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Mar 29, 2019, 07:46 AM
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I've been using neo-magnets for some time and they work quite well. On my Sig Kougar they hold even at speed. In fact removing the hatch can be a bit of a pain sometimes......I used neos on both the hatch and fuse. Enough pull to actually crab the hatch from your hand . LOL but it isn't going anywhere.
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Mar 29, 2019, 10:41 AM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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Jollyroger,

I love neo magnets. If you look at the second photo in post #3 of this thread you will see that originally I used snap press stud fasteners cyanoed on. Nowhere near as good as neo magnets.

I am even using neodymium magnets to hold the wings on the Rotor pitcheron slopers I am building.

Kenneth
Mar 30, 2019, 04:26 PM
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airhog4427's Avatar

Cloud Dancer


Kenneth,

I've been following your posts with interest. I also have a Cloud Dancer 40 built from an Ace kit, but only got as far as up to covering the fuselage. I didn't like how it came out so I got discouraged and gave up. The plane was intended to be glow powered by an OS40. But, now I'm into electrics and am encouraged by you removing/repairing & recovering the airframe and converting it to electric power.

Could I ask you to please give some more detail on the modifications for the hatch you built into the top of the fuselage?

Thanks for the motivation to finish my Cloud Dancer and I look forward to continue reading your posts as your project continues.

Ray
Mar 30, 2019, 10:10 PM
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Be ready to add weight to the nose of the plane. All Ace kits require more weight to balance than normal. They were designed for 4 strokes.
Mar 31, 2019, 12:52 PM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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More Magnet Mayhem!


Encouraged by my success with the battery hatch I proceeded to use magnets to fix the cowl and the chin hatch which had previously been poorly attached using snap press stud fasteners.

The cowl magnets fit snugly into the corners of the cowl preventing any slipping or twisting. I didnít photograph the actual in-situ installation process because I donít want to be responsible again for putting anyone into a boredom induced coma, but if you are suffering from insomnia I can describe the process on request.
Last edited by Kenneth Paine; Apr 01, 2019 at 12:51 AM.
Mar 31, 2019, 12:53 PM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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Flaperons


I am on a quest for weight saving but decided to forego that extra ounce for the benefit of having flaperons on a power model for the first time.

I am looking forward to some square loops and floaty landings, something not possible in the modelís previous incarnation with 24 nicads.

The installation is not pretty but is slop free and free moving.
Last edited by Kenneth Paine; Apr 01, 2019 at 12:52 AM.
Mar 31, 2019, 03:44 PM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airhog4427
I've been following your posts with interest...
Thanks for the motivation to finish my Cloud Dancer...
Ray, I am glad to learn that at least someone is getting something out of this

Quote:
Originally Posted by airhog4427
Could I ask you to please give some more detail on the modifications for the hatch you built into the top of the fuselage?
The photographs in post #30 are from a 24 megapixel camera and therefore quite detailed when zoomed into, despite RCGroups resizing them to 5000 pixels across upon uploading (reducing sharpness in the process ) so it pays to zoom in. The third photo in post #35 may also be of help.

To get 1:1 resolution, click the thumbnail once to get into Media Viewer mode, then click the photo to open it up in a new tab and in the new tab click the photo again to zoom in to 1:1.


Back to the point:

Decide how long you want your hatch and where it starts. Make sure the back end doesn't end up under the canopy

I made my front and back vertical cuts first using a Japanese pull saw.

I made my horizontal cuts down the middle of the balsa stringer glued on to of the top of the ply fuselage side. I stuck pins into the balsa stringer front and back 4 mm above the glue line (spot the pin hole between the firewall and the hatch in the third photo of post #35). I pushed a steel ruler up against the pins and taped it firmly in place. Then I ran the Exacto knife along the edge of the ruler making light passes until I cut through the balsa.

When the hatch was free I capped the fuselage opening with with 1/64" ply as per the photographs in post #30.

I added balsa reinforcements underneath the hatch to prevent it from splaying or cracking during sanding; I then capped one end with 1/64" ply and sanded the other end so that it would fit in the fuselage opening when capped with 1/64" ply at both ends (including provision for covering thickness - two layers at each end).

