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Feb 21, 2019, 12:03 AM
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warhead_71's Avatar
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Thanks for the offer on rivets Chad. For this plane I'm going to stick with the glue rivets... this plane just isn't scale enough to be worth doing it the right way If this were a fully fiberglassed model I'd cover it with FliteMetal and then I'd definitely do the rub-on rivets.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 21, 2019 at 10:44 AM.
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Feb 21, 2019, 12:07 AM
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warhead_71's Avatar
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Getting the retracts adjusted to size and dry-fitted into the wing. You can see they have a smaller base that the typical .60-size mechanical retracts... I'll have to modify the mounting blocks. But the wheels fit nicely. I'll try to fit some strut covers as well.
Last edited by warhead_71; Mar 06, 2019 at 04:49 PM.
Feb 21, 2019, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Challenged
If you want to, you can dull the mirror-like covering with Scotchbrite green scouring pads rubbing in vertical and horizontal directons.
Yes I've seen this before and it's a nice effect. #0000 steel wool also works.. My concern is that the plane is not fully sheeted. Openings in the empennage and between the capped wing ribs might show the structure beneath it once I start rubbing the chrome.
Feb 21, 2019, 01:46 PM
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As I contemplate adding flaps I'm thinking about how many servos I'll be running and how many channels I'll need. I fly with my trusty 1st Gen Spektrum DX7 DSM2 radio... so I could go up to 7channels if needed.

I already have several spare 6-channel Orange-RXs in my stash. I would have to put my separate aileron servos on a "Y" to run retracts and flaps plus R-E-A-T. Both servos would have to have the same orientation (not mirror-image) to work correctly on a "Y"... but I can easily modify the servo hatches.

Or I could get one of those knock-off RedCon 7-ch DSM2 RXs. $8 and they are bulletproof. I prefer the OrangeRx and RedConRXs to many of the genuine SpektrumRXs... I've had some tragic brown-out incidences using their RXs that were not as backwards-compatible as they claimed. Then I could mount the aileron servos normally and mix them with some differential. Or even mix them with flaps to "crow" the ailerons up a bit to reduce tip-stalling.
Feb 21, 2019, 10:58 PM
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I just finished assembly of a foamie Tower Hobbies P-51 Miss America, per instruction book, using my Aurora 9 and Optima 6 receiver i.e. 2 aileron servos on a Y cable, 2 flap servos on a Y cable, 2 electric retracts on a Y cable, one servo for elevator, and one servo for rudder. Not sure differential ailerons are of benefit on most low-wing designs, and they may have negative effects for inverted flight. It may be beneficial to angle both ailerons upward a little to increase lateral stability ( similar to tip washout) Use of aileron/rudder mix that can be switched on/off may help . For what it is worth , I have read that using "crow", on non-sailplane models, decreases effectiveness of ailerons .
Last edited by E-Challenged; Feb 21, 2019 at 11:11 PM.
Feb 22, 2019, 10:37 AM
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Yeah I don't think aileron differential would be necessary, but being able to fine-tune the servos individually would be nice for trimming the plane. But I can do that manually with threaded linkages at one end. Electric retracts already come with a Y and as far as I know they are not really adjustable... they go until they hit their stops. For flaps I planned to put it all on a single servo that drives a long "flap crank". It will just be a section of CF arrowshaft that runs transversely through the wing-center... control arms at either end, and one in the middle to drive them all. Similar to this:
Oct 19, 2019, 11:16 AM
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Great build log loving the detail in the cockpit, will follow your lead! I have lots of photos of the Harvard that I am modelling. So what happened, last update in Feb...I was reading along enjoying the blog then nothing...its like missing a whole season of GOT (not that I watched it) - just saying.
Oct 21, 2019, 11:08 AM
Local Cropduster
Quote:
Originally Posted by onewonders
Great build log loving the detail in the cockpit, will follow your lead! I have lots of photos of the Harvard that I am modelling. So what happened, last update in Feb...I was reading along enjoying the blog then nothing...its like missing a whole season of GOT (not that I watched it) - just saying.
Dittos!
This thread has shown how to turn a junked, pile of crap, into a work of art.......I would love to see the final result! True craftsmanship here. I hope the OP poster is doing ok.
Thank you for showing how you do your magic!
Oct 21, 2019, 03:36 PM
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I'll get back to it soon, now that motorcycle-building weather is almost over...
Last edited by warhead_71; Oct 22, 2019 at 08:46 AM.
Nov 05, 2019, 09:45 PM
Registered User
I bought one at an auction last year.
Has OS 46 FX. With Pitts muffler. Flies great but my landings can use some work.
It had retracts that needed a bit of work. They broke the first three times I landed.
Here is a picture of I one of my better landings.

Still remember Buddy saying "There it goes..." when the wheel came off.
Nov 05, 2019, 09:56 PM
Registered User
So I fixed the retracts real good this time. Put a bunch of lumber and gorilla glue, epoxy, and anything else I could think of.

So I fixed it real good this time.......I hope.

If it breaks again I am going to repair and glass that area of the wing. Or strip it and put it into the fire.

Plane survived subsequent landing (pic) . Then got hung in my in laws Hangar. I'm going to let it cure for awhile before I test it again.
Nov 08, 2019, 11:12 AM
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I hope it works out for you... hoping I don't have similar issues with the retracts. I'm using electric retracts on mine, which have a smaller base than the standard ones... so I already added some reinforcement to that area to fill in the box. Also by eliminating the fiberglass cover and building up the wing-center I think that gives it a bit more structural integrity. We'll see.

Whatever you do, don't "put it in the fire"!!! I could always use the spare parts!
Nov 09, 2019, 09:53 AM
AeroDan
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Falcone
So I fixed the retracts real good this time. Put a bunch of lumber and gorilla glue, epoxy, and anything else I could think of.

So I fixed it real good this time.......I hope.

If it breaks again I am going to repair and glass that area of the wing. Or strip it and put it into the fire.

Plane survived subsequent landing (pic) . Then got hung in my in laws Hangar. I'm going to let it cure for awhile before I test it again.
NICE model!!! Texans FOREVER!!!
Nov 09, 2019, 06:07 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Consider partial dulling chrome moneycoat with green Scotchbrite (before covering). Mirror -like chrome looks awful IMHO. Scub gently both horizontally and vertically before covering. I used to have a needle type india ink pen for drawing very fine panel lines. It was made in Europe, brand was "Ko Hi Noor" or something.

I covered my Tritle C-140 with chrome Monokote , was grossed out with mirror look, scrubbed with Scotchbrite but framework etc. showed through. Would have looked better if covering was scrubbed before application. (Sorry this was repeat of previous reply)
Last edited by E-Challenged; Nov 11, 2019 at 10:19 AM.


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