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Feb 20, 2019, 11:04 PM
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unleaded218's Avatar
It is a bit hard to show the other bubbles and loose foil in pictures, but I can iron them out as I have done lots of covering but in the past have found that they always seem to return. I think it is a result of transport of models to Australia in hot containers from China.
Oh also got the white Spinner hmmmm
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Feb 21, 2019, 06:32 AM
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Thread OP
Heres a tip that I use to get bubbles out and they usually stay gone. Prick each bubble with a small pin and then iron it down. That allows the trapped air to escape and they usually dont return. The gap between the hatch and wing isnt terrible at all. Every bipe I have seen that has the top wing mounted like that always has a gap there. I was told wing fences were an optional purchase and they were not in my kit either but I did receive a gold spinner.
Feb 22, 2019, 02:49 AM
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unleaded218's Avatar
Hi Rich yes know most of the tricks with covering been doing it since the 80s worst are the wrinkles that have already been ironed , I have today been installing the servo in top wing as per normal I hooked up an extension to the servo lead as it was only just long enough to reach the exit hole well an hour and a half later I have only managed to get the extension lead plug just out of the exit hole seems the pathway holes in the ribs is too small for the female plug on the extension lead , I had to leave it like that and add an other extension lead to hook up to the receiver leads , so when I did the other side I left off the extension lead till I got the servo lead to the exit hole and managed to connect the extension lead plug up Whew ,you said you haven't hook the servo up yet this may be a warning for you
Feb 22, 2019, 11:32 AM
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I got mine through by twisting the servo wire while pulling the string. They are some small holes to go through.
Feb 22, 2019, 12:08 PM
LSF 174
roslyn's Avatar
The servo lead pull can be eased by using a small piece of tape over the end of the plug. Wrap it around the end of the plug pulling the tape tight around the wire. This eliminates the square end of the plug allowing the extension to glide through those small hole in the ribs. Your extension will pull right thru. I just used masking tape.
Feb 24, 2019, 11:26 AM
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Thread OP
Had some time to work on the airplane this morning. Started by installing the control horn in the rudder. The rudder is flared at the trailing edge to help slow the airplane down in a down line and it will also soften the feel of the rudder around neutral.

The tail wheel bracket gets installed in the rudder next. You have to drill and cut the slot in the rudder for the wire. Be careful tightening the set screw in the wheel collars. They are soft and I stripped one.

I really wish the hardware was broken down into steps instead of just thrown all into one bag.

Hinge the rudder to the fuse and then flip it over and drill the two holes in the bottom to secure the tail wheel plate.

Attach a 36 inch extension to the rudder servo and install it with the output shaft facing the rear.
Feb 25, 2019, 03:46 AM
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unleaded218's Avatar
Yes I used the tape over the extension lead I even extend the tape so as to form a tapered cone ,don't know what caused it to jamb but it did and it's there to stay unfortunately
Due to not great flying weather I have made a lot of progress , I did have to take the motor off again and put some 1Mm washers behind the X mount as the spinner back plate was rubbing on the front of the cowl .
At this stage I have decided to use Y leads on the Ailerons as I like to run a separate battery for reciver, I will see what the throws etc are when I get to setting with the digital meter
Feb 25, 2019, 03:51 AM
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unleaded218's Avatar
I also taped the three extension that have to go through the tube in the fuse easy to do the three at once then do them one at a time
Feb 25, 2019, 11:45 AM
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Thread OP
Started off today with the rudder pushrod. I decided to use the hardware in the kit. I was wrong in an earlier post. The pushrods are steel threaded into a ball link and then an ez connector at the servo end.

The ball link was super tight to get started on the pushrod. I chamfered the opening in the link with a knife and was then able to get it threaded. Bolt it to the control horn and slide it into the ez connector. Remember to use medium CA on the nuts and blue threadlock on the bolt for the ez connector so nothing comes loose. Also don't overtighten as the hardware is soft.

I mounted the landing gear next with three bolts per side. The gear will sweep toward the back. The landing gear fairings got installed with red RTV and a potato chip bag clip will hold them until it cures
Feb 27, 2019, 02:02 PM
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Thread OP
I started with mounting the wheels and pants. The wheel slides on the axle and a wheel collar secures it. The threaded portion on the axle fits into a slot in the pant and a locknut secures the assembly to the gear leg. Once you align the pants the way you want them you drill a hole through the leg into the pant and secure with a wood screw.

I then bolted the motor box to the firewall. Three bolts go through the firewall into the motor box to hold it on.

I'm a little concerned because the right thrust looks extreme and it's also got up thrust in it but until it's flying I can't say for sure.

I'm on hold until I decide what I want to use for servos and a motor and get them ordered
Feb 27, 2019, 11:02 PM
LSF 174
roslyn's Avatar
For what it's worth I used Savox 0255 micro servos with lots of poop for the ailerons. For the elevators I used Spektrum 5030's and for the rudder a JR 8611. All servos required little to no adjustments for a perfect fit. A Hacker A 50 16S will provide the go controlled by a Castle Talon 90 esc.
Feb 28, 2019, 08:48 AM
Team Futaba
Neilbo4's Avatar
Looking good Rich! If you decide you want Futaba servos, shoot me an email - I can get you set up

Neil
Feb 28, 2019, 07:59 PM
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unleaded218's Avatar
Hi due to a couple of weather related no fly days I have finished off the prometheus, I fitted a set of CF under carriage as I have found in the past that the supplied one to be too soft so I won't be using the fairing, I set the control throws etc as per the suggested ones,
So with some really nice maiden weather it was committed to the wild blue yonder,
It took off dead straight away and only required a small amount of left aileron trim, but found it to be very reactive, so I flicked to low rate and it was better but still too touchy for aero so I landed and rest the settings, second flight was better but still not how I like it to be, so more reduced throws for third flight I settled on Elv travel 20% Ail travel 20% for normal flight this was increased to 30% on both for more aggressive menouvers and 40% with 100%rudder for the spin
I know these seem low but it was much more comfortable to fly, inverted pass tested the CG which just lrequired a very slight pressure on the elevator,
That said I have yet to do some up and down line test but it looked OK doing the Top hat
Rich I also questioned the angle on the mount but it was spot on alignment with the cowl and spinner again as I get more into the trimming I will do the thrust line tests but for now I am a happy chappy
Mar 06, 2019, 05:57 PM
Registered User

Inverted?


Hi all,

Iíve been flying my Prometheus through last year and can only echo what has been said already....it flys great but with one exception - mine needs a big push of down elevator when inverted to keep it level, and also sinks like a brick on landing if I donít keep the speed up....

Iíve got the CofG at the rear setting that seb recommends, and Iíve checked the incidences and wing and tail are 0-0-0.

Iíve partially overcome it with an elevator > flap mix but it seems from comments that more-or-less neutral upright/inverted is achievable?

Any suggestions welcome?

Thanks.
Mar 06, 2019, 07:40 PM
Registered User
Hi Martyflyer, "I've checked the incidences and wing and tail are 0-0-0"? This must be a truly remarkable design from Sebart. Are you saying the top and bottom wings have an incidence of zero and the stab is set a zero? Normally most pattern planes carry a wing incidence of +0.5 degrees (biplane wing incidence may differ relative to each other) and the stab set at zero degrees. One simple question, how did set your plane up to check the incidences? Did you level (0 degrees) the fuselage with the canopy removed and laying your level (preferably a digital level) on the canopy frame? To me, something is just not right and I would like to help you figure it out. Waiting for your reply.
Last edited by TN Walker; Mar 06, 2019 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Clarification


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