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Oct 19, 2019, 02:54 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
Anyone having issues with the Crocodile 7 and RapidFIRE mode 1? Was just doing my very
first FPV test flights in the front yard, flying no more than 200ft away, and two flights in
a row, I'd be about 50 feet away, and the image distorts to non-recognition
and starts scrolling sideways making it impossible to fly. Both times I was only
3-4 feet from the ground, so I could just decrease throttle, and disarm when I
heard it touch down (flipping over both times).

I don't think there's a known compatibility issue with the Micro Swift camera..
What about with this particular FC and OSD?
Generally the horizontal or vertical scrolling indicates viable timing
on the H-SYNC or V-SYNC pulses in the NTSC/PAL signal.

I have not seen the issue occur on the bench. Only while flying, after about 30 seconds
to a minute, which makes it quite annoying to diagnose.

On a side note, I measured the output power of the VTX. It runs *very* high.
setting -> Actual
25mw->90mW
100mW->250mW
200mW->500mW
400mW->900mW
800(what OSD shows as 600mW) -> 1200+mW.
Last edited by Daemon; Oct 19, 2019 at 03:12 PM.
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Oct 20, 2019, 10:43 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorgeirH
Thanks for your warning on this. To bad your CL7 went down hard. Hope you get it repaired and aioborn again.
Good points and well described. Will LockTite mine aswell.
Cheers!
Thanks! Great you find it useful!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xanuser
one of the downsides to active filtering, is the slightly off behavior warnings we used to get via flight characteristics are now pretty well filtered out. loose stack screws, cracked sprops and loose arms are very much harder to spot during flight. before the new filters it was easier to say "hmmm, shes not flying like she usually does, i wonder what is coming loose?"

would be super nice if BF had an OSD warning for when filtering is working harder than "usual".
Well, I can't blame the filtering. It was a pure pilot/maintenance/pre-flightcheck error, whatever you name it. I have grown to be a little too much overconfident with 5" drones, however flying at close distance is way different in case of failure compared to the potential consequences of a long range flight.
Oct 25, 2019, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Battery recommendations please! I have a GepRC CL7 Crocodile on the way to me, and am looking to buy suitable batteries for it. 6S seems like overkill to me for a long-range cruiser (but I'm happy to be corrected by those more familiar with the quad and how it flies), and I noticed that a lot of people fly 4S or 5S batteries with this.

What batteries would you recommend for this? I plan to use this for exactly what it was designed for - mostly smooth cruising over the landscape, with only the occasional punch and a lazy split S over a large tree or similar. I have other quads for crazy freestyle, this will be my easy rider! I'm thinking something in the 3300-4000 mAh 4S range (4S would allow for easy addition of the DJI Digital FPV system, if I ever decide to go that way), but would like to hear what batteries everyone here is flying.

So tell me - what batteries are you using with your GepRC CL7 Crocodile?
Oct 25, 2019, 10:37 AM
my RC. Your info
DutchRC's Avatar
Thread OP
You CAN see 6S as the more-power option but you can also see at as the more-efficient option.
The Amps will allso be higher on 4S..

Anyway! I run the quad on these:
https://hyperion-world.com/en/g8-6s-...-45c-4-35-4-2v
those are the first lipo's I tried on the CL7.. I haven't felt the need to try others..
Oct 25, 2019, 10:51 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchRC
You CAN see 6S as the more-power option but you can also see at as the more-efficient option.
The Amps will allso be higher on 4S..

Anyway! I run the quad on these:
https://hyperion-world.com/en/g8-6s-...-45c-4-35-4-2v
those are the first lipo's I tried on the CL7.. I haven't felt the need to try others..

Hmmm, I thought of that too. Drawing fewer amps would definitely be an advantage. And I guess running at a lower throttle setting will achieve exactly the same as running the 4S a little harder, but with the 6S I still get to have maximum punch. Thanks for sharing your experience, DutchRC!

Anyone else? Please share your opinion, I need the distraction! I’ve got nothing else to do until the quad gets here.
Last edited by macnoodle; Oct 25, 2019 at 11:39 AM.
Oct 31, 2019, 02:46 PM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
For me, it comes down to Wh versus form factor.
With the stock GoPro mount, it's tough to fit a large capacity
4S pack on top. If you go up to a 6S you can get 50% higher
Watt hours without the pack needing to be any longer, and
the punch to handle the added weight when you do need to
recover after a long dive down a cliff face or mountain ridge.

If you strap your battery to the bottom, then it doesn't
matter as much, although 4S does feel pretty squishy
when you want or need to change directions fast.
I'm used to running 2400+Kv motors on 4-5S on 5 inch quads,
so 1700Kv with 7 inch props can use more voltage to
respond quicker.

[edit]See attached. Just got these packs in today.
Turnigy 6S 3300mAh 30-40C. 136mm long, so if you stick the round end forward
they just barely tuck into the GoPro mount and leave the GPS free to the sky.
I have not flown on these packs yet, so I don't know how they'll hold up.
Last edited by Daemon; Nov 01, 2019 at 12:01 AM.
Nov 03, 2019, 07:00 PM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
Made some flights with the 6S 3300 pack pictured above. Flies great. Fast, smooth, just
enough punch to do some mild acro. Unfortunately my last flight clipped a tree, crashed
and I broke an arm so out of commission for a while.

