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Feb 01, 2019, 11:09 AM
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Some very cool choices. Enee menee mynee moe.
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Feb 01, 2019, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbonut
I had one I sold recently. It is a super easy plane to fly. But like all T6 it will snap if you pull too hard on the elevator in a turn. I wouldn't bother with flaps as it doesnt need them. But if you want just for fun have at it...My T6 was my oldest most flights model..And it had a lot of life in it when I sold it
I'm still on the fence about the flaps. I was thinking... I could make some very simple split-flaps from aluminum flashing that just lay over the existing TE of the wing. Some flat nylon Dubro hinges epoxied one half to the inside of the flap, with the other half embedded perpendicular into balsa TE. I'd have to carve a shallow pocket for the hinge to lie flat, so the flaps are flush. I'd replace the hinge-pins with piano wire that runs the width and connects to the outer flaps as well. If I can countersink the wing bolts then the center flap would even cover over those. Food for thought.
Feb 01, 2019, 12:04 PM
jrb
jrb
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Added split flaps in a similar way on a FMS P-40.

Maybe just do the center (initially) like on the TF Contender:
Feb 02, 2019, 04:58 PM
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Working on rebuilding the wheel wells today. Repaired the main spar. Replaced the two ribs over the wheels. Reglued one of the hardwood LG mounting blocks.

Then I snapped my retract wire trying to bend them into shape. Too tight of a bend. I don't have the tool and was trying to bend it in between two carraige bolts in a vise. Drats.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 04, 2019 at 10:15 AM.
Feb 02, 2019, 09:24 PM
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A little progress. I got the wheel bumps built up from balsa blocks and the rest of it sheeted with a combination of 3/32" and 1/4" . I still need to cut the holes for the wheels and I'll build the "wells" from the leftover circles.

Still bummed about the retracts. Thinking I should just get electric ones instead.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 04, 2019 at 10:18 AM.
Feb 03, 2019, 02:44 PM
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Got the wheel holes both cut out. Countersunk the retract mounts so they'll lay flush. Sanded off all the Monokote residue and patched some more cracked sheeting I found. Cleaned up any gaps with balsa filler and sanded it smooth. The wing is about ready to cover now... it's solid and straight. The plastic wingtips had a few minor cracks that need repaired then I'll repaint those.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 03, 2019 at 03:00 PM.
Feb 03, 2019, 04:13 PM
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Nice clean repairs. Better than new and looking stronger. Still considering flaps?
Feb 03, 2019, 06:24 PM
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Yes flaps are still a consideration. I figure the simplest way to operate 3 flaps is to run a single arrowshaft transversely through the wing ribs with a bellcrank per flap, plus one for a servo. With an adjustable clevis at the flap I can fine-tune each independently.

With the wing ready for covering, I've moved on to the fuselage. Lots of cracks and lumpy patches in the cockpit sheeting and at the nose. I ended up replacing large sections of sheeting instead of making many small repairs. I'll add some stringers behind the sheeting to make it a bit stiffer. I sanded the fuselage to get rid of the residue and lot's of dents and scratches... got a little too thin in places so I'll add some 3/32" sheet behind it. Still a few more holes to fill and work to the nose, but she's looking okay.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 04, 2019 at 10:26 AM.
Feb 04, 2019, 12:09 PM
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Nice work
Latest blog entry: In flight
Feb 05, 2019, 12:02 AM
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Battery hatch done. Just needs the magnets. I'll add an antenna post for a handle.
Feb 05, 2019, 11:08 AM
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A million reference pics for cockpit "greeble" and panel lines... sorry for the info-overload. I'll be adding a torso-deep cockpit with lots of little buttons and knobs along the sides. With a canopy this large it's just begging for a bit of detail inside. A lot of variation in electronics and controls over the years so it won't be scale to any one plane in particular. Seats, roll-cage, joysticks, etc... all in a drop-in cockpit module that I can remove with couple of small screws. I'll want the canopy to be removable too... maybe some little magnets on the inner rails.

I also noticed that on some AT6's there is a "bulge" on the nose just in front/right of the windscreen. This corresponds to a cut-out in the top/right of the front instrument cluster. Looks to be a single machine-gun port. I'm guessing a Browning .30 cal by the size of it, but I cannot find any pics with a gun actually mounted. Anyone have a clue? *edit* I just answered my own question... the blueprint image shows the .30 cal in the top-view. And some of the side-views drawings show it too though not very clearly. I'd still like to find a photo reference with it installed. Not sure I'd even model the barrel sticking out since it would make it difficult to remove the battery hatch.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 05, 2019 at 12:28 PM.
Feb 05, 2019, 04:42 PM
AeroDan
God, now I REALLY want that 1/32nd KittyHawk Kit (KH32001)!!!! Texans FOREVER!!! Just the sound of those prop tips going super-sonic gives me a chill!!! Dan
Feb 06, 2019, 01:23 AM
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Didn't accomplish as much as I wanted tonight.

First, I fixed the used motor I purchased... I bought it with a broken shaft. Five 5mm shafts for $8 on Amazon, just had to file flat spots for the grub screws then cut it to length. Spins up great!... it's a really nice motor.

Then I started drawing out panel lines to figure out how I'll cover the fuselage. I added the gun blister on the nose. Added magnets to the battery hatch. Got the cowl mounted to the fuse.

Next I might add the little bit of wing filet. Then I need to finalize the retract installation. I found a solution for my snapped retract strut: Robart makes an axle adapter that just grub-screws to the wire. Makes it easy to adjust the length too. They're in the mail. $7 with shipping.

I also need to source a "compact" retract servo. A standard servo is too tall to fit in the space provided, and I don't think a mini servo has enough torque.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 06, 2019 at 12:20 PM.
Feb 06, 2019, 12:14 PM
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Sooooooo...... I just noticed that this is not the Himax 4220-770KV. It's the older 4220-620KV version.. I can't find many specs on it, but it came with the same ESC and motor-mount standoffs that come with the Multiplex Rockstar biplane.

With the lower KV I don't think I can run this motor unless I buy some 4S lipos -- it would have to swing too large a prop on 3S to make the thrust I need, and I won't have the ground clearance. I'll probably just go ahead and purchase the Value Hobby G32 800kv for $28... it's cheaper than a new 4S battery.

Or I could simply unwind the motor a turn or two... but I'm not sure it would handle the amps then.

Still the motor was not a bad purchase with the ESC, X-mount, and stand-offs for $20 + $8 to replace the shaft. It'll just have to go into a different plane. I have a partially framed-up Adrian Page 1/5 scale (60") GeeBee R2 @~6lbs that would need to swing a large prop around that cowl. I think this might be the perfect motor for it.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 19, 2019 at 02:12 PM.
Feb 08, 2019, 05:04 PM
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Slow afternoon at work... started working on the dummy "paper" Wasp JR engine. I scaled it down to 6.5" which is 1/8 scale for a P&W Wasp 1340... so not exactly the correct engine but it will look close enough under the cowl. A few assembly pics so you can see how it goes together. One cylinder down, 8 to go. Once it's all together I'll touch up the paper edges with a black Sharpie, and add some metal "wear" with a silver Sharpie. Then I'll spray the whole thing with clear acrylic gloss or shellac to seal it. Super lightweight and reasonable durable, or at least easily repairable. If I damage a cylinder, I can just print another!

I'll be doing cardstock seats as well, similar to the ones I did on my Stearman. And the Texan has lots of tube-frame structure that is visible in the cockpit... I'll probably roll some paper into "straws" to build a lightweight cockpit-frame and roll-cage as well.
Last edited by warhead_71; Feb 21, 2019 at 09:37 AM.


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