Thread Tools
This thread is privately moderated by yqrninja, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Feb 19, 2019, 03:18 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Build Log

Odyssey ECL - control surfaces and micro connectors

We are in the middle of winter here on the Canadian prairies, coldest February in 130 years, and no real break in site. The Arthobby Odyssey ECL project has been stalled since the fall when I tackled a couple big house hold projects. I am glad that those projects are done, any very happy to stop making daily visits to Home Depot. I need to have this bird ready for warmer weather.

Next step was to cut the control surfaces. I read the instructions and reviewed the process by watching Sorenís video, and it was helpful.
Arthobby wing, aileron/flaps cut (5 min 34 sec)
. In the end itís not difficult, however compared to what I am used to building it is very different. While we are on the subject, I was confused by the drawing and instructions compared to what I saw on other peopleís Odyssey pictures. Pictures of others Odyssey showed no gap between flap and aileron. I was confused because the drawings are different. SoÖ.I posted a question on RCGroups (#4200 Ö ) regarding control surfaces. In the end, I just followed the drawing.

Next is cutting out the servo bays and building the servo boxes, again I was careful not to get carried away with epoxy, reminding myself of the goal of keeping this thing as light as possible. I nearly skipped the step when epoxying a servo bay sized piece of fiberglass in the servo bay. But I did it anyway, using the paper towel method of soaking up excess epoxy, resulting in just a fraction of a Gram in weight gain. Yes I measured itÖ.

I am planning on taping and gluing in the servos in to the bays. Thinking about control rods. Do I use simple Z-Bends, build a carbon fiber control rod, do I go with ball link connectors? Thatís when I noticed that the flaps servo cover was different than the Aileron. Why? I emailed Andre @ Arthobby for some clarification. The supplied instructions makes no mention of a top drive flap. Andre suggested following the instructions from the Silent 3.4. I am glad I discovered this before I mounted the control horns. I would have been pissed to screw that step up.

Right now I am installing the micro Deanís connectors in the wings to keep the servo wiring neat and tidy. This is another first for me, a small incision and then carve out foam to make room for the deanís connector is required. Some basic soldering to connect wing servo wires to the micro connectors. The Aileron and Flap servo share both power (+) and Ground (-), as per the wiring diagram, and individual signal (S) wires. I then used a blend micro balloons and 30 minute epoxy to mount the male side of the connector on the outer wing tips. Similarly mounting the female side of the micro connector is the same, just take care as alignment is important here. Using 30 minute epoxy gave me enough working time to ensure both sides mated properly, then I partially installed the wingtip just enough to ensure proper alignment (left it that way until the epoxy cured. I am happy with the results, perfect fit.

A note on servo wire, I didn't have any servo cable on hand, but I had plenty of USB cables laying around. I stripped off the outer layers and harvested the individual cables. Good quality too....

Struggling with the micro connects at the fuse to wing......"is it possible to have no wires coming out of the wing?" using the micro connectors. so.....a little experimenting. I am just back from the soldering iron, it's still hot, I think the answer is yes. but I still have to test the wiring before committing to this...It's hard to be delicate when hiding the wiring (this makes me nervous). Trying to get the connector installed flush, i think, it is too much stress for the solder joint. Then I realized I don't have to be flush. So I come up with this...... (see pictures) I will finish the fit, test the wiring, and then mount it with epoxy (lightly).

{Update #1] After some testing with the deans connector, I just didn't have a good feeling that these light gauge wire and the connectors would stand the test of time. So I followed my instincts and decided to move on to my next option. Replace the wire with standard 22awg servo wire, and try the MPX style connectors.

[Update #2] a few weeks later....] Well, that was a waste of time. Quite a bit of time too. I don't have a lot of free time to myself, I only get a small amount of time to do stuff myself. Its so frustrating wasting time. I had an unexpected set back. Honestly it threw me for a loop, resulting in me abandoning my plans. (chickened out). After all that soldering in confined spaces. Upon powering up the Rx and servos, instantly the flap servo smoked. In a moment of complete ignorance (it was 2am) I forgot the BEC when plugging in the 3 Cell LiPo. Accidentally pushing too many volts for servo to handle (5-7.4 volts), and set free the smoke.... I was so frustrated, so I just started over. Running new wire, replaced the servo. I used a 6 pin MPX style connector to make the connections at the fuse instead of the 6 pin deans. This was not how I envisioned it and I don't feel great about it to be honest. I don't think its as elegant, convenient or a light as it could have been. But.... it won't fail me. (If next winter I still don't like it I will redo it again. (now that I see the MPX connectors first hand I have an Idea, but it will have to wait).

Aileron Push rods, pretty straight forward I used a clevis instead of Z-bends. Flap push rods, this was my first try at top drive. Super easy, I just followed the instructions from the "Silent 3.4" instructions. I don't love z-bends but they worked out fine.

If I did it all again... I would use 26awg servo wire instead of 22awg. I would make the servo bays a little bit bigger because getting the control horn screw out is a pain in the ass....and I would make sure to use my BEC (I still can't believe I did that...)
Last edited by yqrninja; Mar 18, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Feb 21, 2019, 08:57 AM
Registered User
I'm interested in following how you install the micro Deans connectors in the wings, as I'm building a DLG that will use the same type of connection between the wing servos and then a matching connector in the fuse, so that when you mount the wing, the connectors automatically match up and plug in. It's my first time doing a top mounted drive on the aileron servos. A bit of a misnomer, as the wing is still cut open on the bottom for the servo bays, but the aileron horns are on the top of the wing and all but the last inch or so is within the wing. Much cleaner aerodynamically and much better looking than the traditional method of having the servo horn, and entire linkages exposed. At least I get the impression that's how you're doing it.
Feb 25, 2019, 10:10 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
I am working on just that now. I do have the luxury of some open space inside this fuselage, compared to a DLG.

Quick Reply
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Hinging Control Surfaces nodlehs Multi Task F3X 1 Oct 10, 2015 11:55 PM
Discussion Modifing the control surfaces to any of the Cox Micro Warbirds mike7130 Parkflyers 2 Jan 24, 2006 10:25 PM
Micro Whizz odyssey Dodgie Parkflyers 4 Sep 25, 2004 05:19 PM
Micro ECL Kwok_Yu Control Line 3 Sep 16, 2004 05:03 PM