Great Planes Yak 55 Build Thread - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Jan 23, 2005, 05:51 PM
Registered User

Great Planes Yak 55 Build Thread

I am building a Great Planes Yak 55 right now and I thought I would start a build thread of my progress so far. I have been supprisingly happy with the plane so far and espically how easy the plane actually is to build!!! I will be posting pictures when I put them on the computer.... HAHA This build over all has taken me about 2 hours, and all I have left to do is mount the radio equipment, and them it is off to the park for the MAIDEN!!!
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jan 23, 2005, 08:01 PM
Registered User
good luck
Jan 23, 2005, 08:10 PM
Registered User
Thanks!!! I will be posting some pics later of the build!
Jan 24, 2005, 01:39 AM
Registered User
I have a slight problem connecting the servos.. How do you connect the servos on this thing! I have no Idea how the FASLINK works, or what it even looks like for that matter!!! Can anyone help me out! Can I see some detailed pictures of a Servo connection on your YAK??

Jan 24, 2005, 09:44 AM
Registered User
anyone... I really need an answer..........
Jan 24, 2005, 10:20 AM
Hey p51flyer,

The micro FasLink is the little black connector in the included hardware pack that looks like a half clevis. You slip the hole over the end of the L-bend and snap the back end on to the rod.
Jan 24, 2005, 10:24 AM
The included servo arm extenders are made of a thin shiny plastic material. Lightly sand the surface of the servo arm extenders before you glue them to your servo arms. This will give the surface a little "bite" and allow a stronger CA joint.
Jan 24, 2005, 01:25 PM
Registered User
alvinm's Avatar
You may consider not using the extenders for the elevator and rudder,my stock h55 horns have plenty of throw.I did use them for the ailerons.
Jan 24, 2005, 02:50 PM

How do these planes fly? Do they handle wind well?

I have been flying my Tensor 4D, but it does not tolorate wind very well. I want to build a mono wing and am torn between a Tribute or the GP Yak 55.

Which one handles wind better?

Sorry for so many questions.

Jan 24, 2005, 05:31 PM
Registered User
alvinm's Avatar
If you add a spar to the tribute to cure the bow problem the wing has then I personally would go with the tribute.It seems to fly good right from the start where the yak may have some cg issues and in my oppinion,not a good indoor plane if thats what you do.That said,now that I have found the cg that works best for my plane it flies well too.The tribute is an easier plane to fly.
Jan 24, 2005, 05:57 PM
Thanks Alvinm,

I am looking for an outdoor only plane. That is why I am interested in the GP YAK 55. I was hoping that it would handle the wind better for a foamy?

BR, MarkC
Jan 24, 2005, 06:49 PM
Registered User
CaN i see some sort of pics with the servos installation.. I realy do not know how to do this. This is putting me in a bind with the plane being built...

Jan 24, 2005, 08:33 PM
Registered User
alvinm's Avatar
You want a plane that handles wind good,get the judge 540
Here is a pic of the pushrod.Its a little fuzzy but the pushrod has an L bend and this piece has a hole.You insert the L through the hole then clip the body onto the straight part of the pushrod.
Jan 24, 2005, 09:05 PM
Registered User
so the "L" in the wire goes into the hole, then you connect the faslink thing to hold it in place??? DAMN I am so confused!!!
Jan 24, 2005, 09:14 PM
Registered User
The faslink is just a plastic piece (the black one in Alvinm's pic. After pushing the pushrod 90 degree end through the control horn (and nothing is keeping it from sliding right back out) you slide the faslink on the pushrod end and up against the control horn. The other end of the faslink has a fat part with a split in it. That snaps over the pushrod so it cannot slide out. Look at his picture and you can see.

I posted this at another forum:
I would (as a first time electric foamy builder) like to point out a few minor points.

1) The instructions say glue the wing together and THEN strip the covering (clear on bottom and colored/clear on top) from both the top and bottom 3/4 wide down the center. Do yourself a big favor and peel the covering before you glue it down even better. I spent quite a while peeling tiny strips and mumbling about the paternal relations of the people who wrote this instruction book.
2) When installing the elevator, there are two pieces supplied and used that look like black three-armed servo arms- called control horn/spacers. The holes in these are too small for the supplied pushrod. I heated the end of the pushrod and pushed it through the arm. This is not fun when the elevator is installed! I'd melt the hole bigger first and leave the pushrod attached before I put the elevator halves together on the plane.
3) The pushrods for the elevator and rudder are said to have z-bends in the instructions. They do not. They have a 90 degree bend for a fast-link. They DO supply enough fast-links, so it is no problem.
4) To cut the holes/slots for the control horns, I used a 1/4" chisel blade (sharp only on the end). I bought a cheap Chinese knock-off exacto knife at the local Dollar Tree (dollar store) and it came with the perfect blade. Again, heat the pushrod wire and force it through the tiny holes in the control horns before installing them! The rudder horn is supposed to go through the hinge inside the rudder. I was afraid I'd crush the whole thing, so I heated my cheapy exacto chisel blade and it zipped right through.
5) You will have to cut slots in the foam for the servo mounts or cut them off. I also cut a slot for the servo wire. I used GWS Naro Std servos all around and they fit perfectly. One of my servo screws couldn't quite reach through to the servo shaft through the added servo arm. I had to glue it on (thus making that servo permanentely attached to that arm. I was tempted to pull the screw and cut out the hole so the screw could go through and into the servo arm hole where it belongs. I didn't know if super glue would be strong enough to hold without the screws help. If I did it again I'd epoxy the servo arm extenders and cut the hole after it set. Longer screw would work... if you can get some. Hey, if any of YOU know whether it is strong enough, please let me know and I'll pull my screw and wallow out the screw holes.)
6) The supplied hinge tape is just under 3/4" wide. This was fine for the top of the wing, but narrow for the bottom. By the time the tape on the bottom goes down into the pre-tapered edges of the wing and servo there is less than a 1/4 on the bottom wing and aileron surfaces. I'd feel better with 1" tape.
7) The longest pushrod is rudder, the next longest is the elevator. If you are assembling all your pushrods first, as I did for every one after the elevator, lay them in place first to make sure every end is pushed through the right way, and the pushrod is rightside up.

Remember, I'm new at this, so feel free to point out any faulty thinking/ bad ideas.
The rest is a piece of cake.

I'll maiden it this week. It is sitting on the table ready to go!


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Great Planes Yak-55 BeechSkipperDude 3D Flying 77 Apr 25, 2009 10:46 AM
F/S Great Planes YAK 55 Electric deedee Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 2 Mar 08, 2005 09:09 PM
Question Great Planes Yak 55 battery delima!!! p51flyer 3D Flying 81 Feb 04, 2005 01:41 AM
anyone have the Great Planes Yak 55 3D??? p51flyer 3D Flying 4 Jan 10, 2005 11:40 AM
Great Planes Yak 55 3D ARF SportsFlyer 3D Flying 5 Dec 27, 2004 09:27 PM