When the hatch is the right length and capped both ends it is time to sand its base so that it does not sit proud of the fuselage. Remember, I capped the fuselage opening with with 1/64" ply and I also capped the hatch bottom with 1/64" ply, so without trimming its bottom, the hatch would sit 1/32" proud of the fuselage deck.


To sand the base of the hatch I fixed a sheet of 200 grit sandpaper to the bench with double sided tape and sanded the bottom of the hatch with regular checks until it was the right depth. Then I capped it with 1/64" ply. Phew!

Any questions?

K
Last edited by Kenneth Paine; Apr 01, 2019 at 12:57 AM. Reason: Spelling
Mar 31, 2019, 03:45 PM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jollyroger
Be ready to add weight to the nose of the plane. All Ace kits require more weight to balance than normal. They were designed for 4 strokes.
Well, originally it needed tail weight… I will state in due course how much weight is needed and where.

K
Apr 01, 2019, 04:05 PM
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airhog4427's Avatar

Cloud Dancer Hatch


Kenneth,

Thank you very much for the detail on the hatch. I'll try it.

By the way, you do beautiful work. Keep the photos coming.

Ray
Apr 02, 2019, 03:06 AM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by airhog4427
Thank you very much for the detail on the hatch. I'll try it.
You are very welcome. I am glad to be of some help to someone.


Quote:
Originally Posted by airhog4427
By the way, you do beautiful work. Keep the photos coming.
Thank you for your kind words.

Kenneth
Apr 28, 2019, 04:18 PM
Lets break some props :D
joseico90's Avatar
Looking good my dear friend. Brings back memories :-)
Apr 29, 2019, 01:20 AM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joseico90
Looking good my dear friend. Brings back memories :-)
Thank you Josť.

For the rest of you following this thread, Josť is the author of the video in post #1 and the first photograph in post #2.
Jun 15, 2019, 12:21 PM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
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Sheís Done!


Well, here she is bar the programming. Covered in Hobby King orange and mid-blue film. Text and “splodge” cut by hand. Never again… until the next time.

A surprising 4lbs 12oz or 2,150 grams all up with a 4S 3,330 Mah pack. I can’t wait to see her perform three pounds lighter than in her original incarnation.

Quick finger tip balance suggests that she is a tad nose heavy if not spot on. What is not to like?!

I recycled as much as I could:
  • Control horns
  • Scuffed spinner
  • Wheels

The only new items are the radio gear, power train and tail wheel.
Last edited by Kenneth Paine; Jun 15, 2019 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Added detail
Jun 15, 2019, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Hi Kenneth,

That's quite a drop in weight.

I ran the numbers thru ecalc: your wing loading dropped from 28.6 oz/sq.ft. to 17.5 and your stall speed dropped from 28mph to 22. With an apc 12x8, thrust is 79.8oz and with 13x6, thrust is 91.3oz. (motor temp. still only 65degrees F with the latter prop.

As an additional comparison the original RCM build article gave the auw - with .40 glow engine - at 72 ounces. The drive weight of your electrics is given by ecalc at 26.7 ounces. I think RCM gave the overall weight of its glow models without fuel so I expect your electric conversion matches the dry weight of the glow engine model.

Enjoyable and informative thread.

Congrats,

Michael in Ontario, Canada
Jun 18, 2019, 12:44 PM
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Kenneth Paine's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Michael,

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2michaely
That's quite a drop in weight.
It is! 38%! I was aiming for 5lbs so I am really pleased

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2michaely
I ran the numbers thru ecalc: your wing loading dropped from 28.6 oz/sq.ft. to 17.5 and your stall speed dropped from 28mph to 22. With an apc 12x8, thrust is 79.8oz and with 13x6, thrust is 91.3oz. (motor temp. still only 65degrees F with the latter prop.
The model has a 12x8 on it at the moment; I'll see how many amps that pulls. I have a 12x10 on standby should the magic 700 watts not be reached. I would like a 13" prop but the tips would be dangerously close to the ground and the model would get even more minced grass on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2michaely
Enjoyable and informative thread.

Congrats,
Thank you very much. I am glad that someone found it useful.


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