Iv been reading a lot an it seems this little X4r receiver might be on of the most popular.

Im about to buy a X8R Frsky receiver and although it is a bit large I think its basically the same thing.

Does anyone have a fav or know the most popular frsky receiver?

You should look at the new RX-series. These make the classic X-series mostly obsolete.

https://alofthobbies.com/radio/frsky...receivers.html

There are some special uses for some of the other RXs so it depends on your application.

I just bought an RX6R and it seems to be the ideal replacement for the X6R, which was previously the general purpose receiver with servo connectors. The RX6R promises 40% better range and is smaller and lighter.

I haven’t yet tested it as the weather remains too cold, but reports are very positive. I don’t expect to buy more X6R or X8R, the design of which is now six years old.

Originally Posted by pressalltheknobs

You should look at the new RX-series. These make the classic X-series mostly obsolete.

https://alofthobbies.com/radio/frsky...receivers.html

There are some special uses for some of the other RXs so it depends on your application.

I don't like the delicate connector those use for sbus. If they had one with sbus on a servo port I'd be all over it. The other problem is that to make a clean solution you really need to crimp your own connector onto the picoblade lead and while that's relatively simple for me because I have an official dupont terminal factory hand tool (HT-0095) it's a lot harder to do that on 28 AWG wire with the generic crimping pliers most folks have.

This is what it looks like in case you were wondering, you load the terminal into the holder stick the stripped wire in and crimp. No adjustments to crimp height are necessary because it has two dies for large to medium and medium to small gauge wire that are factory adjusted.









Next best thing that a hobbyist would be able to afford is the Hozan P-706, which does a very good job with 22-26 AWG wire. You need to crimp twice once with the round 1.8mm die on the insulation and again with the 1.4mm die on the conductor. It makes very clean, near factory quality crimps. You don't need to worry about over crimping with this tool you just fully close it on the terminal, it has just the right crimp height for 22-26 AWG wire. Wire pullout resistance is also roughly equal to the crimps from the HT-0095. It is however more tedious to use, my suggestion is that you lightly precrimp the insulation so that the wire can be slid inside the partially crimped barrel and line up the end of the insulation between the insulation and conductor crimp sections and then fully crimp it. Takes more time but it's basically foolproof this way.





If you line up the conductor brush end of the conductor crimp barrel with the face of the tool it even makes a bellmouth on the end where the conductor bundle enters the crimp barrel. You can find it on Amazon for around $45, usually you have to order it from Japan. It costs twice as much as a pair of Hansen crimpers but the results are much much better.

However it's still going to have problems with 28 AWG wire which is what you need to crimp the picoblade leads used on the RX4R.

I used to work at an aerospace lab and crimping was the standard, some electrical engineers were split between mechanical vs soldered. I do soldered my communication wires from my motor directly to the esc. I like the crimp setup some one just posted, most reliably methode, plus you could solder that too. I agree the three pin system isnt robust on the sbus (and no lock system), Ill just put some RTV around it on both ends or just solder to pins directly.


Yea I almost bought a R-XSR but then found a FX400R for 10 bucks less wich has amazing range apparently. Plan was for the FX400R to connect via sbus to an omnibus v2 f4 pro. I have three simultaneous builds going on right now which gave me extra parts to finish this Omega 1.8.

FrSky RX6R looks rad, and its got gold plate. Wow the RX8R has two built in receivers!
So the RX6R is 30 bucks, that seems the average, like the R-RSX which I didnt like.
Wow I really want to buy that RX6R, its perfect for my sailplane build.

Oh yea this is a new Frsky receiver it looks like,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FrSky-1...qt7GYbcQ%3D%3D

The FX400R is a compatible and is not made by FrSky. Might be ok but many of the compatibles do not have good range. The FX400R is not that cheap depending where you buy it from so I'm not sure I would bother with it personally.

The TFRSP is made by FrSky but it is compatible with FASST Futaba systems and cannot be used from a Taranis (at least not without a FASST module)

https://www.frsky-rc.com/product-cat...ers/tf-series/

Also the RX8R (PRO) does not have two receivers. Like all R series it has a redundancy function where you can use two receivers linked via SBUS to get extra active antennas. It is not quite true active diversity because there is latency in the SBUS. The PRO version of the RX8R is supposed to be "hardened" against spark ignition noise.

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

I don't like the delicate connector those use for sbus. If they had one with sbus on a servo port I'd be all over it.
...

Good to know but I think most people will just use the supplied pigtails. I suspect spares are available. Having made up PWM cables, that is pain enough to not do it whenever possible.

I do agree that I think FrSky may have made a mistake with the RXSR. Small is good but given it's only output, a PWM sized connection for power, ground and SBUS/FPORT would seem worth the cost of a bit larger size...even if it was only half holes on one edge to which you can solder a 3 pin header.

Originally Posted by spacecase

I agree the three pin system isnt robust on the sbus (and no lock system), Ill just put some RTV around it on both ends or just solder to pins directly.

That connector is a Molex picoblade, it actually does have a positive lock, there are two holes on the back of the PCB side shroud which lock with tabs on the wire side connector. For this reason you should never pull them out by the wires.

If you buy picoblade leads off ebay the wire color order will probably be different than what FrSky uses on their leads. Make SURE you have the positive and negative in the correct positions or you will destroy the receiver. Removing and moving the terminals around in the housing isn't hard you just need a loupe and a fine sewing needle to gently pry up the latch on the plastic housing and slide the terminal out.