Can confirm that *all* the screws should be pulled out, and Loctited. I made sure they were
all tight before my first flight. I lost 2 in the air, and a couple more were loose after
less than 10 flights total.
Nov 04, 2019, 09:10 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon
Can confirm that *all* the screws should be pulled out, and Loctited. I made sure they were
all tight before my first flight. I lost 2 in the air, and a couple more were loose after
less than 10 flights total.
Which screws actually fell out? I know you said Locktite all of them, I guess this is just morbid curiosity. My Crocodile arrived today, and I want to make sure I don't miss anything in preparations for the maiden flight...
Nov 05, 2019, 01:03 AM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
It was a random selection of screws across the bottom. One from an arm gone, another one under one
of the front posts. One more on the bottom and one on top into the arm, were loose.

BTW, here's a vid cruising around on the above mentioned 6S 3300mAh packs.
Cruising with GEPRC Crocodile 7 Pro on 6S (4 min 40 sec)
Nov 05, 2019, 04:45 AM
Registered User

GepRC CL7 Crocodile - a 7" 6S Cruiser - Owners Thread


Because of where I live, I expect to do a lot of flying along beaches, etc, so there will be a fair bit of sea spray around. Iím thinking about conform coating the electronics, but have never done this on any of my quads before (some came precoated when I bought them as BNF). Are there any tips or tricks that I should know about? I realise this is not a Crocodile-specific question, but since Iím already here and itís the Crocodile that will get its electronics painted, I thought I might as well ask. Thanks in advance!

P. S. Nice flying, Daemon!
Nov 05, 2019, 11:35 AM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
https://www.getfpv.com/learn/fpv-diy...v-electronics/
Do recommend picking up the UV flashlight, as it'll make it every clear where the conformal
coating is and isn't. Just keep it out of any switches.
Nov 06, 2019, 12:01 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon
https://www.getfpv.com/learn/fpv-diy...v-electronics/
Do recommend picking up the UV flashlight, as it'll make it every clear where the conformal
coating is and isn't. Just keep it out of any switches.
Thanks, Daemon! It's always the things that look simple that usually aren't, so I'm glad I asked the question first. And while I'm asking questions, here is another:

Does anyone here know of an online tutorial or YouTube video which shows just how the GPS should be set up in Betaflight? I assume that a failsafe should automatically kick the quad into Angle Mode and it should then head back to the take-off point (similar, but not quite the same as DJI drones), but I just want to make sure that I have all the settings configured correctly. Having never set up GPS from scratch in any model before this, any pointers would be very much appreciated.
Nov 06, 2019, 03:09 AM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
Search for Joshua Bardwell's video/s on how to setup GPS rescue.
It is *not* a RTH feature like a DJI drone or even iNav. It's purely for emergency rescue and
really meant to just get it to climb up, and fly toward home, such that you have time to regain
control and take over and fly normally. If you don't take back control, it will fly toward home,
start descending and do a soft crash with a fair bit of forward speed (softer than falling vertically
to the ground with the motors off) about 100m away.
Except that the Croc 7's out of the box settings have minimum radius set to 100m,
which means if you activate GPS rescue inside that radius it *will* in fact just shut the
motors off and fall to the ground (already did that once). I reduced the minimum
radius and lowered the sat count to zero so I can still arm and fly with no GPS lock,
if I so desire. Also turned off the really stupid default 100m altitude osd warning
(blinks any time you climb over 100m).
Nov 06, 2019, 08:17 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon
Search for Joshua Bardwell's video/s on how to setup GPS rescue.
It is *not* a RTH feature like a DJI drone or even iNav. It's purely for emergency rescue and
really meant to just get it to climb up, and fly toward home, such that you have time to regain
control and take over and fly normally. If you don't take back control, it will fly toward home,
start descending and do a soft crash with a fair bit of forward speed (softer than falling vertically
to the ground with the motors off) about 100m away.
Except that the Croc 7's out of the box settings have minimum radius set to 100m,
which means if you activate GPS rescue inside that radius it *will* in fact just shut the
motors off and fall to the ground (already did that once). I reduced the minimum
radius and lowered the sat count to zero so I can still arm and fly with no GPS lock,
if I so desire. Also turned off the really stupid default 100m altitude osd warning
(blinks any time you climb over 100m).
Thanks! I knew it wasn't quite as automated as the DJI system, but all I need it to do is start heading back home if I ever get myself into a situation that results in a failsafe. I'm happy to fly it back as soon as control is regained.
Nov 17, 2019, 12:19 AM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
Finally got around to testing GPS rescue on the croc7 today. It works but, can be fooled by
stiff winds and if you've flown high anywhere during the flight, it will "stop" and climb to that
max altitude plus another 50m. Because of the way GPS rescue always climbs first before
trying to actually go home this extra climb time can cause it to drift a *long* way away
from home before it starts trying to fly forward and during that time it
may randomly rotate away from home.

Let's say the wind is from the north, and you're flying fast north to south due east of your
position when GPS rescue is triggered. The quad will instantly yaw toward home, but
initially continue flying south fast, while it starts to climb. It'll eventually level itself out,
but continue to drift downwind to the S while it climbs to max alt + 50m. While it climbs it
may slowly yaw away from home (for reasons unknown) until it's pointing SE.. Once it
reaches the calculated fly-home alt, it will start flying forward (now well SE of home position,
and pointing SE) thinking it is still pointing toward home. Eventually it'll realize that the
course it's on is moving away from home, and slowly change course to point back
toward home. By now though it's potentially so far away from home that you're out of
control range, so all you can do is wait and hope it claws its way back upwind to get home.


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