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Jan 19, 2019, 04:22 PM
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Looks great! I’m also an inexperienced modeller and enjoy reading through a blog about the same problems I run into.
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Jan 21, 2019, 04:18 PM
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I'm glad I can participate in some mutual mistakes with you!

I have a question for the experienced. The model has, as you can see in photos, been glassed and another layer of epoxy was applied to the entire hull so that any fiberglass that was showing/printing through is no longer. I then sanded to 1: blend the bow into the hull as there is about an 1 1/2" of overlap, this is the only place I sanded into glass. 2: take out the high spots as much as possible without sanding into glass. I now have many low spots and a moderately fair surface.

Should I apply a 3rd coat of epoxy, or go straight to Bondo, or some other preferred filler?
Jan 21, 2019, 06:08 PM
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I would go to bondo. You do not need the strength of the epoxy. Do the best you can with bondo, then primer, then paint.
Jan 21, 2019, 06:57 PM
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Excellent, thanks.
Jan 21, 2019, 10:36 PM
boat butcher
the goon's Avatar
Originally Posted by J Mitchel
I would go to bondo. You do not need the strength of the epoxy. Do the best you can with bondo, then primer, then paint.

Jan 24, 2019, 09:53 AM
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Work continues, I would do well to remember my Father's words; "every gram of [bondo] you put on is a gram of [bondo] you have to sand off." Boy was he right! Other than an overzealous application it is coming out very well. I'm very happy with where it is at.

CAD of the superstructure is tedious, it is a very faceted structure and I'm relying on a combination of reference photos and illustrations. The basic shape is coming together nicely and without compounding compromises. I'll soon be scratching my head on some of the features I would like to include in the structure like lighting and fpv. That lighting thread is very informative, I would not have though to use enameled wire. I'm also deciding if I would like a dynamic turret or KISS and leave the gun static.
Jan 24, 2019, 12:21 PM
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Krinje- I would look into using the Polyester Glazing Putty instead of the BONDO for filling. The glazing putty sands very easily and it sands to a feather edge. You can coat over it with both epoxy and polyester resins or go directly to primer and paint.
Jan 25, 2019, 04:28 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion it's on order now, boy they sure don't give it away. I can see this coming in very handy and much easier to apply on the superstructure.

On that note, does anyone know what this boxy object is? (see fig 1 circled in red). There are two of them next to each other and finding clear photographs of the area behind the bridge and in front of the first stack is next to impossible. Knowing what it is may help me search much more specifically for it. CAD is starting into the details, so naturally it becomes harder to resolve exactly what I'm looking at.
Jan 28, 2019, 08:47 AM
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Ah-ha! I found an excellent picture, and it really reveled what these are! They are the storage for the signal flags!

Not much to report from this weekend unfortunately. I just tinkered with a few small things and tried to make a few final decisions.
Jan 30, 2019, 01:20 PM
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I never did upload a photo after the bondo massacre, so here it is.
I just did the rudders up in with the glazing putty that was recommended, much easier to work with thanks for the recommendation!

I came to realize that I had not planned in any way a to transfer thrust from the shaft to the boat, Oh the folly! I overlooked it on assumption the motor takes up the axial load, but with my configuration that isn't true at all and I need a bearing to transfer the thrust. Ideally this would have been printed as part of the hull like the motor mounting base itself, since it is not I have to kludge in a bearing mount. This will not be a mistake I repeat in a future boat.

More CAD work on the Superstructure, one detail at a time. The major structures are done so now I'm selecting major details to include. Minor details will be added in reality in a more traditional fashion.
Feb 03, 2019, 01:47 PM
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I settled on the size of my bilge keels in a practical and aesthetic sense. They are over scale, slightly longer and deeper. I'd prefer that she look more scale in the water and less like a bath toy. In that regard I'm fine with sacrificing scale on the keels and the rudders. I did not however want it them to look odd or out of place proportionally.
Feb 03, 2019, 03:20 PM
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Looks amazing!
Feb 05, 2019, 11:39 PM
Just Limin'
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Haven't been on the site in a few days and just checking in, looks good. You beat me to your own answer about the boxes being flag storage lockers.

Feb 08, 2019, 10:10 AM
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Sending the aft super structure to the printer today. I've taken great care to reduce weight as I understand that models of military ships can be sensitive to mass above the water. Rather than the standard 3d printing method of infilling, I have very deliberately hollowed the structure and cut it into separate pieces. It has in most places 1mm walls (.039") Estimated weight of 90 grams, which seems pretty good to me. This and the other stack house have mountings for 30mm fans. Hopefully that will provide adequate airflow for the electronics.

I had a friend walk me through some silver soldering, I forgot to take pictures of the result. I'll update this post when I take some pictures later today. My shaft tubes now have a greasing nipple.

I'm stumped on railings. This will be a lovingly abused model, one I intend to sail very often. I don't want to spend the next day fixing railings but it would look naked without them. I also don't know any good methods for railings, or what my options may be here. Suggestions are very welcome.

Edit: Thanks for the kind words! Always nice to know you guys like the build.
Edit: Added Photos
Last edited by Krinje; Feb 09, 2019 at 11:12 AM.
Feb 11, 2019, 09:54 PM
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Success! I did a quick test of my bridge lighting plan today, after a few failures I landed on this design. It will hold 5 red and 5 yellow 3mm LEDs per side to illuminate the 'windows' of the bridge in either night or day lighting. My test pictures here are with 1 red LED. The camera makes the brightness a bit out of whack, it diffuses the color fairly well, enough that 5 of them per side will be more than adequate. That LED is running at 10ma, I suspect closer to 5 will be sufficient.

The material is printed translucent PETG, sandwiched in aluminium foil.

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