It's glow right? Glow lines last a really long time. Only gas lines (Tygon mostly) harden over time.

If the clunk itself is loose, you will still be able to hear it when you rock the plane back and forth by pitching the nose up and nose down. (Keep it tilted slightly to one side during this so you don't get any lateral movement.) It shouldn't move if it is still attached to the fuel line.

If the line and clunk are detached, then it would depend on your tank setup. I usually point the brass line at the stopper slightly down so it ends basically in the center of the tank and thus the clunk has equal access to each of the rear corners. In this case, you would run out of fuel early (half a tank), but inverted would't make much difference. Given the style tank you had, I'm assuming the brass line through the stopper is either positioned like that or higher.

Alternately, I haven't seen this on a 4 stroke glow, but my 2 stroke DLE gas engines will quit when inverted if they are out of tune and too rich on the low end. I've only seen this on the 30-35cc engines, but both engines with multiple different carbs each displayed this behavior. In this case, with too much fuel coming through the carb, the orientation of the engine suddenly matters?

They were both position head down as yours is in the picture above.

Finally, this is why I've been slowly converting to clear tanks. With a clear tank, you'd be able to see what was up. More important for a gas tank, since the clunk line may actually harden in place, but kinda convenient for a glow tank as well.

It *would* be very nice to have a clear tank, I can see the front of the tank thu the air inlet of the cowl.
The semi opaque sullivan with a foot has two brass tubes, feed on the bottom hole pointed straight back and an overflow on the upper right.
Doesn't sound like the clunk came off of the fuel tube, that would be pretty loud.
This one is more of a muffled thump.

Originally Posted by Nergall

Alternately, I haven't seen this on a 4 stroke glow, but my 2 stroke DLE gas engines will quit when inverted if they are out of tune and too rich on the low end. I've only seen this on the 30-35cc engines, but both engines with multiple different carbs each displayed this behavior. In this case, with too much fuel coming through the carb, the orientation of the engine suddenly matters?

If you listen to the end of the vid, you can hear the engine lean out right before it quits.
Look at the side view pic and you can see the tank is about two inches below the carb. (center line below centerline)
So if it were too rich, it would get even richer when going inverted.
But since we store the Stampe by hanging it from the ceiling, it might be a while before I get around to checking it out.

Turns out the brass tube in the tank was pushed back and the clunk was jammed in the corner, all is well now.

We were given a nice astroflite Viking, 61" span that was so old that the foam rubber around the rx was crumbling.
we put a scorpion 22something motor with a 7" prop and a 1500 3s lipo in it, and here it is:

Astroflite Viking (1 min 37 sec)

My first successful flight.
Wind was strong and turbulent, causing wing tips to fold under.
Challenging but fun.

Paramotor gusty flight (2 min 18 sec)

Here's a link to our bleriot vid.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...riot-kit/page7

exciting flight! Looks good.

Thanks, I'm arranging for a larger engine to be installed.
Once I can get *above* the trees, she should do well throttled back.

I so rarely fly my opale... Love it, but it is a PIA to launch.
Wish there were more PPG options.

Punkair is a new company on the scene, they look pretty nice... their little Agilis weight shifting glider was a ton of fun but difficult to fly.

For those who missed flying on Black Friday.

Bleriot OS 70 FS (3 min 26 sec)

Much better with that motor. Looks like plenty of power now.

Yup! No lack there.
All I have to do is learn how to hold her straight on landing.
Will probably need to land in the grass.