Originally Posted by Fidy$Trainer

The ones I have are 1104 7500kv 1-2s motrs that weigh 5.7g x4 =22.8g vs 1103 amaxinno 3.8g =15.2 net difference of 7.6g. I can make up half that difference by shorting the XT30 wire leads which are very long. I'm going to try it and see. This is not a flying brick lol.

I have the 1103 11k kv and flying it with 2s is more than enough speed I can handle with that being said, the motors I have are on sale at Banggood.com for $27.99 ×4 Skystar brand.

Originally Posted by QuadifyRC.com

Seriously though the mounting pattern I like the look of is the lil' floaters which is the hypotenuse of m2 x 9mm with just 2 mounting screws on proper m2 harware

Tiny bit uncomfortable with the Floater mounts.

1. You know the motor wires need to exit between two screws and run straight down the arm.
2. 2 screws might be a little dodgy.
3. 3 points define a plane. (I know, I can’t help it.)
4. 4 screws is probably overkill for these little guys.
5. Most of us are already overflowing with M2 hardware.

Most of those appear point to a 3-hole M2 mount pattern.

Arranging the mount with 2 holes closer in and 1 out (because #1), my impression is the outer screw is the one that does the lion’s share of the work. So stick a steel screw there.

The other two screws are more like “busy work” than “real work”... so you might get away with aluminum screws or possibly even nylon for them since, again, there are two of them.

The last thing is to run down the densities:

Nylon - 1.15 g/cm3
Aluminum - 2.7 g/cm3
Steel - 8 g/cm3

If you back down to nylon or aluminum on the two inner screws, you still come out ahead against a single inner steel screw.

This was a painful choice since I committed this idea to carbon (not something you can “fix by huffing glue and counting annual rings” if you get it wrong). But the Amax 1103s seem to be really good motors for 2s so that made it more bearable.

A few pics

It will probably be another couple of weeks till I get the vtx and smaller motors so I did the unthinkable. I built it with parts I had laying around. Bold clash vtx and camera, 1106 6000kv motors. Will maden tomorrow

Originally Posted by GoatZilla

I think you have an error in the props.

You're looking at 45.82g at that point, and then:

You're going to lose probably another 2g in screws/spacers/standoffs outside of the center frame.
And then probably another 3-4g for the XT30 + excessive wire + possible capacitor + retention mechanism.
Also left out battery mounting mechanisms. Gonna guess 2g for that too.

My guess is you will tank in at >53g dry.

It will be interesting to see if your camera actually fits that camera mount.

44g dry with 1106's . 74g with gnb 4502s. Didn't use the runcam nano2 though it's a bit heavier than the naked aio camera in there now. I don't suspect it will fly all that fast with a 2s. That motor performs best with a GF3025 two blade on 3s and draws about 12a. Its not an ideal combo will probably fly pretty heavy and a bit twichy.

I could also still loose a few grams with smaller post screws, shorten battery leads, and remove the connectors. Need to see if I have to add a capacitor when I do the madien.

Originally Posted by Fidy$Trainer

44g dry with 1106's . 74g with gnb 4502s. Didn't use the runcam nano2 though it's a bit heavier than the naked aio camera in there now. I don't suspect it will fly all that fast with a 2s. That motor performs best with a GF3025 two blade on 3s and draws about 12a. Its not an ideal combo will probably fly pretty heavy and a bit twichy.

I could also still loose a few grams with smaller post screws, shorten battery leads, and remove the connectors. Need to see if I have to add a capacitor when I do the madien.

Scale seems to show 46g, but that's still pretty good with 1106s. You saved significant weight by using that AIO + mount (and not using additional mounting hardware).

Might have some issues using that USB port. I guess you did that to pocket the DSM RX inside?

I have tried several motors and batteries at 2inch, best results I had with rcx5000kv V2 motors, at tattu 4s 450mah. I have a good speed flight times of +5minutes and no battery sag.
It is also strong in crashes, but it does not feel very stong magnets etc, it is probably a bit of weak motor, but work very well//efficient on light builds.

Most of the more powerfull modern motors I tried such as sunny sky 1106 6500kv or Sunnysky 1104 5500Kv they sag the battery a lot, even at hovering low throttle the amps are much higher.... (both these motors I had to fly at GNB 550 3S, which weight excactely same as tattu 450mah 4s)

Originally Posted by GoatZilla

Scale seems to show 46g, but that's still pretty good with 1106s. You saved significant weight by using that AIO + mount (and not using additional mounting hardware).

