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Jan 16, 2020, 04:55 PM
Registered User
I saw a HH video demo of the ncpx years ago. They recommended putting the thread locker on a toothpick and wetting the inside of the nut only.
When you put the glue on the spindle it locks to the bearing. Good luck next time.

Also don't bother to replace a bent spindle without at least trying to straighten it in situ. Merely remove one blade and use one tool to locate the bend and hold the spindle while you gently straighten the little 1mm piece of metal by hand. Go easy. Don't break a grip. I haven't bothered to change a F. S. in years.
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Jan 16, 2020, 05:29 PM
Always trying to learn
mejmea's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveapplemotors
I saw a HH video demo of the ncpx years ago. They recommended putting the thread locker on a toothpick and wetting the inside of the nut only.
When you put the glue on the spindle it locks to the bearing. Good luck next time.

Also don't bother to replace a bent spindle without at least trying to straighten it in situ. Merely remove one blade and use one tool to locate the bend and hold the spindle while you gently straighten the little 1mm piece of metal by hand. Go easy. Don't break a grip. I haven't bothered to change a F. S. in years.
Good point about the Loctite. The alternative is to use the blue loctite (chap)stick form as you can put it on the male threads and it won't get in the bearings. It's more expensive but I find it easier to use for all of my needs. I haven't personally had much luck straightening the feathering shafts in place but do find that chucking them in a small drill and tightening the chuck gets them pretty straight after an iteration or two.

One additional thought relative to checking straightness is to remove 1 blade and tighten the other grip so that its blade stays sticking out radially. Then put the feathering shaft tool in the empty grip and rotate the feathering shaft. Any bend is amplified and can be observed by the watching the tip of the far blade. You do have to be careful not to move the head around as you are turning the tool or you get a false impression.

I'm curious about you not having changed a feathering shaft for years. I noticed recently that my blade tracking was noticeably off when it had been fine previously. There were, of course, a few crashes in between those two observations but I checked the feathering shaft and it wasn't bent. I changed the dampeners and it got better so I was thinking I wore out the originals after about 200 or flights and "unintentional landings". If you having changed your spindle in years though, does that imply you haven't changed your dampeners either? It seems as though that was my problem but perhaps there was something else that I inadvertently fixed in the disassembly/reassembly process....
Jan 16, 2020, 07:17 PM
Billy
So why does the Stock Brushless mod from the CPX (or any brushless mod it seems) not work in AS3X mode?

I'm considering buying an S2 board for my CPX so I can effectively get it working, but I would prefer the ability to use AS3X and Agility modes, and not just Agility mode.
Is it just the 100% head speed that's an issue, and the AS3X actually works (stability mode/IU1 mode), or is it glitching out completely and not allowing either Blue modes to work?
Jan 16, 2020, 07:21 PM
VE7FM
TheSteve's Avatar
I believe there are two issues - one is a signal issue. If you added a small resistor this issue would likely be solved. The higher head speed may also mess with the stability though, especially on take off.
Jan 17, 2020, 10:08 PM
Billy
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSteve
I believe there are two issues - one is a signal issue. If you added a small resistor this issue would likely be solved. The higher head speed may also mess with the stability though, especially on take off.
Thanks for that, I hadn't seen a signal issue anywhere that I remember so I'll look into that one.
Jan 17, 2020, 11:45 PM
VE7FM
TheSteve's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01
Thanks for that, I hadn't seen a signal issue anywhere that I remember so I'll look into that one.
I don't think anyone has 100% confirmed the issue however when adding my own brushless conversion I can say for certain the brushless ESC could not be driven properly from the motor output unless a resistor was added. For me it was easier to connect the brushless ESC to a point where a resistor was not required, but that did involve some fine soldering.
Jan 20, 2020, 02:41 AM
Registered User
Those spindle parts are nano size...I need some tweezers
Jan 21, 2020, 02:28 AM
The Other Side of Your Screen
SilverSport's Avatar
Don't forget the magnifying lenses.
Jan 26, 2020, 11:43 AM
Registered User
keithy4129's Avatar
So, I picked up some Hyperion G8 220 HV batteries. I was skeptical on how much the extra voltage would help but I will never go back now, every little bit helps with these ultra micros.
Jan 26, 2020, 11:39 PM
Registered User
I thought I would post some notes from my setup of a Nano S2 on my FrSky X-Lite with a multiprotocol module in case it helps someone in the future.

My MPM has the AETR firmware flashed to it, so the model needs to be setup as AETR and then it will translate it to TAER for DSMX automatically. I set the model to use the External MULTI module with DSMX protocol and 22ms mode.

Channel mapping:
• Aileron: Reverse
• Elevator: Normal
• Throttle: Normal
• Rudder: Reverse
• Ch5-Gyro: Normal
• Ch6-Collective: Normal

**** VERY IMPORTANT:
• Enable “Max Throw = 1” in the External Module settings!!! Otherwise your throttle hold will not work correctly!!!
• Throttle hold needs to be below 965us to work properly, otherwise 3D mode will engage and override the throttle hold. Set PPM center on Ch3 to 1475 to ensure 3D mode won’t activate the motor!! This gives 963us output instead of standard 988us output at minimum throttle/throttle hold.
• With Max Throw=1 the collective, yaw, roll, and pitch changes are very sensitive and probably overkill. Set the channel weights to 84% to get them back to normal DSM ranges. Only the throttle channel seems to need to be extended, although I'm not sure if I've actually found the proper "Rescue/Bailout" mode on the gyro channel, so it may need a higher or lower pulse width as well.
• The throttle channel seems to pretty much be ignored in 3D mode. If throttle is anywhere above 965us it seems to just give you max power.