Originally Posted by pressalltheknobs

I do agree that I think FrSky may have made a mistake with the RXSR. Small is good but given it is the only output,a PWM sized connection for power, ground and SBUS/FPORT would seem worth the cost of a bit larger size...even if it was only half holes on one edge to which you can solder a 3 pin header.

The X4R is a lot less delicate than the RX4R overall, I dropped an RX4R on a hard countertop and the "button" on the surface mount bind switch popped off. It's literally just a small piece of metal with a raised bit in the center held into the switch body by a piece of yellow kapton tape that covers the top of the switch assembly. I managed to find exact replacement SMD switches on Alibaba and soldering in a replacement isn't too hard though.

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

That connector is a Molex picoblade, it actually does have a positive lock, there are two holes on the back of the PCB side shroud which lock with tabs on the wire side connector. For this reason you should never pull them out by the wires.

If you buy picoblade leads off ebay the wire color order will probably be different than what FrSky uses on their leads. Make SURE you have the positive and negative in the correct positions or you will destroy the receiver. Removing and moving the terminals around in the housing isn't hard you just need a loupe and a fine sewing needle to gently pry up the latch on the plastic housing and slide the terminal out.

Whats this business with no diodes being put in circuits these days. Wow, my servo ends are not "keyd" I really need a better wire system. Non keys futaba style stinks.

All Frsky receivers seem kinda cheap, but that newer RX6R looks so nice with gold. It seems all the Frsky receivers in the classifieds go super fast.
So people seem to think the RX6R is worth it? Its seems Frsky being such a new company I should try the latest tech. If the RSSI and telemetry work well with sensors using smart port older systems could be good too, like the X4R.

FrSky a new company? I started using their products in 2010. How long does a company have to be around to qualify as established?

And non-polarized servo connectors have been used for.over 25 years! It’s not a problem unless, as explained in the post, you manage to both reverse the connector AND install it offset so the ground and positive pins are reversed. I’ve never managed to destroy a servo that way (I have other ways. )

Originally Posted by spacecase

Whats this business with no diodes being put in circuits these days. Wow, my servo ends are not "keyd" I really need a better wire system. Non keys futaba style stinks.

It usually doesn't really matter with 0.1 servo connectors because the positive is in the middle so all you end up doing it grounding the signal pin if you put it in backwards. I remember that the V1 iKon did have an issue where a backwards signal input could damage the receiver if the signal pin voltage was higher than 5v (it should not be but some (poorly designed imo) devices output the PWM signal at whatever the input voltage to the device is e.g. the Hobbywing brushless phase sensor. To be safe RC gear should always be able to handle an 8.4v PWM signal (I would say 10V max just to be safe). If not this should be specifically stated in the documentation, many helicopter FBL controllers cannot handle an RPM signal voltage higher than 3.3v (or sometimes 5v) for example because it's common to connect this port to an I/O port on the CPU with only a surface mount resistor between the signal input port and the pin on the CPU. They always warn you about this in the manual though.

All Frsky receivers seem kinda cheap, but that newer RX6R looks so nice with gold. It seems all the Frsky receivers in the classifieds go super fast.
So people seem to think the RX6R is worth it? Its seems Frsky being such a new company I should try the latest tech. If the RSSI and telemetry work well with sensors using smart port older systems could be good too, like the X4R.

The boardwork is actually quite good way better than some genuine Spektrum receivers I've seen that were pretty shoddy in regards to the soldering on the PCB. The packaging is kinda crap, I wish they'd bump the prices up a few bucks and start supplying more robust cases. Even the cases on the full size receivers like the X6R and X8R are thin walled and easily damaged. I'd pay a little more for better cases. As far as electronics are concerned though I have few complaints. The delicate nature of the RX4R is simply a consequence of it being so tiny.

The new ones look nice, yes the cardboard case is kinda cheesy. Do they spay them with sealant?
Yea maybe Frsky is going for Spektrums market, they too have a gps sensor with smart port.
But Im wondering how useful these are with just your transmitter and not a dedicated fpv system with osd. My radio does have voice so I can have specific warnings for rssi and battery.

"Back in Black" thats my slogan for plugging servo wires in. Back goes to the back or outside of the case, signal torard center. A shame the original use of the diode has gone forgotten.
Well once your wired up not much to connect/disconnect accept esc for programing.

Originally Posted by spacecase

The new ones look nice, yes the cardboard case is kinda cheesy. Do they spay them with sealant?

The board itself is covered with a conformal coating, the cardboard wrapper is just a cardboard wrapper. I wish they'd change it to a plastic wrapper like some other companies do because it'd be more durable for minimal cost increase. One thing you can do is get some transparent battery wrap (this is thin PVC shrink wrap) and cover the whole receiver wrapper and all from the plastic strip of the pin connector to about 5mm beyond the end of the board at the antennas. Shrink and then trim the PVC covering away from the picoblade socket with a hobby knife and poke a small hole in it over the bind switch with a sharp point soldering iron tip (don't go all the way down to the board). This type of shrink wrap shrinks down to a hard blister pack like materiel and is softer and more conformal while heated and requires lower heat that the more common polyolefin shrink tubing (the stuff we use on wires and connectors).

The XSR-M looks interesting, small but not so small that it's too delicate.

https://www.frsky-rc.com/product/xsr-m/

Note that the bind switch is the larger type used on the X4R and X6R etc. It also has mounding holes for stacking it over a flight controller. Because of that it wouldn't be to hard to design a 3D printed case for it and use it as a normal receiver.

On my big helicopters I use either a X4R or X6R. If you look inside an X6R it has a lot more "stuff" inside it than an X4R and is split across two stacked boards.

On my TSA 700E I have the X6R at the back on top of the boom mount with the antenna holder mounted on the boom.