Originally Posted by crezzlin

Guys have any of you had problems with the runcam split version, my camera wouldn't turn on most the time but i could see the betaflight osd still, just a black background, randomly it would boot to camera but then flicker and go off.. So i changed the Split for the Caddx turtle and now I have a picture but in flight it will randomly flicker black then come straight back.. Starting to think it could be the on board 5v rail but the 5v is always shown in the osd.

5 volts rail it is probably not, since Caddx needs at least 7 volts.

Sometimes I see black screen on mine after power up - nothing but OSD. Power cycle usually helps (well, actually, couple of times simply removing lens protector helped ). This happened several times to other GepRC/runcam product, Cygnet. So probably there is some issue with camera powering circuit, much less sever in my case.

Originally Posted by Herrsavage

and no new models requiring new lipos(so no 6S).

It flies quite well on 4S. I am not planning to switch to 6S.
But this is not LOS machine, it is big, heavy and fast. Really needs altitude and large spaces to be enjoyed properly.

Friend, I received my LC7 but something strange is happening. I did not change any factory settings, I bind to the R9 mini receiver that came in it, it worked out, I created the auxiliary keys, went on betaflight and set the flight modes, the arming key and the beeper, O What happens is that it arms the engines but does not spin. I had never seen it. Am I forgetting to observe anything? Could you make your Crocodil LC7 DUMP available for me to compare with mine?

Originally Posted by ROBSON KONIG

Friend, I received my LC7 but something strange is happening. I did not change any factory settings, I bind to the R9 mini receiver that came in it, it worked out, I created the auxiliary keys, went on betaflight and set the flight modes, the arming key and the beeper, O What happens is that it arms the engines but does not spin. I had never seen it. Am I forgetting to observe anything? Could you make your Crocodil LC7 DUMP available for me to compare with mine?

You need a GPS lock to spin up, i think you can bypass with a cli command..

I had a battery wire get smacked by a prop and was trying to think of a good way to secure them.

This is what I came up with, a 3D printed hoop that provides a spot to tuck in the battery wires after they are connected. It's printed from PETG in vase mode 1.6mm line width using a .08 nozzle. PETG ends up a bit flexible when it is one line wide.

When it gets smacked, the hoop deforms and absorbs energy and prevents the battery from taking a big hit. The hoop can bend down really far without breaking. Not a big deal if it breaks, they use 20g of PETG so about 60cents each.

At 1050g AUW with this 6s 2200, I was really concerned about the amount of force that would be transferred into the battery in a crash. I already have one that is a bit deformed.

Also pictured with new BR2508 motors because I had one of the originals burn up and wanted to switch to the cheap ones.

Cool design.
But I just use a rubberband

Yea, there are definitely simpler ways to just secure the battery cables, but when all you have is a hammer (3dprinter), everything starts to look like a nail.

I started off just trying to design a small little loop that I could slip the back battery strap through and then pass the cables through, I made some prototypes and when I saw how nicely the loop bent and sprung back up I realized the potential to make an energy absorbing bumper to protect the entire battery. I had been really worried ripping this thing with $70 batteries at such a high weight. It seemed like any crash would have the potential to destroy a battery, lipos just aren't designed to take impacts with that much weight coming down on them.

I just went out for a test flight and it flew great and was easy to take on and off when changing batteries. It would be very difficult to wreck a battery with this thing on. It also makes an awesome handle to picking up the quad and carrying it. I'm really stoked about this little bumper, haha.

Maybe 7" prop ducts are next?

Originally Posted by andyydna

Maybe 7" prop ducts are next?

gawd i hope so.
("ducts" are the single worst thing to happen to quads/FPV in last 5 years.)

Originally Posted by xanuser

gawd i hope so.
("ducts" are the single worst thing to happen to quads/FPV in last 5 years.)

How come? Just useless weight?

I don't really have any experience with a ducted quads, I've heard that they quiet it down, boost thrust and effeciency, and let it deal with minor bumps into small branches and stuff a bit better.

Originally Posted by andyydna

How come? Just useless weight?

I don't really have any experience with a ducted quads, I've heard that they quiet it down, boost thrust and effeciency, and let it deal with minor bumps into small branches and stuff a bit better.

"ducts"
add weight.
add drag.
decrease acrobatic performance.
the type of props that increase efficiency in ducts are not used because the tolerances between blade tip and the duct are not tight enough.
ducts and prop guards can get caught on branches easily.


they do bounce off stuff tho.

