Dymond Take it Easy upgrade - RC Groups
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Jan 23, 2005, 09:44 PM
Registered User
trident58's Avatar

Dymond Take it Easy upgrade

About a month ago, during the torrential downpour in So. California, I decided to see if I could put some life back into my old Dymond Take it Easy electric glider. In its stock form, the TIE was an absolute dog, taking about 2 minutes to get to 400 feet. You also had to spend about 20 minutes between flights waiting for the motor to cool down. I pulled out the stock motor and replaced it with a Maxx Products 05 cobalt motor (6 wind) and a Graupner 8/4.5 CAM folder (HL sells an adaptor so the cam prop fits the 4 mm shaft on the motor). Total cost, about $95. Tested it out yesterday- rate of climb just about tripled, much longer motor run time on the same battery (1900SCR 7 cell), and the average flight, in almost dead air, was about 25 minutes. That relatively cheap upgrade actually made that thing fun to fly!
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Jan 24, 2005, 05:50 AM
JimNM's Avatar
WOW - that is a pretty heafty upgrade - Rloose, by flying buddy, has a TIE -and he's the one that finally convinced me to go with a gearbox. His little 480 adn 3.33 gb climbs like mad on only 8 cells. Not a bad investment for that kind of increase in power. Have fun with it -

Fly'em High
Jan 24, 2005, 08:34 AM
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trident58's Avatar
Yeah, I've been thinking about adding a gearbox too, but since I just finished my Cumic+ (AXI 2820/10, 12x8, 8 1950FAUP's), I've been happy with keeping the TIE as a beater plane for spur-of-the-moment flying sessions. Can't see myself investing any more money into it. It's definetly served its purpose!
Jan 24, 2005, 10:00 AM
rloose's Avatar



I'm not sure how to spell it or pronounce it, but it is the relative angle between the plane of the wings and the plane of the horizontal stabilizer. Dymond sells several sailplanes with the same fuse as the TIE. This fuse has a BIG relative angle between wings and horizontal stab...take a close look.

I don't know WHY Dymond put in so much, but you might want to experiment with reducing it. You can shim up the trailing edge of the wing or...... I finallly did radical surgery on the fuse and removed around 3/16 " from the front of the wing saddle, making the wing and horizontal stab much closer to parallel. I still have a little relative up on the leading edge of the wing.

Result: the plane is much more stable, no porpoise behavior, floats forever and seems to climb faster with same motor/prop/gearbox. The dive test makes more sense now too.

Jan 24, 2005, 10:12 AM
Registered User
trident58's Avatar
You know, I have noticed the plane has a tendency to balloon upwards when power is applied. I've been really lazy as far as modifying incidence, decalage, etc., so I would launch the plane with some down trim, and then retrim when I shut off the motor. A minor hassle, but after hearing what you did, I might just put a small shim under the trailing edge- should have the same effect. Not sure I want to slice any more plastic off the fuselage-it seems pretty flimsy. Forgot to mention one other mod I made- I lengthened the rudder by about 1/2". Did this by putting a little slit in the back of the rudder, and then inserting a piece of 1/32" ply. This has greatly improved the turning ability.
Jan 24, 2005, 10:51 AM
rloose's Avatar

More Rudder

Hey Jon-

Thanks for the hint, I could use more rudder. You are right about the fuse being flimsy. I had to put a cross brace in the middle of the opening after the radical fusectomy. This makes getting the battery in or out difficult. I am currently running a 'Racing Devils' 3S1P 3000mAh Lipoly. I get 1/2 hour flights with lots of zooming around. I love it!


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