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Mar 18, 2019, 02:50 PM
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RickVB's Avatar
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Sorry guys, I haven't been holding back the last couple weeks, it's just that family stuff has gotten in the way, and I decided to move the finishing of my Lysander up in the queue (although I admit that was partially due to my realization that my April 1 completion date for this project was, shall we say, "overly optimistic" ). Since that's rapidly approaching completion, I will be back to working on the B-24 full time (well, hobby time anyway). Also, there were some communications going on with VQ and others in the background about some additions, which I will talk about later.

Continuing with where I was a couple of digressions back, the manual calls for 12 channels with 23 servos for the fuel configuration: 5 high torque (2 ailerons, 2 elevator, 1 nose wheel), 6 mini 9gram (2 rudder, 4 throttle), and 12 mini 17gram ( flap, 4 turret, 4 bomb drop).

I have a major disagreement with using mini servos of any sort on the control surfaces of a model of this size, so I investigated other options for the rudders and flaps. In both areas, standard servos will indeed not fit, but we still need more than the 30-50in-oz that even an expensive mini can provide. I have a bunch of Turnigy wing servos that I got on sale a while back, and I think I can easily enough reengineer the mounts to use them (they clearly will fit in both places). The TGY-811 are rated at about 115 in-oz for the rudders, and the TGY-813 will give me about 125 in-oz, so those should be good to go.

For the throttles, I want to use metal gear minis just for security in a high vibration zone, so I've opted for Hextronik MG-14's. I'm sticking with minis here where I would generally use standard Hitec's or Futaba's because the mounting space there look very tight. We will see.

For the five standard servos, I will be using Power HD 13kg metal gear servos. The turrets and bomb bay (although I'm unsure how they are to be applied there as of yet, since there are no instructions) should be fine with my regular minis, Hextronik HXT900; I can't imagine the turrets would need more than few in-oz so 17g ones would be overkill. In addition, as I pointed out, the nose gear doors' closing mechanism is not referenced in the instructions, so I may need one or two more there, again we'll see.

So here' s the final lineup as of now:
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Mar 18, 2019, 05:53 PM
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Good info .
Edwin
Mar 19, 2019, 01:04 PM
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I been using Kingmax DCS2107 WITH 98 oz torque there on both the elevator on my VQ 30cc Bearcat and Dauntless not had any issues and there metal gear minis
Mar 19, 2019, 03:08 PM
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RickVB's Avatar
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I didn't measure the depths, but at 31mm the Kingmax DCS2107 is probably too deep for the outboard flap slots, and definitely too deep for the rudder spots.

Fitment justifications for my choices:

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The rails in all positions are about 30mm apart.

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The flaps have two servo linkages, one near each end. This is the inboard position, where a standard servo would fit, but the rails are spaced for it.

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With the addition of some longitudinal rails, the wing servos fit just fine. Note the flap horn and ball end at the bottom. In the lower right is part of one of the semi-fowler slider hinges. I think it's really cool that the linkages are internal; too bad the aileron ones aren't too.

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In the outboard position, the wing section is much thinner, so the height of the servo is limited. This is why you can't use a standard servo in the inboard position, unless you want to try to match motion on two different servos. There are some ~30mm long mini's out there that are short enough to fit, but I chose to go with what I had. I'm going to have to pay careful attention to linkage angles so they don't differ between the inboard and the outboard, to avoid binding.

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In the tailplanes, a standard servo isn't even close to fitting for the rudders.

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A mini will fit, but the rails would have to be moved. You can go with a larger mini here (same size as the flaps).