Any idea for how to secure the VTX antenna on this thing? The stock mount flexes in a crash or hard landing and pulls the mmcx connector right out of the vtx. I've tried using cable ties on the antenna cable but it will just slip out. The best spot to grip the antenna would be at the metal connection, but there is nothing near it to tie it off to. Kind of sketchy because if I crash the quad could sit there with a detached antenna and possibly kill the VTX.

Photo explanation attached.

Originally Posted by andyydna

I had a battery wire get smacked by a prop and was trying to think of a good way to secure them.

Chooped balance plug on brand new battery on the third flight - was exited and forgot to tuck it under Velcro strap

Any idea for how to secure the VTX antenna on this thing?

I thing whole backend needs serious redesign.
I crashed it into tree, antenna cable simply disconnected from VTX but GPS was destroyed. Luckily for me, I had spares. These are a bit smaller but connector is the same and no reconfiguration required
https://www.banggood.com/Beitian-Sma...?rmmds=myorder

Originally Posted by ROBSON KONIG

Friend, I received my LC7 but something strange is happening. I did not change any factory settings, I bind to the R9 mini receiver that came in it, it worked out, I created the auxiliary keys, went on betaflight and set the flight modes, the arming key and the beeper, O What happens is that it arms the engines but does not spin. I had never seen it. Am I forgetting to observe anything? Could you make your Crocodil LC7 DUMP available for me to compare with mine?

It will not spin if GPS return to to home is enabled as on of the modes, GPS unit is detected during power up and no sattelites are visible.
So either disable GPS mode for test flights by simply making it inactive in modes config of Betaflight (AFAIR no CLI commands should be involved, simply make return to home inactive) or disconnect GPS (not recommended)

Originally Posted by andyydna

I had a battery wire get smacked by a prop and was trying to think of a good way to secure them.

This is what I came up with, a 3D printed hoop that provides a spot to tuck in the battery wires after they are connected. It's printed from PETG in vase mode 1.6mm line width using a .08 nozzle. PETG ends up a bit flexible when it is one line wide.

When it gets smacked, the hoop deforms and absorbs energy and prevents the battery from taking a big hit. The hoop can bend down really far without breaking. Not a big deal if it breaks, they use 20g of PETG so about 60cents each.

At 1050g AUW with this 6s 2200, I was really concerned about the amount of force that would be transferred into the battery in a crash. I already have one that is a bit deformed.

Also pictured with new BR2508 motors because I had one of the originals burn up and wanted to switch to the cheap ones.

Hi Andyydna!
Thanks for sharing. Nice approach and clever solution to a problem worth solving. Will try something similar, but adapted to GENs ACE 4S-4000 and 5S-3300 LiPo's.
By the way - What type 2-blade props are you using? Intend to replace y 3-blade to 2-blade for longer flight time with my CL7.

Regards,
Torgeir

I appreciate that you started this CL7 thread, DutchRC. Have also viewed your vid's related to the CL7. Thanks!

Can anyone suggest what release of BF is optimal for the CL7? I see some have loaded 3.5.7. In case any of you have loaded higher version BF than delivered from GEPRC, it would be of interest to learn if you had to change any of the PID's or other parameters (compared with stock settings from GEPRC).

I'm about to setup my brand new CL7 and have search YouTube and the Internet related to how others have configured it. Using Drone Camp RC's video on BF setup for this drone as reference. Thanks Justin!

I aim for long range cinematic flight with as long flight time as possible (with reserves for safe return and landing ).

My planned setup:
CL7 1080P
4S-4000mAh (Alternatively 5S-3300mAh)
Stock props (But will also try HQ Durable Prop 7x4.5V1S two-blade)
TBS Crossfire Nano Diversity RX. CRSF on Uart 3.
I will manually configure the VTx according to where I fly and local laws for RF transmission.

Next up will be testing two-blade props and add antenna tracking for video signal (if I can implement it on this quad)

I would very much appreciate any inputs and experiences any CL7 pilot have.
I'll share mine experiences when I get airborne. But be a little patient - My experience is with RC planes (with FPV) and this quad is my first FPV quad. Will gain some experience with LiftOFF simulator before I get airborne with the CL7.

Cheers!
Torgeir