A spot for questions about the new Pitts...

Thanks Joel. Recommendations on how many 3/4" CA hinges to use with this aileron ?



Bill S.

You should take a couple pics with the hinges sitting in place on top of one aileron (both 3 & 4 hinges), along with the ruler - so I can get an idea regarding the space between 'em.


Joel

Sorry Joel, I think you asked me that. Here ya go.

Bill S.

Hmm...

I'm thinking that 3 per aileron should do it. How thick is the root of the aileron? Also - how many hinges per aileron from the factory?

Originally Posted by turboparker

Hmm...

I'm thinking that 3 per aileron should do it. How thick is the root of the aileron? Also - how many hinges per aileron from the factory?

No hinges from the factory just full lenght EPO foam that has had reports of control surface seperations. Root, if it's the same as a heli I assume the thick part. .333" or 8.5mm. Pic attached of partof the factory hinge but that runs full length. Plan is to cut the AILE's off and CA hinge only.

Next question. The rudder won't be as simple as the ELEV was to do. The tail LG pivot's between the fuse and the rudder and is joined to both pieces. Cutting the rudder off wouldn't be my first choice unless you think that top piece of LG wire bent at a 90 slides out of the rudder. I'm thinking just running a thin coat of FoamTac down both sides of the hinge and brush it thin for reinforcement. Comments, other recommendations ???

If the aileron root is nearly 1/3" thick, 3 hinges per aileron should definitely do the trick. Go with 2 on each side of the elevator. Regarding the rudder - I know that some are using FoamTac. Not sure if they're just brushing it on, or if they're cutting the elevator off the stab & then butt-joining it to the stab with FoamTac.

I'd think that brushing it on thick enough to add sufficient strength to matter would make the rudder pretty stiff. I'd probably bite the bullet & cut the rudder off. Might as well have ca hinges all the way around, so you'll never have to worry about hinge failure again.

Originally Posted by turboparker

If the aileron root is nearly 1/3" thick, 3 hinges per aileron should definitely do the trick. Go with 2 on each side of the elevator. Regarding the rudder - I know that some are using FoamTac. Not sure if they're just brushing it on, or if they're cutting the elevator off the stab & then butt-joining it to the stab with FoamTac.

I'd think that brushing it on thick enough to add sufficient strength to matter would make the rudder pretty stiff. I'd probably bite the bullet & cut the rudder off. Might as well have ca hinges all the way around, so you'll never have to worry about hinge failure again.

That was my thought with the FoamTac and these A330 Spektrum servos aren't really impressing me either. Have a look again at the circled area in this pic. That piece circled that looks like molding that connects the two pieces is in fact paint, I slid a Xacto through it.

So, the final question remaining... The top of the LG wire that is bent at a 90' and into the horn. Do you think that will just slip out of the plastic once the rudder is cut off ??? This is my reservation about cutting the rudder off. If you think it will come apart so I can line up the hinges I would prefer to have CA all around as you recommended as well.

Thank's for all your patience Joel.



Bill S.

Just paint, 'eh? Damn...

I'd expect that the tailwheel wire should slide out of that molded plastic part, once the rudder is cut free from the stab. Not 100% sure, though. (I don't actually have an 850mm Pitts.)

Question: How many people have reported problems with the factory rudder hinging? If hardly anyone has reported issues with the rudder, maybe you're better-off leaving it alone. On the other hand - if others have had to re-hinge the rudder, somebody must know if the tailwheel wire slides out.

Joel

Any updates?

Hi Joel. Got busy and had to take a break from it. I can't thank you enough for your guidence and experience. I know it's hard to recommend things like cutting the rudder when it's not in your hands to look at. You were right about the tail wheel wire. All the surfaces are now done and came out quite well for a first attempt at these hinges. I bought a Dubro guide and slotting tool set but doing by hand with just a Xacto proved to be easiest and most accurate. The 3/4" fork was useful as a guide for the opposite surface so not a total loss on buying the slot kit. Waiting for some Dubro solder on clevise's in the post today and I can start building tonight or tomorrow. Some have reported the stock ones breaking. With the mods the airframe won't be coming apart, at least in the air.

Thanks again, so much Joel. I really appreciate it.



Bill S.

Cool! Great to hear that everything worked out. Nice closeup shots, too. Glad I could be of help. Give me a shout anytime if you have more questions.

Good luck with the maiden! Hope you shoot some video & post it!

Joel