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The wing servo fits nicely; I will remove the rails and provide my own mounting points. The bottom tab will have to extend into the lip area.
Mar 19, 2019, 04:06 PM
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Here is the mounting measurements of the king max DCS 2107 with a new battery in micrometer
Last edited by Aerogasrc; Mar 19, 2019 at 04:59 PM.
Mar 19, 2019, 04:44 PM
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RickVB's Avatar
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I can't read the displays in your photos... in any case, ZYHobbies.com lists the measurements as 29.2X13.9X31mm. Are you sure that is a DCS2107?
http://www.zyhobby.com/kingmax-dcs21...rvo_p0449.html
Mar 19, 2019, 05:02 PM
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The king max were a direct fit in the elevator on both didn't have to modify anything.

Curious did Tomas say what servos they used on there prototype?
Mar 19, 2019, 11:50 PM
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RickVB's Avatar
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In the elevator or rudder?

Tomas hasn't told me what they used on the control surfaces.
Mar 20, 2019, 05:51 AM
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In the elevator, the rudder used a standard servo on these models
Mar 22, 2019, 11:49 PM
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RickVB, what is the retract mounting plate dimensions?
Last edited by Aerogasrc; Mar 29, 2019 at 01:09 PM.
Apr 05, 2019, 06:05 PM
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Sorry guys, several other things have been distracting me from this project.

Aero, the wing gear mounts and nose mount are in both cases rails about 1 7/8" wide in total, about 1" apart. I've attached photos so you can gather some other dimensions; let me know if there is anything else specific you would like to know.
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Apr 07, 2019, 08:45 AM
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Eh, life happens. If you were me it'd be a year before you finished lmao, you are making fine progress and this thread is really cool to follow.

Hopefully we can see a flight video of this thing in the summer if all goes well.
Apr 21, 2019, 02:59 PM
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from post #14
"Oh, that is a final release silver one? Its very... matte... I've seen Witchcraft IRL back when it was The Dragon and His Tail and that thing was SHINY. Maybe its just the lighting or he matte sprayed it?"

That's me in the photo with my B-24, Old Ironsides way back in 2007. It was painted with PPG aluminum with each panel buffed out but not clear coated. It aged well but developed some oxidation like the full size ones would have in the South Pacific. When I rebuilt the airplane(due to crash) I clear coated after the repainting so it'll look good longer.

I'm currently building the silver VQ B-24 and buffed a few panels as a test, it looks pretty good, makes the panels stand out from each other- so I'll do the rest.

-Mark
b24project.info
Last edited by MarkIam; Apr 21, 2019 at 03:17 PM.
Apr 21, 2019, 03:01 PM
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I'm enjoying this thread, i'm also putting this ARF/kit together but doing the silver one and it'll be electric powered like my first one. Tomas and his team have done a great job on the project but I have to agree this is a builders ARF, the manual is VERY basic. It will be great to see more Liberators in the skies above.

Took me 2 years to build my first one -plans only, no manual, no nothing- and was nervous every time I flew it because of all the work that went into it. This one I plan on having fun with!

-Mark
b24project.info
Last edited by MarkIam; Apr 21, 2019 at 04:10 PM. Reason: dual post, tried to respond to specific post but wasn't
Apr 21, 2019, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1
Subbed. Looks exactly like what I would expect for a four engine bomber arf. I wouldn't be following instructions for things like servo placement, tank setups, and so on anyway. I have my own way of doing it. Does the manual include any firewall setup specs, out thrust or down thrust?
Edwin
0 degrees is correct.

The original B-24 shown on page 1 was constructed from Dan Palmer plans. Dan Palmer drew his plans from factory drawings and are very scale.

The VQ Warbirds B-24 is based on that and while not perfectly scale in places it does takes a lot of the work out of the job of getting it in the air and for that I am very happy! Also it would be very easy and fun to really scale it out if you wanted to.

All four engines thrust lines are set to 0 taken from the fuselage longerons, straight ahead, no right, left,up or down thrust, on this model the thrust line is the top hatch deck(up/down)and fuselage root ribs (left/right). All four propellers rotated the same direction. I think the best way to set it is to put the wing on and put a level on the hatch deck , get everything level and square, then go from there.

It flew perfect setup that way.


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