whether heat treating is actually an advantage in these sizes...?

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

Look good Toad-what steel are you using? I wonder-given what happened with the original OEM ones whether heat treating is actually an advantage in these sizes...?

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

I tried to anneal, then retreat the stock crank to a lower hardness, I still broke them on the test stand.
I have made these with 4140, and a few others, Heat treated them and had them ground. D2 is nice. Basically anything I can heat treat to 60+RC worked. I'll grind the brg surface hopefully in house this time . I hope I dont scrap a few in the process. I'm just goofin around here, Please suggest steels and such, Oh, the 5200 series of steels carbarized I think are the best, but damn they are hard to do, Too much scrap for me.

Here are the bearings I am going to use for these. I hope they work. I have to remove the Shields still

5-40 studs? I am down for two setup's Mel

I have two still in a shipping box never opened.
Another two with broke cranks two with your
other cranks both on outrigger hydro's and one
with Galbreath's sleeve fix with nelson plug head.

How easy do the bearings pop out little heat gun
action and wood dowl or such? Looks like only the
rear bearing needs replacing and bore out the case
a bit for the larger dia. crank.

I don't dare say what steel I am trying here...Just in case so I dont recommend something that sucks (bad info) if these break, The first ones I did of this steel are all still un broken. I hate being embarrassed LOL

I still have several tools to make to do the rest of the operations
I just wanna see how it goes for now and break a few on my own first...
I cant promise any yet.

I'll post pictures as I go. It is kinda fun.

Originally Posted by Amp Abuser

5-40 studs? I am down for two setup's Mel

I have two still in a shipping box never opened.
Another two with broke cranks two with your
other cranks both on outrigger hydro's and one
with Galbreath's sleeve fix with nelson plug head.

How easy do the bearings pop out little heat gun
action and wood dowl or such? Looks like only the
rear bearing needs replacing and bore out the case
a bit for the larger dia. crank.

I have a controlled hot plate, I set the temp for 240 F* sit the case on it, Then pick up the case and slap it gently on wood. the rear brg falls.
Just remember, every aluminum alloy loses temper above 312F* I dont dare take a case higher than 240. Just how I do it, It heats up from the back plate side, rarely getting even close to "too hot"

I'm too lazy to make Nelson head buttons

The Stock head button, re cut to set the deck height works great with the Turbo type plugs, I'm not going with Nelson head buttons. One less part to make from scratch

I don't see any need for it the turbo heads work great.
Thank you for the bearing removal tip. I will certainly
will follow those recommendations.

What about a radial mount those short lugs suck for mounting to beams.