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Old Jan 17, 2005, 12:23 AM
Yogi is offline
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is there a convention to put the male bullet connector on the positive or negative battery terminal? When I went to Denver last year, all the team guys had theirs the opposite of mine. It seemed easier to solder the male connector to the positive battery button, and the neg femal connector to the negative battery end. Does it matter, and is one way better than another?

~~fred
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Old Jan 17, 2005, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yogi
is there a convention to put the male bullet connector on the positive or negative battery terminal? When I went to Denver last year, all the team guys had theirs the opposite of mine. It seemed easier to solder the male connector to the positive battery button, and the neg femal connector to the negative battery end. Does it matter, and is one way better than another?

~~fred
The only reason to do do it one way or the other is if you want to be compatable with someone else so you can share battery packs and charging leads. Otherwise it makes no difference.

Chuck
Old Jan 17, 2005, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcelectfly
The only reason to do do it one way or the other is if you want to be compatable with someone else so you can share battery packs and charging leads. Otherwise it makes no difference.

Chuck
For the battery, shouldn't the (-) be the male and the (+) be the female that is covered in heatshink? This appears safer to me knowing the whole case of the pack is (-).
Last edited by down_shift; Jan 17, 2005 at 10:07 AM.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 09:58 AM
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I'm getting ready to switch all of my battery packs over to bullet connectors. I was wondering the same thing. I do like your suggestion DS, makes great sence to me as the barrel side should get the shrink wrap.

BTW, thanks for bringing this up Yogi.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 12:29 PM
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Actually, 4 of us in Denver run with female leads (2) on the batteries. This makes it easiest because there is no gold exposed for a possible short. Then the esc's have 2 males.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift
For the battery, shouldn't the (-) be the male and the (+) be the female that is covered in heatshink?
Heatshrink??? It will melt or split, I promise you! You can wrap the tubes (female) in Kapton in some applications, but no heatshrink in F5B/D.

-David
Old Jan 17, 2005, 02:51 PM
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Double wall heatshrink has held up very well.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidfee
Heatshrink??? It will melt or split, I promise you! You can wrap the tubes (female) in Kapton in some applications, but no heatshrink in F5B/D.

-David
David - my kapton wrapped GP3300 packs are routinely over 205 degrees F, but the heat shrink covered 5.5mm connectors are fine. Okay to call us what we are out here on the east........ bush league.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 06:48 PM
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You guys must have better heatshrink than me. I tried it once... it only lasted a couple flights.

-David
Old Jan 17, 2005, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidfee
You guys must have better heatshrink than me.....
.......or lower resistance connectors.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 07:01 PM
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David,

Try some temperature-sensitive tape. Kitfoxdrvr was nice enough to hook me up with some. It works great and the stickers are ~ 1/8" by 1/4". I'll try a few on the connectors.
Old Jan 17, 2005, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argarre
Actually, 4 of us in Denver run with female leads (2) on the batteries. This makes it easiest because there is no gold exposed for a possible short. Then the esc's have 2 males.
You just have to make sure you have the polarity correct when you plug them in so you will not short the esc correct?
Old Jan 18, 2005, 01:55 AM
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David,

PM me your address and I will send you a couple of the strips Russ mentioned. They work great for indicating whether or not you exceed a given temperature at any time, at a minimal weight (a piece of paper!).


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