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Dec 08, 2019, 11:08 AM
Essex
Yes EndoDuskin, I see that too now. I still prefer it with my Futaba transmitter though, the better pitch/throttle curves have made it a lot more flyable, doesn't seem quite so wild.

I did try this test: when I give it full rudder in either direction the swash doesn't move. Still doesn't explain the piro comp problem though, probably going over to the K110 board. I did also try flying without the red cover over the gyro board: no difference.
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Dec 08, 2019, 11:06 PM
Registered User
@ Electrev

Could it be vibration problem? I know that even the K110 gyro is not very forgiving with vibs. This means both the main and the tail blades should be vibs free.
Dec 09, 2019, 05:04 AM
Essex
Worth checking: I have never balanced the blades. Will give it a try. How do you balance the tail prop? I know how to balance blades/props generally, but I've never balanced something as small as that before.
Last edited by Electrev; Dec 09, 2019 at 05:12 AM.
Dec 09, 2019, 07:28 AM
Registered User
it could be bent feathering shaft as well. I remember it did happened many times with my 2s K110. As soon the fs bent, the tail went cookoo with throttle increased.
Dec 09, 2019, 09:59 AM
Essex
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptern
it could be bent feathering shaft as well. I remember it did happened many times with my 2s K110. As soon the fs bent, the tail went cookoo with throttle increased.
I have bent the feathering shaft a couple of times...badly. At this minute it is running with a brand new feathering and main shaft, still does it.
Dec 09, 2019, 06:12 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrev
.... How do you balance the tail prop? I know how to balance blades/props generally, but I've never balanced something as small as that before.
I use this method to balance my tail props:

How to Balance Tiny Whoop Propeller Blades (4 min 47 sec)
Dec 10, 2019, 01:10 AM
Registered User
Ptern
How much do your ships weigh?
They must be good in wind as they are heavier that the standard ship
Dec 10, 2019, 04:58 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by NX-687
Ptern How much do your ships weigh?
See attached pics
Quote:
They must be good in wind as they are heavier that the standard ship
Holding was quite good (both stability and tail) in moderate wind but not gale force.
Dec 11, 2019, 01:36 AM
Registered User

Worn out inner swashplate


Quote:
Originally Posted by EndoDuskin
This video shows my attempts to get the K130 flying again. I've had a bad time with this model, and it's flying now with the original FBL and ESC and some reflective tape for visibility (Liberace livery) ... but when I start any kind of piro it falls back and to the right. IF it's inverted, I can piro all day without any fear of it sliding sideways.

The gyro chip is stuck to the board with double stick tape and is not flopping around like some people have reported is the cause of a similar issue.

I'm thinking of replacing the board with a K110 receiver instead like PTERN has reported. I've already got about $220 in this silly model if you count the metal gear servos and extra parts I've had to buy ... but for some reason it's kind of fun to try and get it flying or find a mod.

PTERN you should post some more info about what you've been doing to get this model set up with direct drive ! Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ULTlJNa30U
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrev
Mine is exactly the same! I can't fly inverted, but too scared to try any piros now, it's all over the place. I can piro two complete turns with my K110, easy! I've also been toying with the idea of using the K110 receiver in my K130. My radio is X6, only flying in 6G.
I too experienced a similar situation today and also the heli was jumping up off the ground when it got light on the skid. I came home thinking main shaft or feathering shaft. Broke down the head and FS looked ok. Pull the the MS and that looked ok. Decided to change both and while sliding the MS through the swash I noticed the inner portion of the swashplate attach to the buckles and helper links (don't know the true name) tilted. So, I put it all together to see if that was causing the issues and bingo. With the the cyclic close to center or center the inner portion of the swash would tilt making the inner swash un-level changing the pitch on the blades and as the cyclic increase it would snap back level until the cyclic gets close to center and the same thing all over again. Looking at swashplate closer, I noticed that the flair for the bottom of the inner swash keeping it tight against the bearing has worn out thus making that inner portion free to move and tilt. Don't have a replacement swash so I will work on it when I get the chance.

Maybe the same issue could be affecting your helis.

Ric...
Dec 11, 2019, 01:50 AM
Slideways at warp speed.......
kiwi_craig's Avatar
Thread OP
adding to Ric's good assessment, I've also observed a degree of bearing float in some of the XK billet swashes, basically there seems to be excessive play in the actual bearing ball race which removes the precision - tightness of the assembly......... which is kind why you want all the billet parts to start with..... hamstrung by a sloppy swash bearing....... upside down the entire weight of the heli is transferred down through the swash keeping it all loaded, right way up and it s hanging from the bearing and slop reacts through the swash and bearing. ?

check the swash bearing for vertical float - play ....... one of mine is a real shocker....... time to check for replacement bearings.....
Dec 11, 2019, 08:57 AM
Registered User
very good info KC & Ric.
Dec 11, 2019, 09:43 AM
Registered User
Thanks for that info people. I remember my K130 had an issue with its metal swash bearing popping out once, and I forced it back in, then used needlenose pliers to bend the edges underneath it, forcing it to stay put. Maybe it's not straight ... I think I have a replacement swash somewhere so I'll try swapping that out and take some photos of the original to see how it looks.

EDIT: I added photos of current swash. It's ugly but it looks straight. But when compared to the new one, it looks pretty bad, haha. I'm going to take this K130 apart and pull a PTERN engineer session on it ...
Last edited by EndoDuskin; Dec 11, 2019 at 10:50 AM.
Dec 11, 2019, 05:48 PM
Essex
Quote:
Originally Posted by elub
I use this method to balance my tail props:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HRdMCE540M
Thanks, got it.
Dec 11, 2019, 09:43 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndoDuskin
Thanks for that info people. I remember my K130 had an issue with its metal swash bearing popping out once, and I forced it back in, then used needlenose pliers to bend the edges underneath it, forcing it to stay put. Maybe it's not straight ... I think I have a replacement swash somewhere so I'll try swapping that out and take some photos of the original to see how it looks.

EDIT: I added photos of current swash. It's ugly but it looks straight. But when compared to the new one, it looks pretty bad, haha. I'm going to take this K130 apart and pull a PTERN engineer session on it ...
I caught mines just in time before it separated. I used some 680 green loctite with a dental pick to make mine solid with no play. I was careful not to get any on the bearings. I feel it will be stronger than it was stock. Will let it cure for 24hrs and test in a couple days.

Ric...
Dec 12, 2019, 06:39 PM
Registered User

8mm Boom and Wrap Skid


Updated photos of my k130. A while back I busted the boom and no replacement, so, I had some 8mm cf..... I like it so does the k130. After seeing Ptern busted skid I wrap my skid with dental floss and CA and never bust a skid to date. Changing out the main esc and adding brushless tail and mg servo then the k110 board was the icing on the cake with positive results. Having a jumper t16 also makes it a lot more enjoyable. AUW went up, but, you will never notice when flying. I get 3 and a half min with tattu 450mah and 5 min with stock lipo. I never use accelerometer only 3 axis or 3g.

Ric...


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