Might have some issues using that USB port. I guess you did that to pocket the DSM RX inside?

Im a dum dum I had the stack inverted with USB facing up like it should have been but the motor leads were not long enough so I resoldered the leads with USB facing down. Then I realized I should have just changed the resources of the motors in BF . Now it's just a PITA to hook up the USB. The leads on the Rx are long enough so I could stick that anywhere. Putting it on the bottom seems to convenient and out of the way.

Once I fly it, I will determine if and how much jello there is and if it needs the 4th mounting screw. I will probably swap the board again though.

Purchased a new replacement board for a Sailfly from Happymodel (Crazybee F4 Pro V2.1) to use in a new Toothpick build (Kabab frame).

Question...anyone know if these boards come remapped for installation with USB up ala the Sailfly?

If so, what do I need to do in BF to be able to mount the board so that the USB is down?

Thanks,
Don

Remap the motor resources

Tutorial: Betaflight Motor Resource Remap (6 min 7 sec)

Originally Posted by GoatZilla

Tiny bit uncomfortable with the Floater mounts.

1. You know the motor wires need to exit between two screws and run straight down the arm.
2. 2 screws might be a little dodgy.
3. 3 points define a plane. (I know, I can’t help it.)
4. 4 screws is probably overkill for these little guys.
5. Most of us are already overflowing with M2 hardware.

Most of those appear point to a 3-hole M2 mount pattern.

Arranging the mount with 2 holes closer in and 1 out (because #1), my impression is the outer screw is the one that does the lion’s share of the work. So stick a steel screw there.

The other two screws are more like “busy work” than “real work”... so you might get away with aluminum screws or possibly even nylon for them since, again, there are two of them.

The last thing is to run down the densities:

Nylon - 1.15 g/cm3
Aluminum - 2.7 g/cm3
Steel - 8 g/cm3

If you back down to nylon or aluminum on the two inner screws, you still come out ahead against a single inner steel screw.

This was a painful choice since I committed this idea to carbon (not something you can “fix by huffing glue and counting annual rings” if you get it wrong). But the Amax 1103s seem to be really good motors for 2s so that made it more bearable.

Yep, well stated.

It's nice to have a standard but if the standard is not suitable it's good to see companies trying different options. None of them are going to do the basic research on what makes a good motor mount from a frame strength perspective on a cheap little motor sold in a niche market of a niche market. We're the test subjects and the researchers all in one but that's always been the case with RC. Then again I like that part about it too.

Here is the final build. Comming in at a whopping 48g. With 1106 motors. I'd say it came out much cleaner than I had hoped.

I have to say. I'll have to start over though. Unfortunately during a hover test the board caught on fire and fried. Not sure if I caused the short or if it's some sort of defect. The battery leads got so hot they literally unsoldered themselves mid flight. What's wierd is had no issues on the bench with the battery plugged in. Oh well will shoot again with a new board.

I use a XM+ receiver on my first toothpick. For the second one I think of a lighter receiver. Can you point me in a direction which one I should choose? Do they have enough range to be not the limiting factor for a 25mW VTX. AC9000, XM, RX2A... ?

I have a Nirvana with Frsky module, so I can choose between Frsky and Flysky receivers.

Originally Posted by donsinger1

Purchased a new replacement board for a Sailfly from Happymodel (Crazybee F4 Pro V2.1) to use in a new Toothpick build (Kabab frame).

Question...anyone know if these boards come remapped for installation with USB up ala the Sailfly?

If so, what do I need to do in BF to be able to mount the board so that the USB is down?

Thanks,
Don

The FC will come with the correct orientation, so you will not need to remap your motors if you use the board USB down.

FYI: IF the Crazybee F4 board IS LIKE the GEPRC 12A 1.1 F4 AIO board and your using an "original" kabab Toothpick frame YOU will not have access to the USB port if it's facing down. If it's a different orientation then I dont know. I would strongly suggest that when you build yours to have the USB facing in a direction where you can easily plug into it.

With the GEPRC 12A AIO FC I had to flip the board with the USB port facing UP to have access to it. Remapping the motors is pretty painless in BF. The video above explains how.

The video does on motor remapping has captions but it's spoken in Italian. Another good resource for mapping motors and it's the guide I used is https://oscarliang.com/betaflight-resource-remapping/ pretty self explanatory.