Gyro setup:
• Set bailout switch/button you want to override Channel 5 to 1900us. Rescue mode is blue+red LED and seems to work anywhere in the range of 1755-2012us.
• Set a switch to change channel 5 between 3D mode on the low end below 1245us (red) and stabilized mode on the mid range of channel from 1245-1755us(blue).
• I'm not sure if 1900us is actually the proper Rescue mode because the S2 loses quite a bit of altitude at first when inverted due to the time it takes to right itself to upright flight before climbing. That may be normal though. Maybe it's Stability Z mode also?

Set a battery timer for somewhere between 3:10 to 4:10, make the source = "THs". Then set the "T-Source" = Ch3 a few lines past the last timer in the list. To reset the timer long press on stick to get reset menu, select then select it and reset Timer 1. You can also create a persistent manual-reset count-up timer for hours on heli/main motor.

If your throttle and collective channels seem to be switched then you need to rebind and hold the rudder in the opposite direction. On FrSky the rudder channel needs to first be reversed in the outputs in order for the “hold right rudder while binding for computer radios” to be correct. Doing this right might result in a flyway. It would probably be smart to remove the blades before binding and during initial setup and testing of the radio.

Flashing red light after flying a while means your battery is dead and it’s going into low voltage cutoff. Don't make a habit of this. Use the timer.
Jan 27, 2020, 01:02 AM
The Other Side of Your Screen
SilverSport's Avatar
Thanks.

I am trying not hard enough to learn OpenTX and will have to give it a try on one of my nano's on the Jumper T16 to see how it works. Your notes should help.
Jan 27, 2020, 08:37 AM
Registered User
keithy4129's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by eqtrian
I thought I would post some notes from my setup of a Nano S2 on my FrSky X-Lite with a multiprotocol module in case it helps someone in the future.

My MPM has the AETR firmware flashed to it, so the model needs to be setup as AETR and then it will translate it to TAER for DSMX automatically. I set the model to use the External MULTI module with DSMX protocol and 22ms mode.

Channel mapping:
• Aileron: Reverse
• Elevator: Normal
• Throttle: Normal
• Rudder: Reverse
• Ch5-Gyro: Normal
• Ch6-Collective: Normal

**** VERY IMPORTANT:
• Enable “Max Throw = 1” in the External Module settings!!! Otherwise your throttle hold will not work correctly!!!
• Throttle hold needs to be below 965us to work properly, otherwise 3D mode will engage and override the throttle hold. Set PPM center on Ch3 to 1475 to ensure 3D mode won’t activate the motor!! This gives 963us output instead of standard 988us output at minimum throttle/throttle hold.
• With Max Throw=1 the collective, yaw, roll, and pitch changes are very sensitive and probably overkill. Set the channel weights to 84% to get them back to normal DSM ranges. Only the throttle channel seems to need to be extended, although I'm not sure if I've actually found the proper "Rescue/Bailout" mode on the gyro channel, so it may need a higher or lower pulse width as well.
• The throttle channel seems to pretty much be ignored in 3D mode. If throttle is anywhere above 965us it seems to just give you max power.

Gyro setup:
• Set bailout switch/button you want to override Channel 5 to 1900us. Rescue mode is blue+red LED and seems to work anywhere in the range of 1755-2012us.
• Set a switch to change channel 5 between 3D mode on the low end below 1245us (red) and stabilized mode on the mid range of channel from 1245-1755us(blue).
• I'm not sure if 1900us is actually the proper Rescue mode because the S2 loses quite a bit of altitude at first when inverted due to the time it takes to right itself to upright flight before climbing. That may be normal though. Maybe it's Stability Z mode also?

Set a battery timer for somewhere between 3:10 to 4:10, make the source = "THs". Then set the "T-Source" = Ch3 a few lines past the last timer in the list. To reset the timer long press on stick to get reset menu, select then select it and reset Timer 1. You can also create a persistent manual-reset count-up timer for hours on heli/main motor.

If your throttle and collective channels seem to be switched then you need to rebind and hold the rudder in the opposite direction. On FrSky the rudder channel needs to first be reversed in the outputs in order for the “hold right rudder while binding for computer radios” to be correct. Doing this right might result in a flyway. It would probably be smart to remove the blades before binding and during initial setup and testing of the radio.

Flashing red light after flying a while means your battery is dead and it’s going into low voltage cutoff. Don't make a habit of this. Use the timer.
Thanks for this, I have a jumper coming soon and this will help me out. I’m looking forward to learning openTx .
Jan 27, 2020, 09:24 AM
Registered User
I have a working file on my Jumper T16 with OpenTX, I will post it when I get home, Maybe save someone all the headaches I went through lol.
Jan 27, 2020, 11:04 AM
The Other Side of Your Screen
SilverSport's Avatar
My biggest headache in the learning process has been finding teaching that starts at the level my Transmitter is already at .... I don't need to know how to get upgraded from the 1.x to 2.x version of OpenTX as most of the OpenTXU training has. Then everything looks different between the implementation on the small mono screen and the Jumper's large color screen.

Most of the Jumper T16 info is also for those with the external module JumperTX equipped transmitters, mine was purchased at the end of November and is one of the first production of T16 Pro Hall's that came with OpenTX already installed.

I will thank you and hope to be able to do the same by the end of the year ..... sure hope the T16 is still in the mainstream then.
Jan 27, 2020, 03:58 PM
Registered User
I think the t-16 is going to be the new 9x... that tx had a very ong (more than 10 years) life span. I still have a 9x with 9xtreme board, that so far, works just fine as a backup.


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