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Quote:
As mentioned, you need to remove a little bit of material from the plastic shroud (at the bottom of the hole) to get the FPV camera to fit in the middle hole. Here's some photos, hopefully they help. |
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Talon GT Rebel in the best scenes |
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viper1,
thanks for taking the trouble to post the esc info - I needed it too! Finally getting used to the idea that the big air damn up front isn't having any noticeable effect on flying... but it will scoop up junk on landing. After flying (foolishly) with the tail support still stuck on the rear, (flew quite well with it on) the prop broke on landing. Only had a 7x6 on hand which worked but any favorite prop sizes yet? PaunFD likes the 8x6 it seems. 8x5s aren't readily available around my area... |
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Admittedly i fly pretty heavy with a 5000mah but found the 8x6 drew more current than i wanted at a given speed. I've settled on 8x5, master air screw do a nice one. I chewed through a few of the stock props, luck of the draw on what they might hit when landing i guess.
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Thx, ordered some. Thought maybe a 9x4.5 ish also..
(wish this thread would move to the fpv section..) |
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I ... like 8x6, because in my area wind is ... usually around 40 - 60kph, so the plane needs to fly at at least 80kph if i want it to go anywhere against such wind.
A 8x5 prop does draw 1 - 1,5Amp plus for flying at 80kph than 8x6 prop, but it is more efficient at speeds around 50 to 60kph. To me 50 - 60kph is no use ... my plane will not go anywhere. For what is worth, in the future, i plan to change the stock 1300KV motor with a 1400Kv one or even 1500KV one and still keeping the 8x6 prop, for the very same reason: i need at least 80kph air-speed, power-plant draws under 10Amps for a reasonable range, and of course for a reasonable amount of flight time. A 9x4,5 prop will generate way much thrust - which plane does not need for straight and level flight. If you want to make aerobatic stuns with it, than going for a 9x4,5 prop is a good idea. Prop diameter vs pitch can be seen like .... torque vs horse-power on a vehicle ... A vehicle can have thousands of newton-meter torque and 50 horse-power, or can have lie 100 NM torque and 300HP ... Of course there are some props more efficient then others for given task, and for speed and ... of course for thrust. For this plane (and any plane), to sustain a given speed - in straight and level flight will require a certain amount of thrust - while the air will leave the prop-blades at some value of speed. |
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Last edited by PaunFD; Dec 22, 2019 at 02:07 PM.
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Thanks!
Converting the video to a Tarot vhf system as I think it can be trusted to go a longer distance. Been a real solid flyer s far. |
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So I decided to step into long range FPV and bought myself a Talon GT Rebel for Christmas. I have been flying RC on and off for over 20 years and have experience in planes, jets(EDF), helicopters and Quadcopters. With this plane I have had to deal with many firsts... first time building an FPV plane, first time using crossfire, first time using Jumper T16 and open TX, first time using a flight controller with inav, and first time using 1.3ghz video. I spent weeks reading all information I could find on the setup of all the components and had a chance to maiden the plane last weekend. First flight lasted about 3.5 seconds and didn't end well as the plane rolled 90 degrees as soon as it left the hand almost recovered but throttled back to be safe. Went home added some glue and had it ready for flight number 2. This one went even worse and rolled 180 degrees and nosed in doing way more damage than the first. Added a bunch more glue and went for flight number 3. This time I reduced the throttle to about 65 percent and finally got it in the air. The plane stilled rolled left but not nearly as bad as the first 2 flights. I was able to do the auto trim and auto tune with manual, acro and angle modes working ok. I was hoping to get some feedback on a couple of questions to help me make some changes for upcoming flights.
1. Recommended throttle position on launch? 2. inav board alignment: If I would like to bring the nose up a little do I use a positive or negative number for the board pitch angle? 3. I will soon be using a 4S2P li-ion pack and was wondering what others are doing about the lipo cutoff with the stock speed controller. I was thinking that setting it to nicad/nimh would shut it off which seems like the safest option for not losing the plane. I realize there are other risks regarding the batteries by doing this but wanted to know what others are doing? Current setup: Jumper T16 with TBS Crossfire TX Lite TBS Micro V2 Receiver Matek F722 Wing running latest version of inav Matek 630mw 1.3ghx VTX Beitian 880 GPS Module (not using the compass) Runcam 5 Black Version HD Camera Foxeer Falkor 2 FPV Cam Zippy 3700mah 4S Battery Stock servos and motor on an APC 8x6e prop (stock prop broke on the first flight and not readily available) |
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I launch at full throttle, but give it a football type throw with a fairly high AoA. She lists hard to the left every time but has sufficient altitude to recover herself.
The only failure Ive had was trying a more gentle launch at lower throttle. You've bitten off quite a lot with the project, I'd be pretty stoked with the result so far. |
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Last edited by mshagg2; Feb 06, 2020 at 06:23 PM.
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I would suggest to add a 3poss switch to add some up-elevator for launching.
An of course WOT. Be aware that if the plane exceeds 1400g things will work complicate a bit more as the plane's stall speed will increase. Great idea of adding some nose-up attitude from inav board alignment. |
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I got lazy lately so for last 70 flights i launched the plane in FBWA (arduplane's angle mode). But as soon as the plane enters into aerodynamically controlled flight trajectory, i reduce the throttle, switch to manual to ... check how the plane behaves ... doing an "airfield tour". Then i switch back to FBWA, and ... put on my goggles and away she goes!
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